gc100

We have class Q, and then went for full planning as we wanted to add about 25% more length for 2x rooms and garage. They were basically ok with it provided it was all kept within the original shape and look and feel of the barn - ie just making it longer. However it had to go to committee as because but was full planning in open countryside. We had to present to 15 people - we used a planned consultant who only presented the facts within planning regs . All PD rights were removed . You need to talk to your planner and see if they are open to it.

Dpm normally comes up to the inside of the wall and dpc from higher within the wall and overlaps the dpm. You are normally fixing a wall onto some form of foundation which extends past the wall outward however the slab sits inside this. You want to put some form of breathable membranes over your OSB on the walls (outside). From my understanding

Well I think you know the answer here. The design needs to fit better into the local vernacular. It’s seems you’ll have to work with them to meet somewhere in the middle unfortunately.

I presuming not at all? It’s nice - mine is similar but single story .

i built in open countryside via class q. However it wasn’t straight forward by a long way as we wanted to make it bigger than original building . Because of this it had to go to the planning committee and present to 15 people who made a group decision. However we had no issues as we stuck and quoted 100% to planning policy with zero mention of ‘common sense’ or any form of emotion. It’s their job to approval plans that fall into policy - make it easy for them and make sure there is zero risk for them.

Excellent. What’s camera is it?

You need to get the overall u value for both to compare. Pros of triple are excellent sound reduction, no cold radiating off the glass in winter if you are sitting close, generally better insulation (but not always). Something to be aware off is they don’t let as much solar gain in but this can be a pro or con depending on the time of year though I can’t say I’ve noticed that. Cons: very heavy. Frost/condensation on the outer pane in winter so you can’t see out first thing .

No one checks this on site.

I started off thinking this and hired/got one with a driver to begin with. I suppose I spent nearly £6k before (120hrs worth maybe) then I bought my own. it cost me £11k to buy and now 2 years later worth about the same. I’ve done about 1000hours in it. It’s only cost me fuel and one burst pipe (£35). No brainer for me.

Don’t get a digger/backhoe- we had one one the farm and they are big awkward and not great compared to an excavator. There is a reason you see excavators way more these days. Unless you are moving lots of materials from A to B the excavator is much more practical and faster all round . My build has finish now but I still have my old 3T excavator- it’s just too useful to get rid off but I probably will at some point . Most excavators will struggle with pulling mature tree stumps out. I had a 18T one of site to break and crush concrete up and that struggled a bit with a couple. As per above make sure you leave lots of trunk on and use the leverage. It really depends on your budget but bigger the better really if you have lots of room.

Out of interest what are you using to measure the power consumption as I’m after something similar?

I finished my class Q build nearly 2 years ago. We actually went for full planning after the initial class Q was granted as we wanted to extend the length/size. However it all had to go to committee to get it through as we have had all out PM stripped pretty much and had to stick to the original footprint and existing structure. It was in a right old state but we had an excellent structural engineer who came up with a clever design. We have a pretty high quality build (air tight, triple glazed, zinc roof, clad) and total all in was 2.9k/m including all the paperwork, services etc.

thanks guys

Yes I remember that. I really cannot be bothered to go around the house and do that to all of them. I'd just like to know what they are over/under reading by.

Lots of those on amazon. I just presume given the price they are not going to be very accurate (or a least within 1 degree)

This one https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/heatmiser-slimline I'm sure its no where near accurate

Any recommendations? I have Heatmiser controls in each room and they are saying 22 degrees however the MVHR is saying the exhaust air is 19 and it feels a bit on the cooler side. I have no faith in these heatmiser giving an accurate temp reading. I've had a look on amazon, but its all Chinese stuff and I have no faith it will be accurate either. Any suggestions? If I search calibrated thermometers, most seem to have probes and start at £50 upwards which is a but much for what Im after! Thanks!

Move? Probably a MVHR would be better as you won’t have to deal with heat lose winter months and it will be distributing fresh air around your house, but you’ll need more piping and therefore more up front cost. If your neighbour is really making your children asthmatic I’d be having a good conversation with them and failing any resolution I’d see what my legal options where given their actions are impacting your childrens health as I’m sure you will have some rights around this. Edited to add : https://www.gov.uk/guidance/nuisance-smoke-how-councils-deal-with-complaints That would be my first route after a discussion. Film and document a months worth before submitting all evidence including a doctors note if possible.

Same, though different make.

I used a nail gun. Nails bury themselves into the wood so I hardly notify them unless im looking

Definitely a no no. There should never be joints encased in concrete

Worth a read https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/lawn-care/lgen/using-sand-on-lawns.htm

Grass grows fine in clay, you just want to avoid standing water really. It retains water longer so has advantages as well. My whole garden is clay based (~1500m2). I seeded it at the beginning of Sept and it’s doing great so far. french drains (with stones) and 4” top soil you’ll be totally fine imo

So the installer wants to come around and give the ASHP a 'service' for £150. What exactly are they meant to be 'servicing'? Anyone know?

yes understood that thanks (we have permission for 8k), but why does adding batteries into the mix mean you need to go to them again? We are already pushing electricity their way..