jamiehamy

And if everyone decides to put a new window in to get a view? These things are there for a good reason - ignore at your peril. The problem is, once one starts, others might want to do things and before you know it, everyone is at odds with someone else. Planning right have nothing to do with the law. Having permitted development approval means nothing really. I would be prepared to bet that your £600 will tell you that you proceed at your own risk.

Lol - supplier?! Brums a big place, do they have a website?

Seems fair, where was this? We need something very similar.

I used Tremco TP600 for ours. The way we did it was to cut the tape to the right length, offer it up to the gap to check. Then remove, peel back the top, offer back up to the gap and with a paint scraper to the non sticky side, slowly pull the backing tape downwards and towards you, pressing with the scraper as you go downwards. The backing tape goes to the window side. It's quiet therapeutic!

Nope

Looking good! All nice and tidy too! Your experience is the same as mine - as middle men, their job should be easy but they somehow can arse up even the most simple tasks. There is no excuse for it especially given their fee. What they do is not difficult, it's just extraordinary bad management and organisation. When the time comes for the remainder of the fee, refuse to pay - and also raise with the ombudsman to raise a formal complaint. Companies like Buildstore will never learn until either business goes elsewhere(unlikely) or people stop paying the full fee on reasonable grounds.

I would add that we have a Sage coffee machine already which produces hot water for teas very quickly and espressos, so our need is less. I would agree it's a nice thing to have tho Our kitchen bill has been bumped up by the appliances to this got the chop

I had specced one in our design but have just removed it. I eventually figured that the cost was just not justifiable and that realistically, it would be lucky ky to get used once a week after the novelty wore off.

I'll add another in favour for Hull. My partner lived there for a year when he worked at Reckitts - I thought it was a lovely city, great museum quarter and lots to see and do. Admittedly we don't go out on the town! He stayed right in the marina @dogman, in Warehouse 13

I know. ? As you were :-)

Not strictly true I'm afraid - Tetris flooring has no blocks at all - and is basically just XPS wedged in the middle as @Vijay is doing. I'd still go with Tetris @Vijay but I think you've finalised this anyway? How many blocks will you have to fit in between the beams?! It's going to be in the thousands I'm guessing?

So - given that I have a 32mm incoming anyway (and very good pressure), should I run 32mm or go down to 28mm? If noise issue materialise, then presumably I can do something to reduce the flow to the supply anyway? Or is it probably six and half a dozen? Cost wise the difference is negligible - was planning getting the pipe in the morning and running it through tomorrow whilst the replacement window is being fitted.

@TerryE - When the plumber (that was too expensive) was on site, he had a look at the incoming 32mm and said he'd just run that right up to the plant room - seems logical to me as it helps with a greater flow rate if I run 32mm as close to the inlets as possible? None of the blue MDPE would be exposed to sunlight - it will run through the service void downstairs and up through the posijoists (there is a cupboard in the right palce that will allow a suitable bend rather than elbow) and pop up near the UVC/manifolds. It would be one unbroken run from the stop cock at entry to the above floor T to the UVC and Cold supply. I've kind of got a bee in my bonnet now (thanks to you guys :p) about doing what I can to reduce pressure/flow variations when multiple outlets are open - it's one real bugbear in my current wee flat - the minute one thing comes on (like the washing machine), the hot water taps or shower immediately drop in pressure.

Okay - you're partially right. Using ICF for the below ground won't eliminate cold bridging, but it will reduce it significantly or eliminate depending on how you view it. - I've done a rough sketch to show. @Vijay. This is not based on yours per se just an aside to show what is possible although I think yours will be like this from looking at it?

Audi auto gearboxes? They are mince - full stop. Where did you take it to out of interest? Have you tried somewhere like this? http://www.ecutesting.com/audi_a4_a6_multitronic_gearbox.html -

I suspect to provide a cold bridge free join between the founds, external wall and floor

Hi all, I think I may be being a bit thick, but our incoming supply is 32mm, which I'm going to run right up to the plant room and tee off to the UVC and to the cold water manifold and fit a reducer to each. Both are 22mm copper pipes - how does one reduce down from 32mm MDPE to 22mm copper?! I can't find the right reducers but reckon I'm missing something really silly. Thanks! J

As long as there is no repeat of this frmo across the water...lol https://thelochsidepress.com/2016/08/25/quick-action-to-fix-lorrys-damage-in-kilcreggan/ I'm sure you know the feeling!

They've been saying that since I was a boy - it won't happen! Despite all the electrical gubbins, car technology is pretty much the same as it was 50 years ago! Allthey do is take anything remotely mechanicaly and add something electric on top - windows, sunroof, mirrors, shock absorbers, lights, brakes, door handles, locks, steering pumps. All the underlying elements are still the same.

On the other hand now we're into Second fix, I'm amazed at how many UK companies make plumbing equipment, electrical equipment, gyproc, kitchens, taps, sinks and many other items... So despair not, still time to redeem yourself! I was quite delighted when I found out our kitchen would be made in Hull/Scunthorpe.

Hmm, interesting! Anything mechanical needs replacing eventually - but when is another question. Of course in ten years there will be better, more efficient models with new features - I can't see these units needing much in the way of proactive maintenance other than what you suggest. The ducting is unlikely to ever need replaced - maybe the unit eventually however I don't think they are the most complesx of devices so if a motor burns out or PCB goes it should be straightforward to replace.

True, however it was only an additional factor - we could have done the wiring first and all the wires would have hung down from the 'right places' - we would then have sheeted the ceiling with minimal cutting of boards. The downside there was that we'd be doing the wiring earlier than we needed to and it was an effective 'point of no return' for a lot of different things.

Sorry! Okay - I went with walls first for reasons above

Are these non-structural? If so (regardless of steel/timber), why not wait until it's watertight? We didn't put any of our studwalls in until we were well past Wind and Water tight - partly for similar reasons to you but mainly to give us flexibiity once we got a feel for the internal space.

Are your electrics all in? We did walls first and once they were all done, got the electrician in to do the electrics. Had we done the ceiling first, we'd have needed the spark in before, and all the stud wiring would have been dangling all over the place. Doing the walls before the spark meant all the cables are run pretty much to the exact location first time.