Conor

Is there a bypass between the flow and return loops? Sounds same as the issue we had on a gas boiler, bypass valves had failed in open position, meaning hot water was returning directly to the boiler and causing it to lockout after a few minutes.

You could put down a sheet of 70mm compact foam on the beam floor, then ~115mm screed locally, then tiled finish. That's basically what I did as a base for my 300L HWC.

Plant room way too big. Agree, utility too small, move the WV and take space from one of your three large rooms. Hall is too narrow. You've two large windows facing in to a car port?

If you are lining with OSB, then noggins are redundant. Noggins are there to stop the studs twisting and deflecting from vertical load. The OSB will do this instead, and then some! Find him something else to keep him busy!

This is a huge big bear for me. Our glazing spec was 17 pages, to the layman, gibberish. Buried somewhere, was an incorrect RAL number. Also three units that should have been toughened, but weren't. Nobody spotted it. Luckily we had email correspondence requesting the colour and confirmation, and drawings showing need for toughened units. Window company didn't argue and sent somebody out to spray the frame the correct colour and fit replacement units. To the OP, I'd argue back saying it's unreasonable to confirm technical details beyond your knowledge, and that the error is gross and obvious that suggests incompetence!

If you're building a timber deck, you need to allow a good 100mm underneath for ventilation, so you'll need to dig that out. Might be better off just paving it.

Ran mine straight to the cameras connector fly lead. Then just tucked up in the fascia void.

I remember the day I had to put in ~500 30mm nails through joist brackets with a hammer and limited access. Was a good year ago. My arm is still sore and I get flashbacks.

Thing is, once you have flow rates set, you won't have any cold or warm spots. That's the whole advantage of loving in a PH spec house. Either way, I wouldn't make any dramatic changes yet as I do think this high consumption is mostly drying out. Tho that one zone that calls for heat all the time when others don't might be worth tweaking down a bit so it doesn't call so much.

Which is why you run systems like this as a single zone (or zone per floor) rather than individual room stats. You probably don't want to hear this, but might be best ditching all the room stats and luxone stuff, and running it simpler. We've three floors, separated into two zones, runs on a manual timer (with one stat set to 21c, only in mild weather does it hit this) for 18hours a day on weather comp. I never need to think about it and I never notice when it's running or not.

(you can convert PDFs to DWGs but process is not perfect and there might be a lot of tidying up and rework, you might find new architect might want to redraw regardless, especially if there are going to be changes)

Nope, none at all. Might want a fee.

Well, yes I suppose lol!! What I mean is it's a pain in the arse and depends on the depth of beam, positioning, and the type of ICF block and it's webbing. The method we used was fast and low risk. With the 203x203 beam, it's wider than the cavity and leaves no webbing in the block.

Check their weather / airtightness certifications. Looks like it has triple seals, same as our internorm.

Or you could have a floating LVT system on 2mm foam underlay. Easier and cheaperjob all round.

That detail is not constructable as there will be nothing keeping the blocks together as you've effectively turned them in to two flat lengths of EPS. You put concrete to the level the beam will set, set the beam on, then build up the rest of the ICF around/over it. You then come back and fix insulation around the beam.

Yeah, stick a compression end cap on and start filling with water in stages.

It takes a long time to dry out a house. And a lot of energy. Do you have your final air tightness test result and have your PH certification? However, I do think the heatpump is undersized. We're 315m², same assumed heat load of 15W/m², and have a 9kW heatpump. We used 20kWh on the worst winter days, including working from home, washing machine etc etc. The pump they've installed will mean it needs to be on 24x7 in the coldest weather and not much room left for hot water. How many people are in the house and so you use much hot water? Other than that, we really need to know the timings schedule, control scheme etc. The time it takes for hot water to arrive at the tap is purely a function of the length of pipe, diameter and flow rate. A large pipe over long distance will take longer to flow than a small pipe over a short distance. How involved in the build wee you? Do you know the type of plumbing system, diameter of pipe and the route the pipes running ? Sounds like we're talking a good 30m+ run for your hot water pipe.

If all window fitters stuck to this 10mm rule, there would hardly be a window installed in the country.

Aerogel is horrible to work with.

Assume 100mm cavity? Then greyEPS bonded beads, job done.

You need a small inspection chamber. The main stack will connect in via a long radius rest bend. All underground pipe and fittings must be orange.

Core master. Think £250 for two guys and their rig for half a day. That was enough time to get setup and 5 large cores drilled through 150mm and 200mm RC.

An extra 25mm insulation is a no-brainer

If going to be left exposed, you'll need to paint with intumescent paint, to meet fire regs. And as Russell says, most important thing is to make sure it's been designed so it sits fully behind the insulation / window frames, not in them.