jamiehamy

Hmm, that's a good idea - we're not too late to do that.

I know the feeling - couldn't find my favourite hammer at the weekend whilst doing some gyproc. We decided we were too tired and wished it well in the darkness but it turned up later under a pile of Rockwool! It's all looking great!

Doh! Thanks - will do that - neater and probably better for the flow. I did wonder about drain cocks, but my thinking was that as the outlets are all pointing down, then I can simply open an outlet per manifold to get rid of any water? For the isolation, I'll put one on the main hot and cold feed - thank you. I still can't work out how the hot doesn't flow down the cold side tho @TerryE! I had a read at your blog and can't work it out!

Thanks gents. I've made a start, got a dry pressure tester, just need to dig out my bicycle pump! I've soldered the manifold sub assemblies - where the cold manifold supply bridges over to the middle manifold (where the mouse is) , I'll be putting a compression Tee to make it easier to join. I've just used 22mm to all the manifolds - the left most is the hotter supply for showers and bath, the middle for basins at a lower temp and right most cold feeds. All supplies are heading through the floor space as the plant room is upstairs. The red arrow will be roughly the level of the UVC outlet with min 500mm distance.

That's the one - thank you. Last time I looked none of the pictures were available. I'll try get some of that 6mm board and see how it goes. Very similar curve we're looking for.

Hiya, Me again...! So starting to dry assemble my manifolds - will do some practice solders tomorrow. I've got a couple of questions on @Nickfromwales's epic picture. Have I gotten the flows right here - the hot flows into the first TMV (with the cold), and the output from that splits into two, feeding the second TMV to bring the temperature into the third manifold down further? I can't quite see the detail in the green circled area so not 100%. Are the TMVs fitted with a non return valve to stop the hot flowing down the cold supply manifold? Also, what has been used to connect the manifolds? I've gotten 22mm-3/4" female elbows into the manifold male ends, which have a rubber seal - presumably this is fine with no tape or anything else? For the other side, where the manifold has the female end, does the male elbow go on with tape, or is there something better? It doesn't tighten up at the right angle, so it slightly loose without tape just now.

According to Wren Kitchen guy they are not increasing prices - kitchens made in Hull and Scunthorpe and most materials sourced in UK...

I would only need two boards (or three in case of error). Hmm, do I try get hold of three sheets or try the wetting method... Maybe the latter and see how it goes.

That's just what I was about to ask!

That's what I can't remember :-)

Hiya, We (well, I!) am planning a curved section on an opening in the house. I remember on ebuild a member did this but I can't see the pics. It was his/her type of curved wall I want to do. Iirc the sole plate and wall plates were cut from osb and layered, with 4x2 all the way round. I can't remember how the plaster was moulded - was it cut on one side various times? I've been online and want to avoid wet plasterboard if possible! Thanks, J

Sorry, would be recirculating - just means ducting to extract from under the island back into the kitchen. We can't have an overhead unit as 1 - there is a skylight just to the left and 2 - the ceiling is at 5degrees, and 2.6meters high so not really an option. Hmm mm!

We can put in the cable and there will be room for ducting possibly - but that would require a retrospective cut of the Quartz surface...

No-one! I just assumed it was needed..

Hi all, So we are hopefully about to finalise the kitchen, after spending 5 hours with the chap so far. We 'require' a downdraft extractor on our island, and they are working out around £1300, but also, as we need a 900 wide one for the hob, it's messing the island layout slightly (even a 660mm one is a pest). I understand the chat around recirculation, but I'm wondering if really, we need it, or it's going to be a fancy ormanent that goes up and down at the push of a button but is not justifying the very high cost. We have MHRV in place to take away the warm and damp air, and eventually any smells - is a downdraft going to be something that is needed, or just nice to have? In terms of capturing grease - are downdrafts really effective at this and without it, is there going to be a tangible difference we may notice? Happy to hear all thoughts - D-Day is Wednesday for final design! Cheers, Jamie

In no particular order... Firstly, who is doing the measure and what fitting tolerance they recommend (10mm? or 15mm?). Recommended fitting method for any fixed lights - i.e any brackets, who supplies. Finger jointing - if timber framed and lacquered, pay more for none (although I doubt Gaulhofer would do finger jointing anyway) Ironmongery - internally, I believe you can specify at extra cost 'hidden ironmongery' - something we only realised after and wished we'd specced. This is in the space between an opening window and the frame - on some of ours, you can see the mechanics behind, which I don't like. Window spacers - what colour? Some look at you like you're an alien, others know exactly what you are talking about and tell you what you can specify. Despite the hassle it caused, the black on ours looks great - so slick on triple glazing. Offload method - how will they arrive and how will they be offloaded. Special glazing - we specified special solar glazing on our south elevations to reduce the solar gain. It's also tinted blue slightly, although you can get other colours. Looks good but also adds a degree of privacy. Fitting - can the glazing be removed for fitting? Can make life easier - some do, some don't. Adjoining panels - if you have say a door and side panel, how are these afixed? Is there a cover panel for the joint either internally or externally?

Why bother resubmitting? Did your plans have dimensions in them? If not, there is nothing for planning to baseline against. Also, the BCO doesn't care about whether your dimensions are different - that's not his/her remit. If you did put dimensions on the plans, then fair enough - but I can't see them being upset about half a metre? Once you raise it, it's a can of worms potentially. I would say this speaking as someone with an incredibly reasonable planning officer and building control officer...

Funny how thing like this pop up - I've asked my electrician to provide the capability to plug in a generator should the power go out. Although we are only 4miles from a nuclear power station, it's not unknown for the line up the Glen to come down. I'll keep a genny in the garage - some lights and ability to do some basics for food are enough to keep us going. OTT maybe but it's that one time you've got people staying and the power dies...

Thank you - I need look no further for my hob - that looks the biz in silver. Going for the 5 zone. :-)

Okay, so just a quick update - I've ordered all the plastic pipe work, stop ends and the manifolds and copper. I'm going to start the runs from the plantroom to the outlets in the next week - when I'm not battening of stuffing insulation between joists or mounting gyproc... Ordered the lot from JTM - they were £80 cheaper than Screwfix, but Screwfix would have had it available for collection tomorrow - but make a total balls up when I phoned about a discount code (another thread on here!) and deleted every item I had picked...not amused! I'm going to practise my copper) soldering skills some night over the next week and make up the manifolds in the house once I feel proficient enough.

I'm literally ordering my HEP20 pipe as I type this - single runs to each outlet from the manifold - no joins anywhere that can't be accessed. Will hopefully spare me from years of worrying that I didn't quite get a join right somewhere!

It's probably just when you think about it a lot, but I suppose the term 'Front door' is specific to the front - really, the question is - does the main entrance door have to be at the front?

I know... Appliances alone are £8k for the kitchen so have to reduce that slightly! But we cook a lot so want something good.

'That's 6 more than I have' sighs Faye... This is the baby itself http://www.pauldavieskitchensandappliances.co.uk/miele-3-powerflex-zone-induction-hob-km6366.html

I love it - however our current 4 ring hob is too small when using large pans, so in the new house, I've specced a Miele 6 ring induction hob. It is slightly different to gas I agree, but it's easy to adapt. It's brilliant having timers on each ring, which will switch them off when time is up, having an alarm if there is a spill over as well as the fact it's so easy to clean.