gc100

That’s terrible. I definitely would be fighting my arse off about this. Window companies are just the worst IMO - cowboys through and through. It fine if you are going for the 300 year old pub look but no way would I accept that.

I have the same issue. We do have AC that we leave on during sunny days as the solar panels cover the cost. Sometimes we have it on at night time to time. Its all built into the loft/walls so all hidden. I knew we might over heat in these rooms due to design limitations (Class Q) and south facing. I'm also considering brise soleils on the south side, but the last 2 summers have been ok on the whole, but I'll probably fit these in time. I quick fix i did for the super hot summer we had 3 years ago, I got some solar film off ebay for about £200 and put up on the outside of the windows (as mine are triple glazed) - this helped somewhat at reducing solar gain. I removed them at the end of summer. I haven;' bother the last 2 summers as its not been hot enough.

How do you all control the flow of electricity from inverter to HW, ASHP, etc when you are generating excess power? What control unit do use ?

Can’t see the foam lasting

The whole of the end wall of my house is glazed . For large areas you will need structural glass (think airports and office buildings) which is very expensive 20k plus. What I did was put a structural beam across at 2.3 meters height and then fixed glazing about to the apex (single story barn conversion) and then a 7.5m x 2.2m 3 piece sliding door under. All 3G , I think the total cost of the glazing was about 7-8k.

(Most) People aren’t even thinking about the ocean. If it gets too warm plankton will die - which is responsible for 20% of the oxygen in the biosphere- that’s a higher percentage than all of the tropical rainforests on land combined! The world is going to sh@t , with governments preoccupied with declining economies and aging populations, looming wars, etc and taking their eye of climate actions. I worry about my young kids and the life they are going to have to deal with

Can I ask why you didn’t apply for Class Q?

Hi, sorry for late reply I don’t come here very often these days. In the end I put some 3d printed blocks that have a brush seal pointing upwards embedded in the tiles in parallel with the end face of the doors to seal the gap. not had any leaks since as far as I can remember. I slight bit of air movement still comes in (for example now sure storm Isha), but I’m not worried about it as the house is plenty hot enough all the time. not sure how long they will last but I could away remove in the future and replace. I glued them down and made sure the tiles aren’t too tight against them so I could get them out in the future.

Just to add, I have the solar panel that is an option and the’ve never once regarded it in 4 years. Still going strong and tells me every time some comes to the gate.

I was watching a live lighting map whilst there was a load of storms happening a couple of months ago. I couldn’t believe how many strikes was happening at that time very close to home. So it depends..

We just used a local blind shop. They are not cheap but it’s something that’s going to be in the house long term so I didn’t mind. The like of louvalite don’t sell directly to customers I don’t think plus you still need to source the material and mount to tube. All the online retailers just provide battery types it seems . just to add - all my blinds I hidden away in the wall/window surround above the window and just slide out of a slit and access is more of a pain

I have mains powered as I cannot be bothered with batteries (Louvolite). The switch is magnetic and is on the wall looking like a normal switch (can control up to 32 binds at once), but can be moved about

I’ve got one of these camera - still going strong 4 years later - luckily it came with one of these sins so I’ve never had to pay for the data ! great cameras you anyone need something like this

I just built a 7mx8m double garage with 2x roller doors and a door at the back. It cost me £3750 in materials plus my summer building myself. It did pole barn design with a tarmac floor (tarmac already there) . It looks great and works great.

Surely in something that size you don’t want any insulation if it’s usage is a gym??

I just don’t get the MSC thing - it’s just a pure rip off. I don’t have MSC installed PV, yet day in and day out I export electricity to the grid. I just don’t get paid. How’s a MSC install any safer!?

I’d be using crushed concrete as well . We did and it goes down very hard and is stable at about 200mm depth. Type 1 on top would make it smoother but I don’t think it’s worth the extra cost. Having said this I used to live up about 700m lane that was just stony soil and used to get really rutted up and pot holed over time. Both me and wife had cars and never had trouble driving up it so long as you looked where you was going. Once a year someone would fill I the worst of the holes with some mot/crush

Not that I’m doing it but it depends really . Ponds can be a haven for wildlife so not all bad. Depends on the source of water and what’s after it downstream.

not if it feeds back (aside from evaporation) A 1/4 acre will produce a LOT of non-top soil so you need to have a plan for that as spreading it about its will be crap grown anything, unless you scape back the top soils first

We used res bars in our tv room and music/office room. They work very very well. However Think about the doors - sound will escape these and you need to pay attention to these to make a room more sound proof. I need to get around to doing something about it as it negates quite a lot the res bars. There are a few solutions like seals that come out when door closes etc. I wasn’t aware of these strips but I think they would have been ideal to use in my house. It’s single story - the floor is self levelled screed (about 80mm) on top of 200m of insulation which in turn sits on top of a concrete slab (original barn). When my 5 year old runs down the central corridor the whole floor transmits this noise and I think these strips would have helps a lot at reducing this.

Possible ideas: chaise it out a bit and fill with epoxy, then sand down starting all the way down to 2000 grit. Tape off and spray matching white. Wet sand down again, another coast or 2, wet sand down , tape off again and then lacquer spray and wet sand and then compound polish. Basically like you would do a repair spray job in a fibreglass car/boat. It would be 100% invisible. if I needed a bath like that and had plenty of free time I’d do it.

100% start again. Same cost, quicker, better insulated, won’t rot, etc

You’ll need to lift it and put a concrete slab down if you want something strong. Not sure what kind of weights you are lifting with a jack are but just putting a 5m sheet of metal under the jack will solve that issue. For spillages there is not much aside from painting/expoxy but you’ll need to keep reapplying every now again as it wears. It also depends on the size of the aggregate in the tarmac - smaller the better for painting etc

Yes sorry typo!

I can’t imagine using my chainsaw with sharpening each time. There’s no way it would chop a tree up in one go otherwise. It’s just one of those things you have to do if use a chainsaw imo. Ask any Woodman.