Declan52

By opening the vent more you will be allowing more fresh air in which will hopefully push out the damp air via any leakage in the room. But as you say you can only open it so much before you will feel it in your bed.

The simple bit is brick will cost more. For bricks your talking 60 per sqm and blocks would be 10 per sqm. You will also use more motar on the bricks. But where it might work for you is you already own the bricks so have no cost where you would have to buy the blocks, unless you have these lying round also. You will need to get a price from a brickie and then work it out for a proper comparison. Me personally I think the red bricks from the old house would be my option but I would rake the motar out to create a shadow effect.

Could we all take this down a notch please.

Your laughing then.

Shouldn't be that bad then. What about the screed how long has it been down.

Could you open the ceiling vent up a bit more to try to increase the flow rate a bit more.

My house is no where near a passiv level but compared to my last home the mhrv makes such a difference. I get no condensation on the windows or no mould anywhere now the house has dried out. My previous house during the winter my 2g windows used to freeze shut when the condensation on the inside froze. I have my extractor fan vented out so cooking smells isn't an issue either. I have had issues with my sinuses for years , every member of my family have the same issue, and once we moved in to the new house it made such a difference. The way mhrv can deliver fresh air in my house is it's main benefit for me. If I recover some heat then great but I don't really worry about that aspect.

But your house will be damp and still drying out so you just need to get through the winter without costing a fortune.

And that is exactly the reason why I didn't go down the liquid screed route. He can still set up roughly similar but his floor will reach temp quicker so won't need as much heat as mine but as you say will cool down quicker. So might need another blast of heat later on in the day depending on the heat loss of the house. It's just trying to work out the best method that suits your own particular situation . It took me maybe 3 winters of adjusting different flow temps and boiler temps and room stats till I had it where I am now. It really is a case of trail and error until you get a setup you can live with.

Some one needed to take the guy who built that light house build on grand designs and kick him square between the legs before he started out. A site with extreme aspects like the foundations, the entrance, all the curves etc was always going to cost a complete fortune. The other smaller house he built was beautiful and if he had done just that him and his family would have been more than happy. Sometimes you just need some straight talking person to tell you how it is. He got caught in a wave of emotion and went all in which has cost him everything. The amount of times I said seriously wdf broke all sorts of grand designs records.

Ulster Bank where/are the main player in the self build mortgage market here but when they actually offer these types of mortgages is anyone's guess. They are in and out and back in so it's just pot luck with them. The progressive and bank of Ireland would be your other 2 to call in and see if they have any literature you could read about rates, fees etc. Best option would be to sell up bank the money and move in with family if that's an option or rent. Once you have got your plot buy a caravan and put it on site and move in. Then the rest is really up to you. I used all my cash to get to roof level then got a mortgage from the Ulster Bank to finish the rest. You will have cash reserves so it just depends how much of your own money you want to spend before you spend the banks. So site first, then plans then permission. Site might have outline planning consent so this could effect what you can build. Then you can go and get tenders done and will give you a rough cost of what you will need to borrow. Where abouts in NI are you looking to build???

Because of he called of every job due to rain he wouldn't be able to pay all his bills.

Pour the concrete. Rain will only mark the top 2mm and the rain will sit on top of the concrete. Remember concrete cures by chemical reaction it doesn't dry out.

They are an 8mm diameter screw so all you should pre drill your pilot is 4mm. Don't worry about the bracket moving. Once you have the screws in tight it won't go anywhere.

They are way to expensive and don't think they come in stainless steel so would rust and ruin the look!!!

The step on the bottom of the pic. Then it's only a single step down to the next one. Just don't go to the far end and fall down 2 steps!!!

Cut the first step back so the edge is right under the edge of the frame to give you step 1. Step 3 will finish level with the stair on the other staircase going down. Split the height difference and width to give you the height of step 2.

Pick one method that suits your day to day life. If you have the time to do it then go for the gabions and do it yourself. If you have no time but the money to cover it then get someone in to either do the gabions or build your block wall.

The oval hole is just to give you a bit of movement in the fixing point. Just treat it as a normal hole and fix away. Post a link to the exact coach screws you bought.

Use the L shaped brackets to fix the top beams into the pads. For the coach screws you need to drill the pilot so it's half the diameter of your coach screws, 12mm screw needs a 6mm pilot hole. Drive it in as far as you can with your drill with the correct nut bit on and then you can use a ratchet or a ring spanner to get it the rest of the way in if your drill can't fully drive it in. Could you ask the guys doing your concrete have they got a impact drill they could lend you?? It's high torque you need which most drills don't really have a lot of.

240v attached to the container would have stung a bit ???

Also looked very nice as well . Flat roofs to let the sun still get into houses during the winter.

Exactly. Why would you design in a space to house a ceiling mounted projector when technology has moved on. Short throw 4k projector is where you need to be looking. Won't require any additional work other than the normal ethernet cables,hdmi , speaker etc that you plan to use anyway. Will just sit on a unit and look like an ordinary set top box.

Post a pic or 2 of the manifold and pump set up and some one will try to assist you soon.

He means the water being pumped round the ufh is set to 35c and the actual room stat is set to 20.5c.