Conor

I have the DeWalt as well. Had a couple cheaper Chinese 5hings from Amazon that had loads of features but the robustness of a dry leaf. Killed two before getting the DeWalt. I then got the laser receiver and mated it to a 25 x 50mm batten and now I've got a levelling kit.

I just phone them and spoke to the local sales rep. But then I was spending £2k+ as was getting a load of galvanised ducting and all my air valves, grills, silencers etc from them.

I paid £150+ vat from Lindab.

Looks like we'll be keeping our £10 B&Q ding dong unit then.

So what happens when somebody pushes the doorbell button? A notification on your phone?!

I'm thinking this is a case of a build not matching the claimed specification. 1c loss per hour is a lot for a band B house. Was their an airtightness test done on each unit? Are there any noticeable cold spots on walls, any gaps around windows? How does the insulation in the loft look?

None if your building is two floors or less. Good practice tho to seal any penetrations between floors etc. A lot of units will have a fire damper option, you'd need to connect whatever terminal there is for the function to your smoke alarms.

How quickly do the rooms cool down if the heating is turned off?

Good punt lads. Will check in again in a week to see if they work or if you've bought £100 bricks.

Weak points in a bifold are the frames and sealing. Get overall u value and ask what class wind / water ingress protection they have. Btw, the price you have is very good ... Not sure if that means a low spec product or not. For comparison our solarlux 4.6m bi-folds were £10k+

I'm waiting for the reolink as well as I have a load of their cameras already. I asked on twitter and they have no planned date to bring to the UK. Was originally Sept last year. I'm going to see if you can get one from Amazon in Europe. Might be comparability issues as I know some of their services are region based... And UK is not included in some.

Rough guess, £130k. That's based on a laying rate of £100/m for 160mm PVC, 10x MHs at £1k each, £10k for traffic management and £10k for design and management, and 20% uncertainty / contingency. Assumes no water course crossings, private land, deep excavations, utility diversions or difficult ground conditions. Those rates above are from a few years ago and from a large framework supplier so I'm not sure how realistic....

Take photos just in case. They'll be more interested in the drainage around the house and under driveways etc

Just FYI you'll need BC out to inspect before you fully backfill. They need to see depths and adequate bedding etc.

Runnat original depth. Bear in mind minimum cover for building control. Also, a deeper pipe is less likely to be struck in future. Also allows you to run other services on TOP, in the same tewmxh, if needed.

No, stud walls, so fitted in the usual safe zones. Radial system so minimal joins in ceilings / walls, and I know where they all are! Had a couple main service voids and ran pipes up these alongside the ventilation risers etc. For our sink, pipes came up from below as it was suspended floor, but we did get the kitchen company to leave a 40mm device void at back of the units. Only of use if your units go right to 5he ceiling... Might be better off battening out the entire wall instead.

Yes, all in the void, that's why it's there 🤣 Nobody ever commented on this, BC, architect, plumbers, SE...

Don't use 35mm battens, just double up 25mm ones so you have 50mm. Also cheaper as you can order a big job lot of 25x50 and not risk running out and have less wastage.

No noise from our aluminium sills - one is 3m long and water landing on it from two stories above. And they are deeper than standard due to the extra 100mm EWI. They do seem to splash back on to the glass, not sure if that's specific to aluminium but certainly more than I've noticed on other buildings with concrete sills. They are really, thick, heavy sills laid on a full bed of foam / EPS.

We've the same size house (355m² gross, 315m² net), and our 9kW heatpump is more than up to the job. Floor U value 0.1, walls 0.12-0.15, roof 0.15, 3G throughout, airtightness 1.7ach. that's not exactly ultimate spec or performance compared to some here, but mucher higher than regs. We need your numbers. Glazing and airtightness matter a lot as well as just all I sualtion.

Are there trickle vents in 5h3 windows? I'm assuming not. We lived in an apartment like this, got the landlord to replace the three knackered extractor fans, and I left a couple of windows open on the second position and issues went away.

All of ours are just off 3A fused spurs. The elements are typically about 100W. You're not meant to use water in these things.. meant to be deionised water and glycol mix. For expansion, I'd just leave a bit of air in. @Gone West suggestion is good.

We've similar heat load in a 315m2 house and have a 9kW heat pump and does fine (even now, only on 7hours per day to keep the house at 18-19c). On paper a 5kW would do the job but tbh it would really have struggled in this cold weather. In your case a 5/6kW pump would do the job, if you hit the PH standards.

I can't remember, partner took care of it. All I remember is it cost twice as much as normal underlay! It might sound drastic, but you could look in to putting insulation in your celing void and doing some filling work where the joists enter the external wall. You might end up with a lot of ceilings to patch up and paint, but you'll reduce you heat loss and get more out of your UFH.

I think you've summed it up well, lots of heat going down in to the ceiling void and then going tho knows where. Was the carpet and underlay rated for UFH? We have that and heat transfer isn't an issue. MVHR won't make a difference, all extract air goes out the building through the heat exchanger and then fresh air in to the house... So the air tha is distributed is slightly cooler than the average temp of the extracted air. So want warm anything