scottishjohn

could also be a positive for older folk having bedrooms downstairs thinking years in front when they won,t like stairs? certainly its in my mind for the new build. If you still going ICF --then you could have a concrete 2nd floor easily --then noise will never be problem

if you design it right you could just jack up the whole roof and fit TF panels or sips second storey walls under it ? you could even live in it while you did it with suitable scafolding

yes - my garage was built with single brick +a couple of butresses--and thats 6.5m x 10m-- built in 1978 --still there no cracks i would have thought if you never going to go higher and not going to be a granny flat ,then single block is plenty for strength if it insulation -- then vcl +batons +foil backed foam pb 37mm-50mm? and your done ,for a garage Or a TF studding fixed to it and boarded--outside of TF is only one brick thick

having done some in the past --larger areas of floor without them - I would always be using tile leveling spacers now the main thing is to really check your floor is level and no dips in it BEFORE you start If there are then self leveling compound ,or you will be using mega amounts of adhesive for tiles to fill in dips to get them right I speak from experience of making really new boy mistake on my biggest floor 6m X 5m--took twice the amount of adhesive ,cos it had dips caused by crappy builder not getting all joists same height but that did not stick out when it had underlay +carpet. you need a long piece of something straight to check it as well a as 4ft level ,then you can use minimum adhesive and it will be good +no worries about full contact remember if you start with 8mm under first tiles --you will be that at least for the rest -- so if its flat and level you could get away with 6mm --thats a third less adhesive !! my other suggestion is do not use light coloured grout ,unless you like to keep sealing it ,as it will show up any discolouration if its light usual one is PEE stains around the bog from us men not hitting the target . dark grout --do not show up the same

is this ground floor or 2nd floor

only difference was mine had chipboard floor ,as it was a retro fit , maybe thats easier way

If tiles --then 6mm ply on biscuit mix +tile onto that ? it s what idid in my own floor 15 years ago with 450x450 tiles --all still there just make sure there is no flex in joists !!

I would do this joist with insulation between up to top of joists ,then plywood then fit all UFH piping then fit battons between pip[ing ,then fill with biscuit mix ,then fix top floor to that this way no load on insulation at all

what you are looking for at this stage is planning permission in principle ? will what you want be possible if you comply with any restrictions they impose ? If so then maybe the £180 is well worth spending -its a nothing in the scale of things , but that will not get you planning permission of any kind , its a conversation ,but if its a definite NO for second house you should get that so go along with a site plan showing boundaries and roughly drawn out plan and views of what you would like--2/3 or 4 beds etc +drive and parking for 2+cars off the street and you will at least get -- a verbal yes or no in principle. have you got full plans of this plot and any underground services that might be crossing it to other properties ? ,you can always get permission to replace an old house and rebuild it with one of the same size footprint at least and within the ground you have.providing its not too close to neighbours etc , so is it if they will accept another house on same plot which is your main worry ? would that not be enough to help you decide to buy plot ,then start the LONG process of getting plans drawn up If the seller is saying lapsed planning --then do they have the planning application no.?

Is there a complete list somewhere of the U values of all the different types of insulation available So you can do a thickness over cost comparison and a simple calulator to get to a target value for the insulation alone at the chosen thickness

that,s absolutely your right and choice . but most decisions are usually a cost versus benefit compromise that's the only reason for my comment

If you changing from block build then 200mmsips panels +50mm exterior+cladding/render then on inside +25mm service cavity+ and 37 or 50mm foam back plaster board. lots of ways to do it --not sure once walls are down to 0.12 there is any real need to go lower

don,t think the energy saving would EVER pay for the extra cost of the extra insulation I had a few discussions with kingspan tech guy on insulation for a water tank and diminishing returns for extra insulation once up to 150mm of pir ,it would never pay to go any thicker assuming no air leaks . which will probably explain why cold store walls made from pir are not any thicker

--they use that to make potting compost so you could possibly mix it in with soil in the garden?

£5k for a range -- again a life style choice not a serious economic choice -- in my mind that is

that does not seem a good deal ,with all the effort involved in making logs to start with

I know to use waste oil heaters in commercial application now you need a license it was favourite way to heat workshops with endless supply of used engine oil .now the cost of a clean burn approved waste oil burner etc makes it not a good choice any more in most cases

but if no other heat source --AND using that as main heat supply --how long . the thought is that in the garage?service are there will be more than enough room for multiple heat sources or changing from one to another in due course I got to cut these trees anyway as they have grown up around the house since it was last occupied in 1960,s

plotting for this new house for various water heating systems It seems I could end up with having to remove about 40+ trees (most about 10-12" dia,some much larger and 30ft+ tall) ,to start with and possibly a lot more in due course my question to those using wood burner for water heating + large tank how long does one tree last ? Is it worth getting a wood burning unit to use them or just try to sell/get rid of them

do you have moss on roof now ? if you don,t then it is obviously too hot or dry for it to grow --so --no i would not bother

all these ways of making us renewable in the talk does not address the cost issue ,which as we all know is what will drive every decision the fact that hydro and tidal barrages were very obvious by their omission shows both these require long term planning + build costs not many places on the planet with better tidal resources and that is dependable --not like wind

just checked -- it is a sottish requirement seems it is different in england,very suprised at that ALL air guns required licensing for last few years in scotland over 12 ftlbs was always fire arms cert so just make sure you don,t come over the border with one I your car www.scotland.police.uk/.../air-weapon-licensing

I would advise the same -and if using off the shelf system and tank i would agree with you . the correct size and shape of tank will be very important to get best from it so its not just useful in summer

think you need to check the gun laws -- sorry you are incorrect its not the act of shooting -but owning an air rifle that requires a cert it so silly now that if you have land to use it on you might as well go for a .17 or a .22 real rifle or a .410 with a sound moderator for around the house /farm vermin they are very quiet

If you using rads with low temp UFH type of water --then you need rads twice the size --or expensive ones heat excahanger look like a car radiator+ fan assisted -not just flat like std rad. If you want very quick response on ufh --then don,t use big thick slab. If you put a layer of insulation on top of main slab ,then ufh in a thin screed --that would alter reaction time If you want big temp diffs from one room to next then you will need doors that fit well and a more complicated MVHR--no 10mm gap as normally used under doors