BotusBuild

I used Hy-Ten at Newton Abbot. In 2021 A393 was 59.21 a sheet ex. VAT

Correction to the diagram - the "Supply Fuse" is actually an isolating switch. Yes, I am competent, but my certification is out of date (unnecessary cost for what I do now). Yes, I've just answered my own question, because it is notifiable work.

To be clear, does it HAVE to be a sparky, or can I move and reconnect that stuff myself?

I am using Stroma. They did not ask for anything upfront, but I do now have a list of documentation I need to give them. At the end they will provide a warranty, not that I am intending to sell within 10 years

Background: Supply and Smart Meter are booked in to be moved from temporary location to inside the house - hooray. Also in the temporary location are tails from the supply fuse to a CU which feeds 4 sockets. (Note: in attached diagram connections on the left hand side not accurate) On the day WPD/NatGrid are moving the supply in the morning and E.On are booked in to move the smart meter in the late afternoon. Does a qualified electrician have to move the tails, CU and Sockets which are all on their own board (separate from the supply, meter and supply fuse)? Botusbuild - Electric.pdf

They all seem to claim it is OK, which seems mad to me considering UFH pipe is supposed to emit heat, and as @PeterW points out it's 16mm not 15mm So I guess I need to be more specific in my searches - .g "Hep20 15mm water pipe" or "Speedfit 15mm water pipe". Any other manufacturer or brand I should search for?

Silly clarification follow up question. I have some left over UFH pipe. Can that be used to run hot and cold water or is it different pipes. All my searches seems to result in UFH heating pipe

Something like this? The part of the roof that has the rooflights has a 9-10 degree pitch, and will later have a gree roof installed, as will the flatter part to the left of the rooflights, where I will be fitting my PV

Just though it would look great, but I can't find any at a decent price so will be reverting to coloured insulation tape 🙂 and a labelling machine

Go on, give us a clue as to who and where? 🙂

It's time to fit my hot and cold water pipes. I've decided on the manifold and plastic pipe approach. I like the idea of coloured pipe (red/blue). Which suppliers can you recommend please. Cheers Stuart

That, SIr, is a work or art - well done

Nudura

and this is what we have put in. All blocked while still building - to be vented later.

I have to do this, then put a metal mesh, then a scratch coat before I can fit stone slips (think big tiles). I need to think about this too. Might ask the stone slip Co.

My groundworker said the pipes will just fill up with water, you've ticked the BC boxes, as long as you can show you have a way to blow the "heavier than air" Radon out of the pipes if needed, you're good to go 🤣. So, cap it, leave it.

Away from site for 3 weeks, so not yet

I'm being thick - where is the thermal bridge?

So far, we have no evidence of that particular area being a problem, only the two parts by the outflows, but of course, time will tell

@SteamyTea - thank you for your concern. Thinking about it, the GRP was laid about 4-5 weeks ago now (time flies when your having fun), so just as the wet weather imposed itself on Kernow. As you know it can be raining in the North and bone dry in the South of the county. We caught the dry(er) bit. I did not take pictures. It was covered before hand. It was not raining when they laid and while it was curing, or when they painted. They did re-cover in between "sessions". Nosey neighbours do come in handy for such info 🙂 That said, the guy was honest about some wet OSB board (where some rain seeped between overlapping plastic sheet) which was allowed to dry in the sun before they laid that couple of square metres (out of approx 200 sq m). I am keeping a very careful eye on what is happening. So far, all seems well apart from the two areas discussed in this thread.

I had GRP laid a couple of weeks ago, with 3 outlets through parapet wall, also made out of fibreglass. These are not currently feeding into a hopper/downpipe, and I detected two bits dampness in the locality of two of these outlets. These two happen to be where most of the water is coming off the roof and a certain amount of pooling exists on the roof by them. I think what is happening in my situation is that the water is tracking back on the underside of the outlets when we have had high winds and rain. As a temporary attempt at fixing, I have made small cuts in the bottom edge of the outlet on the outside and bent the edge down a little to encourage the water to fall away quickly before it can track back along the underside. I have also, on the one worst affected, now put some visqueen plastic along with some CT1 to provide a seal against any tracking back. I'll monitor over the next couple of weeks and may also make appropriate use of a new foam gun and expanding foam - old foam gun thrown away in disgust when it stopped me doing this at the weekend 🙂 HTH

She's is doing OK thank you - I have my assistant back, although not quite as able as before. Once we have backfilled completely, we'll know better. How is your's coming along?

We have a mortgage on our current house with Nationwide with a Loan to Value (LTV) of about 15%. We're both closer to retirement than starting work, and we were transparent about what we were doing (except for my rolling "2 year" completion timeframe)

I started reading the article this morning and stopped as soon as they stated that all heat pumps provide air conditioning in the summer. Just checked, and that part of the article has been removed 🙂 So much for accurate journalism on this topic. There are other things in the article (a regurgitation of an earlier article by the way) that still wrankle with me; the "larger radiators" comment without proper explanation, and the number of trained installers - like you HAVE to use a trained installer (which you do for some I admit) I shall not be watching this program so as to protect my blood pressure 🙂

To help, here is a picture of one such studwall - the gaps will be filled with PIR and foamed round, ( outseide lat