jamiehamy

I hope you appreciate JUST how spoiled you are today! We have handballed 250 sheets from the drive up to the hill, including a pallet of Wallboard 10 and 15mm boards...

Just sit them flush. I was speaking to a decorator about this - he does tape and fill but says he never specs TE boards as the finish is fine without. No need for gaps - he said if there are, just put caulk in the gaps before taping. I meant to respond about boards to floor but couldn't remember why I left a gap. Partly it makes boards easier to fit but also because I also thought if there was a spill it might be better if the boards don't touch the floor. Decorator said he'll come down and give me some lessons that will save me hours and avoid having to sand everything. Will share once he's been J

Tell him your not happy about the flood risk to your house and are going to seek advice from SEPA. That's what I'd do, not saying it's right but no point sugar coating it - diggers are on site and its your house at risk. Or I'd take measures to protect my property I. E make sure any water diverted his way. But the former is my instinct.

I've just emailed Jewsons to get them to close my Credit Account. Another price discrepancy - charging £4.88 per sheet of gyproc+VAT rather than the agreed £3.99+VAT. That's £60 on one pallet - if it's worth them charging me for, it's worth me saving. I'd love to know how their systems are designed because it's obvious that it's not integrated in the slightest. I'll just pay on delivery and get more Reward points and cheap flights.

Shame? Matter of opinion!

I really need to get the finger out with this - we are ready to fit ours now and we've not even finalised the design. Will nto cause us any issues for a few months but I need to look at it amongst all the other bathroom, kitchen, landscaping, garage and decoration planning we're doing!

The cladding really looks great and suits your house perfectly! Happy I could help with that- samples sometimes just are not enough. Keep up the good work!

Not quite - although we did completely rework the entrance/kitchen/dining/toilet the day before the electrics were going in... One thing I would say however is that you could think up a new design everyday - there is no single design that will be 'the one' - in my opinion. So you might have the jitters now, redesign - and have the same again 6months down the line! Do you really not like the design? If not - then just stop now, £5k is nothing compared to doing it later. This is the second cheapest point to halt and have a redesign. During build is many multiples more and once it's built - you might have to sell it and start again! Nothing stopping you getting planning for this design and delaying the decision for a bit longer tho - aside from the application cost itself, the cost of the redesign is going to be similar regardless surely?

But you can sand and paint I'm assuming? I mention this because for my curved wall sections I've got some 6mm flexible ply and proposing gluing this in place with some counter sunk screws filled and then painted. If that doesn't work I'll try get some suitable plasterboard but hadn't planned plastering the ply.

Perfect - thank you!

Ah! Bad example! They are all screwed into the plastic on the sides bar that one and screwed directly into the concrete lintel at the top. On that side alone there are 5 brackets. It's seen 60mph winds this winter and never budged :-} I like the counter sinking to help bring the screw heads down. Once I've done that I'll put ply between the brackets screwed and adhered to the plastic then screw the gyproc into that. Any recommendations for ply to XPS? More to just help keep it together than the primary method of fixing.

That's unreal - really sorry to hear that, you know I feel your pain. I could go on and on about the appalling service from BUildstore but would be saying nothing new - a lot of my work is around process design and in short - they have none. No proper, consistent processes. No case management system. No effective SLAs. No proper customer service. Lazy staff is a large part of it I suspect as well. I'm afraid I don't have any suggestions in this regard - our experience was so bad that when the barn fell through, we decided that we would never use a mortgage to build the house. For a start, you have the mortgage fee. Then have to take out the warranty. And pay a higher interest rate. And are constrained by state payments (in our case only arrears)....you can easily add £10k on just in mortgage related fees. It might not be what you and your wife want to think about - but - seeing your daughter pitch in with the garage - is a true self build an option for you? Okay - it'll take longer, be hard graft, BUT it will cost significantly less and, arguably - be less stressful because you don't have the serious constraints of mortgages, warranties, stage payments etc etc. Also, it means you work at your own pace as and when financing allows. It's not something to take on easily, more of a life choice than anything. But you are out the ground. How much to get wind and water tight then finish the rest yourself? Have a think - it might take you twice as long but you could finish by having no mortgage....

Hi all, Looking for some suggestions as to the best way to plasterboard the window reveals. As some will know, the window company screwed up the order and all the windows were 20mm too large, which has in turn messed up the detail at the reveals. Anyway - we are where we are. It's easier to show a pic - what would folks suggest is the best way to complete this detail? The brackets are a bit of a problem, more so because the windows are too big and sit closer than I want to the wall but as much because they interrupt the continuous surface which will warp the gyproc. My thinking was - 6mm ply screwed into the vertical reveal which, using packers, should give a level surface (or only ply the sections between the brackets), then screw the gyproc into that. Is there an option to partially 'dot and dab' the part closest to the window and screw the other side into the batten?? If so, what would I use to stick the gyproc to the insulation? All thoughts welcome! Thanks, Jamie

I'm interested in this - our terrace is an EPDM roof. I'm currently trying to decide the best way to deck it - do I use tiles and adjustable supports or do I go for firrings and lay the composite decking across that. My timber merchant suggested that I would want to use something like cedar for the firrings to ensure they last as long as possible. The fall we have is 1/40 which was achieved by the joists themselves being set at that. I'm waiting on a price for the firrings which I should have tomorrow. I'll watch this and update with my prices if that might help in anyway.

If it helps in anyway, this is a copy of ours. I didn't check just how accurate it was but overall it seemed pretty good. A5419_PDF Sheet 1 Revised.pdf

Hi all, I've just ordered our skylight which is about 2m2. It will be south-facing so I want to reduce the solar gain. For our South facing windows, which are extensive, we opted for Pilkington Activ Blue with a g-value of 0.3 Iirc. The skylight company use a different glass supplier who have a really interesting tool. I know solar glazing had been discussed before but I don't think this has been shared? It could help those planning a combination of shading and solar glazing to reduce risk of over heating. You can set different parameters to get the right light and energy levels to suit the location and purpose. http://www.yourglass.com/configurator/gb/en/toolbox/configurator/main.html

nice work! The updates are brilliant as a resource for anyone else doing this in future.

I am on our local Community Council - we tend to avoid commenting on planning issues unless we have specific representations made to us - I think we support more than we object. One application sticks out from the neighbouring CC - they objected to a driveway being created because the car shown in the driveway is smaller than the car the people actually own and this was misrepresentation....

How much to hire a GoGo washer for an hour or so to clean the road?

What are you going for?

I agree

You've got the job, when can you start? :-p

I generally went for between 1/80 and 1/40 (depending on area as we couldn't go down further). Wouldn't go less than 1/80 tho - maybe just a bit too shallow.

Crossover with ProDave - you need to get someone else to do it. I'm on my local community council and there are three things people care about. Parking. Trees. Dog shite. Remove parking and all hell breaks loose!

Nah, you're all getting it wrong here. HM P needs find someone on this forum who lives nearby, give them the address and no more be said. Miraculously overnight, the space is painted out, cue outrage from neighbour and HMP, both of whom contact planning... Not your problem! In all seriousness tho, do you have contractors who could do this without a fuss? You don't want the flak, you want to manage it such that someone else does the dirty work, and when neighbour is unhappy you can say that the contractor was doing what the plans said and worth speaking to the local authority about it. That as much as it doesn't bother you, you've got to comply.