Declan52

So nu lok Ireland Ltd went bust and he set up as lilyash Ltd selling nu lok???

Did one of them guys not join up here at the time???

Can you leave the pex pipe in place and connect it up to the pump and see if it pumps along that.

You will have to strip the verge and backfill with some hard-core. At least 250mm as the delivery trucks will compact this down. Depending on how easy it is to turn into your entrance it might need to be 5m wide to allow all the lorries to get on to your site. The ditch, how wide and how deep is it??

There was a scheme here in NI a few years ago where if you managed to hit the low carbon target you had no rates to pay for 2 years. If you managed a zero carbon build then it was extended to 5 years. But like all the schemes that might actually work and maybe make a difference they closed it down.

Lead is easy to manipulate for a valley or a soaker. It will out last everything else but as Russel points out you have to oil it up or it will stain the roof tiles. The only issue is you need to remember to use copper nails to fix it and don't put it on till the last minute as the magpies in transit vans love it.

Where you present when they did the testing??? I take it they just used a hand held cpt test to get the test results on your trial pit document. How did they get the test result at 2m depth. Would it be worth it to get them back and do 1-2 boreholes to 6m to gain more information. It will either confirm the need for piles or hopefully give more accurate results which might allow strip or a raft type foundation. It will also allow you to contact those companies/engineers who specialise in raft foundations and give them this data and let them figure out if it's a possibility to use this method. Plus if it has to be piles then you will have more data to give to the piling company which will let them design the piles to suit your site. Just because the field next door is good for strip foundations doesn't always mean that yours will be. You can have rock in one field sticking out of the ground and peat in the next.

I would say it's the presence of the organic matter, roots and rootlets, that has them worried.

Think you made the right choice. It's your build and you have search high and low and found architects who you like. For them to come in and ask you to change is taking the piss. Enjoy your build at your pace and not at the behest of a TV company.

On that pdf page 13 the pic on the left shows how you can do a corner. If there is a gap then you can bridge it with planks. It will just depend on the how your run works in in 8ft lengths. The planks will cover the hole and you use 2 ledgers that will slot into a Standard on one side and use clamps to tie it to the other run. Page 52 is about the diagonal bracing. So every 4 bays is a brace. They are a kwickstage bar. They have a swivel type head as sometimes they take a bit of wrestling to get the pin to line up. https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/products/details/364.html

Using daves pic as an example he should have used 3 diagonal bars in where I have the pink lines. Nothing wrong with how he has done it as he says he only had a few so used 2 for the centre bay to stop it wobbling about. One he has used in the correct way to stop the wobble as shown by the green lines. He has also used 2 as outriggers shown in the blue arrows. But dave was the only person on that scaffold so no real need for toe boards, double ledgers for handrails and double trannies at the ends. Strictly speaking he has took a risk but everyone does it. I have been on some proper scary scaffolds in my time, real sea leg type jobs.

That was the loophole here for a few years until they updated the building regs and included an air test. If you didn't do a blower test then they put your details in to the SAP test and if your house passed with it set at to 15 then that was your result. If it didn't pass then you had to perform a blower test and then use the new score on your SAP score. But there where plenty of people who got in during that early stage ?.

The domestic rhi scheme here paid out based on your as built SAP. So in theory the bigger your heating bill the more you got. It was limited to £2500 per year though unlike the commercial scheme which paid you £1.60 for every £1 you burned no matter how much you burned.

Had a slight chuckle there, you're never really finished.

Or buy a hod and do it that way. Can get 12 in them each lift.

Am sure Debbie is pleased!!!

Use a big heavy hammer and make it sit flush. Or a grinder if you aren't the violent type.

Trestle and planks will get you to first floor height. Is your brickies going to build over hand?? Do they need a full scaffold to work of or is it just for safety and jointing up. How are you going to load the materials onto the first floor, telehandler or digger??? Trestle and planks to get you to first floor height. Get it scaffolded and built and roof on as quick as possible. Maybe 4-5 weeks worth of hire if you have everything there and truss ordered up and the weather is kind.

1. Most common size is 8ft long. You can get 4ft and 6ft also. 2. Transoms are just the part the plank sits on. They are and upside T so the plank sits in the web. 3. You start another run and tie both parts together using small sections of round bar and clamps. Then overlap planks from one side to the other to bridge the gap. 4. 4ft is the most common width but you can get narrower trannies if access for example is an issue. 5. You need a diagonal in on every lift in height. Depending on how long the run is you might need 2 spaced apart. 6. You don't usually use these as the scaffold gets tied to the building via Window openings. But I like to wedge planks to stop the wobble. If it's really long 20m+ then you could set up a bay to use as a loading area. 7. Yes 8. Stops bricks and tools falling off when they get dropped or kicked and hitting those below, important bit. 9. As long as you have the diagonal bars in that height isn't an issue. It will still wobble a bit but you get used to it. 8 stories high is my highest in kwickstage and it was fine. 10. Only issue is every trade needs it at different heights so will take bars out to suit them and they never put them back. Will be your job if diy to go round and check they haven't took the handrails of and left an opening you can fall through. 11. You can either use 21 ft round bars if this is long enough or steel ladders that have round bars that scaffold clamps clamp to. Or you leave the roof of the porch and put a standard on the floor and continue the run as normal. Strip the scaffold and then finish the porch. Need to put a pic up to see what you mean about the fire place. 12. You will recover the vast majority of what you spent. Don't under estimate how heavy and time consuming it will seem at the start. But the muscles will grow and you will get quicker. Planks and ice don't go well together so if you're doing this in the winter just be careful. Wear gloves and when you are removing planks to either lift or lower a run a hat and goggles. The dust and dirt that will fall on you is unreal. Be realistic its a 2 man job till you get it figured out.

I just used pir as a replacement for the edge strip. Don't see any reason why you would need both.

Can you not just cover the top of the wall with dpc, felt, polythene and let it sit and see if it does dry out.

Why do you need to be able to interact with it from far away. They are a fit and forget type machine. Only need to change the filters yearly.

I have a multi purpose ladder that would tick a lot of boxes. Folds down small enough to fit in the car boot and can get me on to my roof of I need to. My house is a bungalow which helps. https://www.screwfix.com/p/4-section-aluminium-professional-adjustable-ladder-3-6m/99993

Took a long time in the shower to get the motar stains out of the side of head,neck, shoulder and back. But it does learn you how to mix motar. Chimney copings where the worst lift. Usually 3 ladders to climb and by the time you got to the top of the last ladder the legs where a wobbly mess.

First of all its a nice looking house and won't be that complicated to build. Your front door might be better with just one side light. It's hard to tell with no dimensions but if you go for 3g units they have fairly wide frames so you might not have much actual glass on each side. The toilet and cloakroom are eating into what could be a very grand looking entrance. You could relocate the cloakroom to under the stairs and the toilet to the rear hall. Block of that door way and make a small toilet there. Not counting the double garage doors you have 5 different doorways so you could easily lose that one. What about upstairs layout. Maybe it's just me but why has the garage not got quoins so it matches the house. If it was me I would do it all like the garage and have the just the front porch in stone and keep the rest clean and sharp looking.