Declan52

How are they disposing of it. If they are going over a weighbridge then ask to see the dockets to prove that all the loads are near enough the same weight. If they aren't then it's a seat,a flask and a newspaper and keep a beady eye on them.

Think you need to take a breath and ditch the name calling statements. If you don't like reading what is being said on this forum then it's a fairly easy thing to fix. Having been on both sides of the fence I always liked jobs where it was laid out in plain English what was to be done by me and what wasn't. It cuts out the constant back and forth of what about this bit and that bit. When it was my time to do my build I was always upfront of what I wanted the particular trade to do and what they didn't need to do. How would you expect a plumber or spark to price up a job fully if you don't include exactly what you are looking him to do. That's the basis of the contract. When you get the price back written down then that should be your written contract. It's then up to you to go through this and see if it suits what you are looking for. As for what @laurenco needs to do that's up to him. I would be going through whatever emails, texts etc to see what was asked for and what the demolition companys answers where. Then take it from there. I have already said that I think they have took advantage of him. Either it was all the waste or none of the waste. Definitely not leave all the useless stuff and take the valuable scrap.

How big are your arms!!! A 2kg hammer would be plenty. Use the tape to measure your distance, make a score with the bolster at the top and then move the tape down the block and score with the bolster. Then hit it a wack. Can you not go to your local merchants and buy a few 100mm and 150mm blocks.

Just use a tape measure to score a line where it needs broke. Thats all that tool is doing away with. The rest is just a hammer and bolster and a few thumps.

Doing a self build is a massive learning curve no matter what your background is. It will all be chugging along sweet as pie and you will be walking about like a proud peacock thinking you have the job under control and then along comes an issue that you never seen due to your lack on experience. This could be as simple as not having some materials delivered on time to not having the terms of what the job consisted of fully laid out and wham bang your running around like a headless chicken trying to figure out a solution. It happens and will always happen as people make mistakes. Some take the piss and others like what seems here are clearly taking advantage of an inexperienced self builder. Either the contract was for the removal of the demolition spoil or it wasn't. If it was then you would expect it to include everything to be removed. If it wasn't then all the valuable stuff that has been taken then needs to come back. But if there was no actual written contract stating what was and what wasn't too be done then who is right and wrong. The self builder for not providing a list of what was to be done or the demolition company who probably knew they where dealing with a novice and not asking what was expected of them. The answer in my opinion is somewhere in the middle where both parties have to shoulder some of the blame.

If the hatches that she has don't fit nicely between the width of 3 truss/joists then they will have to make a frame and lid and the surrounding timber to suit. The truss/joist should be spaced 400mm or 600mm centers to suit plasterboard so the kit she has really should fit.

Ok. Just a bit messy/dusty job cutting the hole. No big deal.

I agree it's not the sort of thing you would want on the bedroom ceiling. It's not a lot of work to create the opening a few hrs is plenty. Can you get the openings sorted before the plasterboard goes on?? Will save a fair bit of work and mess.

Will the ones you have fit then???

If the hatches you already have are too large it's not a big job to form an opening to suit the size of the rooms you want them in.

Could you use something like plasterboard screws with washers for fixing the first layer with a few squirts of foam and then use a glue or low expansion foam for the next layer.

Just use a heavy lump hammer and a 4 inch bolster.

3 ton digger will be able to do that easily enough with an experienced driver. The question is how long will it take you to get the hang of the controls and not have the digger dancing all over the place. Same goes with the dumper. They are very dangerous bits of kit. They can tip over if you are not careful. Plus if the ground is soft they will make a mess with deep tyre tracks giving the digger more work to do. Make sure you have a drum of red diesel at hand so you aren't wasting any time going to get fuel later on. Keep the revs at half speed till you get the jist of what stick does what and make sure your head is on a swivel as it's hard to hear/ see people coming over to you.

I put all my services in via a long 110mm 90 degree bend. Only one that didn't need brought into the house was electric as it comes up the cavity to sit inside the meter box which has to be accessible from the outside in NI. I used 65mm concrete lintels. If you leave a gap 1 block long,450mm, you build 2 bricks 2 high either side of the hole. The lintel then bridges the opening and will sit flush with the next course. This will give you an opening that will be able to house 2 110mm bends. Will look like this. If you need more that 2 bends then it's easy to make it wider like the pic.

It was the building control officer who has wanted it to be 1m deep. The only way you will be able to change his mind will be with hard facts on paper. Saying to him my mate 2 doors up only went 500mm down won't cut it. My founds are only 225mm deep but they sit on very very hard boulder clay so won't go anywhere. Could have built straight of the clay it's that hard.

Make sure you only use timber like off cuts from joists or scaffolding planks. Never ever use concerte blocks or bricks. These will compact under the weight and crush. There are holes in the base plate on the jack leg that if you want you can put a nail in to stop the scaffolding slipping of the timber. Handy if the telehandler drive is blind or your on a slope.

No wd40 is a cleaner and will remove any grease/oil that's left. A small squirt of veg oil won't do any harm. Won't last as long as the 3 in 1 but it's still act like a lubricant.

Have you tried a few squirts of 3 in 1 oil along the mechanism in the bits the bolts move up and down. Don't lock the door. Just move the handle up and down to see if it frees it up. If they don't move to the top the key is hard to turn.

Are they uPVC. Mine are dark grey so swell in the sun and get hard to lock. As above when the door is open do all the locking bolts move freely or are they stiff.

Obviously yours will have a quirky detail or go faster stripes.

Do it like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-pallet-buster-demolition-bar-1100mm/6765X?tc=NA1&ds_kid=92700030952052176&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1249796&gclid=CjwKCAjwzenbBRB3EiwAItS-u07dU_baZQhnbClhrkU_9zh9zZcVYu5xuzaW39w9oSFGfW9kChVB8RoC0F4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CILYxtuU_NwCFU2k7Qodm90Dag

His bill would be £X minus the cost of the remedy.

Could you overboard your current table. Use big bolts countersunk into it to pull the warp in. You could even heat treat the bolts to make them appear older. Change the legs to metal/oak and you have a new table.

I used that fortax 6400 to stick my membrane to the blockwork. It's really sticky stuff. Top tip don't get it in your hair only thing that takes it out is a razor.

Are they both 35mm doors. I put 44mm mexicano in mine. Does it not say on the tech data how thick the lippings are.