Conor

Our first floor is all vaulted. We formed two service voids, each going up through the two bathrooms for the soil ipes, but continued they on up to the ceiling for the 6 ventilation ducts. We then simply have a shallow dropped ceiling under the ridge (ridge steels need to be boxed in anyway) that gives us the space for ducts and plenums. Still ahve 3m+ ceilings, just the ridges flattened off. MVHR is essential in an ICF build. We had walls dripping with condensation before we got ours up and running. Humidity now a thing of the past.

Does the therompro store the data in the unit and you just need to be connected to download? I had something similar from meross but the unit doesn't have any internal storage, so if it loses connection with the hub, it's useless. The the battery lasted less than a year and it's an £5 replacement. I see this uses a single AAA.

Mine had a light build up after about two years use. Nothing that warranted taking it apart and most of it was on the grill.

Don't even consider putting UFH on an uninsulated slab. Do as nick says, and forget about UFH in the old part. Put a couple rads in.

Not for the main build - I had a contractor in to do all the main works and under the CDM rules he assumed role of contractor. I was client. I assumed role of contractor/designer along with client when the main build ended and I was getting individual trades in and paying them directly. Make sure you get this all agreed in writing when the main works start. So anybody on site working is your builder's responsibility.

Exactly. This almost caught me out. All works must be supervised... So I had to make sure anybody coming on site not only had their own insurance, but were self sufficient and only needed drawings / spec etc. I wanted to employ a labourer directly but couldn't as I'd be supervising them and then assume a load of responsibilities and liabilities. Got around it by the spark employing him. Your self build insurance will be setout in a similar way and may not cover you for works you direct as competency is questionable.

300mm would be the modern minimum, in our last house I upped it to 400mm. I'd get someone in to lay another 200mm on top. It'll make a big difference. B&Q often has 3 for 2 offers on earthwool rolls and is generally the cheapest.

You'll just need an inspection point every 22mts, depending on situation. And one within 12m of the public connection. I'm assuming you own all the land and have enough fall etc. This is Northern Ireland btw. Check your applicable BC documents.

My spark did up a single page safety test certificate. NCICS template I think. Standard stuff. Has all the details on it.

The OP is in Northern Ireland, which of course has its own version of CDM which is different from the GB one. Mostly the same, but main one is CDM obligations apply to ALL construction projects - in wording anyway, practical reality is a bit different. @CalvinHobbes I reccomemded you have a chat with Charlene Meeke who can do a site audit, provide document templates, guodence. Think that only cost a couple hundred quid I think. It'll still take you a bit of time to get your documents etc. Come to think of it, I'm done with all my site signage, yours free to collect if you want.

You're not a notifiable project. Re demolition, ensure the contractor has demolition cover as I can guarantee you your own self build won't.

Yes. This is what I actually used to try and bleed it. Rotated the drain round so it was pointing up and opened it slightly, with a basin underneath to capture the liquid. I can't run water again through these as the system is filled with antifreeze, and I don't fancy shelling out for more! I'll try the pump on full and turn all the loops off and try it one at a time.

Our joiner used cheap ass silicone and nailed with finishing nail gun. Decorators were able to easily cover the small holes with caulk. They all look bang on.

Ours.

We hadn't planned to, but we ended up with a flashy, flush aluminium front door from Internorm. I think it's 0.6 or something. It's weird having a front door that's stone cold and condenses / frosts up on the outside but is warm and dry on the inside. Think it was £4k on the schedule including the side light glazing. Edit. Door element is 0.78, sidelight glazing is 0.6.

1.5bar. nothing on the pumps about air bleeding. There's an automatic air valve on the high point between the ASHP and buffer. That's it tho. I'll see about fitting one upstairs as well. I need to fiddle with some pipework so I'll do it at the same time. I attempted the bleeding when the system was fully running and the circulating pump on min. I'll try it now with everything off and cold.

Hi. I've a fiar bit of air circulating through the first floor loops. Ground and basement are perfect. I've opened the bleed valve on the top of the manifold... Took out a good 2l of fluid and some air. But there's still a fair bit of air circulating around. Any tips? Main pump on/off? Manifold pump on/ off? System hot or cold?

They are nowhere near as loud as you think. And it's a white/ continuous noise so not anyway annoting. Fit it as is, of there are issues down the line, then address them.

You need proper hanswashing facilities and a place for people sit and eat etc. We had portaloo and a separate caravan that was the office. The main thing is lots of signage and documentation. Need to write down who is designer, contractor and client. And a H&S plan, emergency procedures etc.

Start by digging out all the mud and replacing it with clean stone. And what is the down pipe draining in to? A gully or just the ground?

Check that the condensate drain is clear and working. Could be condensation from the heat exchanger building up and finding the easiest way out. When was the last time you changed the filters and checked the heat exchanger?

When you think about it, mositure resistant PB isn't even needed over standard if you've got your tanking right.

Lindab airy. Fully open position.

1. Building regs min flows to rooms is based on an average for the whole floor area, not per room basis. So you don't need 11lps for the living room. Increase the flow rates to other rooms and reduce this rooms rates. 2. Can you straighten the duct runs to the kitchen extract? This will be your highest flow rate run and you need it to be straight and short 3. Bedroom plenums are in the wrong location, esp master. Need to be right in the far corner to generate the right flow paths. With that current design, you won't be refreshing the air at all above the bed. It'll go straight to the ES extract point. 4. I'd always reccomend a bigger unit than needed, but saying that I've had to dial my unit back so much that it wouldn't make any difference if if got the model below, other than saving myself £200. 5. Running the ducts will compromise your overall insulation but probably not enough to worry about. How are you making the boundary between the living space and loft airtight? 6. BC airtightness requirement are a joke. Even the now one here of 5ac/hr is poor. You want a design assumption of 3ac/hr and hope to get 1ac/hr. 7. Don't forget you'll need a condensate trap and drain for the unit. But you're right above a bathroom so 5ha5 should be easy. 8. For runs over 7-10m you'll need to double them up if using 75mm ducting.

You can do a concrete slab pour no bother in freezing weather, just need some sort of insulating cover (Hessian, carpet, loose straw etc) while it cures. Curing cement generates heat, if you cover it, it'll stay warm enough to cure properly and not freeze. Sounds like you've insulation underneath which is much better than a pour directly on ground. Oh, you don't want two layers of dpm, or you'll just trap moisture permenantly.