Conor

How do you heat your water? If you've an ASHP then a immersion diverter is near to pointless. If you can heat your water off peak / solar battery power then you might find selling back to the grid makes more sense. It does for me, as I buy in at 10p off peak and sell back at 8.5p. efficiency of the ashp means heating water costs less than 5p per kWh. Then factor in £200+ for a diverter.

Have you considered doing it yourself / individual trades? E.g. the roof trays are easy to install (you, roofer or joiner), the panels then drop in to place, optimisers are plug in. Then you just need a competent spark to connect it all together. I did it this way and my 5.2pkW system came in at under £5k installed. (No batteries).

Looks good, a lot better than some of the so called professional jobs posted here, but a couple concerns. That inner angle point at the seam, I think the lead will eventually split along that point. Think I see a crack already. At the same area, you'd want another piece of lead under to fully cover the flat roof piece right back to where you have chased in the main peice, again, to reinforce that vulnerable inner angle bend. Finally, the vertical bit that's bent down over the edge of the roof is a bit short and there's a risk that lift up. Easily solved with some stixall.

No, 50mm is absolutely fine, it's what we have throughout our house. Go for 50mm + 100mm PIR + 50mm liquid screed. Well taped, gaps filled, no rocking boards.

My money is on the preheater being on at the same time as some sort of bypass (outdoor air being preheated, but then bypassing the exhnager and going back outside, somehow, possibly a partially open bypass damper). I know my unit can have different scenarios depending on conditions, from full summer bypass, partial, full internal bypass or a mix of the two. Once outdoor temp rises enough to not need the preheater, then things return to normal. Either way, some sort of sensor issue.

You could just stick in a duct with draw rope for now.

You can forget about UFH on an uninsulated slab. May as well take your cash outside and set fire to it.

E.g. long radius / rest bends. And if you have leftovers you can use them underground, but not the other way round if you use black/grey stuff.

Yes, as long as not exposed to sunlight.

I don't think so. As I've posted before, add up all the costs of the shuttering shading and convert that to electric use for ASHP cooling. For us it was like £6k, which translates to several hundred days of (PV assisted) cooling. Works really well for us* *Being in northern Ireland, hottest we've experienced is 27-30c for about a week. When we were running the ashp for cooling, we were still exporting PV overall, so I'm assuming cost is nominal.

I'd say this considerably more expensive than UFH. It seems to be flat radiators that are mounted in a ceiling or wall. Going by the photos, more equipment and more labour than UFH. Interesting to know tho.

I feel cold just reading that! Yeah, but you should be comparing to the average modern standard. You want to be better than that. Re bi-folds... Be very wary of these esp the weather and air ingress ratings. We spent a lot getting a good spec model from solarlux. How big are they? You should have solar gain modelled. Oh, and a good quality triple glazed units will reduce solar gain compared to standard double glazed unit.

I've half a roll in my shipping container that looks just the same as it did when I got it over a year ago.

How many openings do you have and how big are they? Drawings would help as well as screenshot of window spec, e.g.

The size of the window makes a HUGE difference as it's usually the frame that's the weakest part. While the glass we had has a centre pane u value of 0.6, most windows average out at 0.8-0.9. Out of interest, who are you going with?

Spend a bit more and get triple glazed or a better window system, if not too late. You really don't want to be scraping minimum standards. What's your overall building heatloss? Estimated EPC? We have a LOT of glass and the worst unit is 0.9 (bi-folds) and it's noticeably chillier in this room than other parts of the house. Windows are the weakest thermal element in a building and need the most attention.

Centre it. Our architect taught us to prioritise the feel and look room by room, rather than the building as a whole from the outside.yoy spend a lot, lot more time living in a space, than looking at it from the outside. We positioned skylights to be central within rooms, rather than uniform across the roof from the outside. Best approach as hardly noticeable from the outside.

Two late 1800s semis down the road from me. Obvious which one had loft insulation, and which one didn't. Either that or the house with all the frost and snow on just don't run their heating as hot as the other house .. Took this pic last year of a new build built same time as us.

Anything with speckles. Grey and red for example. We have a quartz worktop and no issues with staining. E.g. even tumeric and oil wipe off easily.

This is how I have mine setup, plumbers thought it was standard enough, but in my head it doesn't make sense. It means that the water going back to the unit is fully cool, with no blending with the warmer water, so a really big ∆T But it seems to work ok so I've not touched it...

We're on economy 7 overnight tariff. Approaching a full year and I've it setup to run only in this time. I'll take some meter readings and see how it's working out. However, I know most of our use is likes of the dishwasher and washer dryer. It's more of a challenge to used that stuff off peak than the heating. If you go down this route, you have to shift most of your usage to the off-peak time. Think about how this would work for you. If you've an electric car tho, no brainer.

You'd rarely have the name / type of equipment stamped on the MH cover. Purely because they are a stock item and can be moved easily. It's either the name of the lid manufacture or the water company.

We used those concrete screws, but 100mm long. You need a bit more depth. Also expanding foam the whole way round.

How are you going to run your services? E.g. MVHR ducts and electrics? We went for a panel roof (thermohouse) and battened down 50mm to make the void. You need even more for spot lights.

I had this as well, for some reason inspection chambers only seem to come with half the stoppers you normally need. I just nround the concrete I was setting the chamber on, in through the open ports and troweled back at an angle. They are all above the main channel so it's more about keeping stuff out of the chamber, rather than in.