Conor

"My necessity of carrying lip gloss everywhere has been replaced with a tape measure which is now a handbag essential! I've become almost obsessive checking sizes of rooms, window openings and that potential bathroom purchases will fit. My tape measure had that much use it finally broke!" Time to upgrade to a compact laser measure. We spent the guts of 2 years stealthily measuring people's homes...

As resistance squares with velocity, even a small difference in diameter can have a big impact on pressure loss. If you know the intended flow rate, the length of pipe, and the diameter options, you can calculate pressure loss in Excel.. https://heatpumps.co.uk/2014/02/20/potential-perils-of-plastic-pipe/

You want 32mm barrier pipe, like this: https://ingoodnic.uk/25-25-90mm-21.html or https://www.underfloorheatingtradesupplies.co.uk/32mm-rifeng-wras-approved-pert-al-pert-multilayer-composite-pipe-x-25m.html with flexible pipes, you can reduce the number of bends as well.

Not the same scenario but here's what we're doing: 200mm ground bearing slab (or raft) with one layer of mesh on top of 100mm compacted stone. Rising walls built up from this level to 150mm above the outside FGL. DPM (tanking in our case) is placed under the slab and under the the externall walls. 150mm insulation is placed on top of the concrete slab, followed by 100mm of screed. If you call your surrounding ground level "0m". You'd dig down until you hit suitable stiff soil, lets say 400mm. You'd then add 200mm stone, 100mm concrete + mesh, DPM, 150mm PIR, 100mm screed to give you a FFL of 150mm above your exterior ground level. You can also use an insulated raft foundation - basically the concrete is poured inside an EPS tub you make out of formwork. Check out the Kore webdite for typical drawings. Whatever method you use, you'll have to have your FGL/thresholds 150mm higher than your surrounding final ground level.

@deuce22 to a river via a 160mm pipe. If you think about it, it was always draing to the culvert, but through the soil, you'd be accelerating the flow by channelling it.

Not the same, but we have oil contamination. Solution is for the basement tanking company to place an additional chemical proof barrier under the slab to prevent any oil attacking the tanking membrane.

Not them in particular, but we used panels in our last house renovation for the ensuite. They wee great, and the builder had them fitted in an hour. Were not cheap, think we paid £180 or so for enough for a 800mm shower. They were the laminate on marine ply type, not the PVC panel type. After seeing both, the solid type panels are a lot nicer than the hollow PVC type stuff.

Sounds like a nice project, always good to see old buildings repurposed. We once moved from one street to the one directly behind... A move of about 100m... You definitely beat that!

If it were me, I'd hire a 1.5tonne digger and a motorised wheelbarrow for the weekend (£200 or so) and get cracking. That's assuming you can get access in to the garden for a 1m wide machine?

The meter size is different from the pipe size. They are a screw in type and the size refers to the aperture of the meter inlet - they are volumetric meters and that's the size of the "piston". A QN15 meter will have more than enough of a flow rate. This is most likely what they'll install: https://www.bes.co.uk/elster-v210-manifold-cold-water-meter-20887/?ref=gs&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyrPhohVX2wW1nmtA8L3ftTB-hIIvB6-AJQoX2eg2uiJ_KpB-Ib0IDIaAreuEALw_wcB It's the only sized meter we'd ever install on a 25mm or 32mm service. The pressure loss is minimal and the more important factor is the diameter and length of the service pipe. You should install 32mm pipe all the way to your internal stopcock.

Try ecology, they are pretty flexible and didn't bat an eyelid when I went from fully time to part time after we signed with them.

@Dreadnaught strictly speaking, you'll have to issue a private street works notice to all the residents, I think it's a minimum of 2 weeks before works start. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1980/66/part/XI/crossheading/the-private-street-works-code

Random thought. But checkout local companies that do directional drilling, could work out cheaper if it's a suitable job for them. E.g. https://www.trenchlesssolutions.co.uk/installation-of-25mm-water-pipe/ Btw, do you own the road or somebody else?

A little on the high side compared to what we'd pay the mains laying contractors on a typical frame work, but not too bad for a one off job.

We've a twin wall drain running all the way down to the bottom of the site. Sits about 300mm lower than the base and filled opening with rubble and stone. Seems to be doing the job well so far.

We've just put down all the compacted type 3 for the basement slab. It could be a few weeks before the main contractor is able to do the tanking and concrete pour. Do I need to cover and protect the stone from the weather until then? I'm concerned that the fines will get washed out, leaving the top surface loose. Few sheets of weighed down DPM? There's still a sand blinding layer to go on, but that's being done by the MC.

We got 240v LED spots put in our last house. Moved out 5 years later and all were still working perfectly.

Not sold anything yet. Have an offer of 30p per brick for 3000, but holding out for 50p for the lot (15k or so). Cleaned Belfast brick sells for about £1 a brick of I can be bothered cleaning and stacking on to pallets. Haven't actually advertised, just had a few drive by offers. It did mean I was able to build my electric kiosk for cheap.

VID-20200328-WA0006.mp4

£4k!!

I don't think they uploaded properly, I don't seem to have the option to delete and retry.

Now we have planning in place, and a design we are happy with, time to get started. We are certain we cannot employ a main contractor to do the build - at 280m2, the MC estimates are in the £400k range. We need to keep it closer to £250k. Demolishing the existing was the first challenge. After a few calls, it soon became apparent that this would not be cheap. £10-£20k from the main demo companies. Lowest offer was £4 for a reclamation company to come in, demolish by hand and take all the natural slate, timbers and Belfast red clay bricks. There's upwards of £15k worth of material there, so jog on!!!! So, I started the laborious process of demolishing the house in September 2019. As it was a single story bungalow, it seemed like a doable job, esp as the walls were red brick with weak lime mortar. Wall render, radiators, floor boards, insulation, kitchen, plumbing, ceilings. The biggest challenge and worst job was the loft insulation. Somebody in their wisdom chose to use 100s of bags of loose EPS balls. Absolutely nightmare. Couldn't sweep them up, couldn't vacuum, couldn't let them mix with the rest of the materials. In the end, we ended up punching through ceilings, and using a leaf blower to pile all the beads up, then stuff in to numerous 90l wheelie bin bags, and off to the dump. Horrible job! Ceiling down, beads separated using leaf blower. Walls stripped, floors lifted. Joists and floor boards being kept for future use on outbuldings, furniture etc. Roof stripped of natural slate tiles. Mostly done from inside the attic, with slates lowered down on pallets on a telehandler. Walls were demolished by hand, with a little help from my pregnant partner and our "site car" VID-20200328-WA0006.mp4 All in demolition including putting in a wider access road and stoning the front of the house, £3k. Next: ground works. VID-20200328-WA0006.mp4 VID-20200328-WA0006.mp4

Never white grout. It doesn't stay white for long at all.

Yep, that's the thing with a home buyer's or structural survey... they are completely non-invasive. The guy that surveyed our purchase didn't even go in to the attic as there were no floor board. Luckily what wood worm was there was mostly around the loft hatch so was picked up and got us a couple £k off. along with a drainage problem and rotten fascias. So if something doesn't present at the surface, it may be missed.

98% air tho. It's certainly not as bad in terms of composition as phenolics. Second your comment tho, would have though an opportunity for something like sheep's wool stuffed between joists? Or blown cellulose?