scottishjohn

does the SUDS regs not allow you to run ALL the drainage to a soak away or main drains ,as i have old house both sewage +drainage goes same way that way you can use ,my preferred method for pavoirs --bed on dry sand /cement mix -they never sink or move if you do it that way --but is impervious to water,so need drainage

a lama farm ?-breed them

so the difference between full electric heating by willis and ashp is £10 a week in the winter . thats beginning to sound like that maybe ASHP is or could be redundant due to intial cost verus willis cost ? so maybe the claim that graphene heatings panels are a viable alternative in a near passiv house is not far off with PV +batteries if one 3kw? willis can power all UFH? what are are your wall ,floor +roof insualation values?

round about 260bhp@wheels ,plenty to keep you awake with a front wheel drive and no lag like a turbo ,dives just like N/A not bad when std 1.6 is about 95@wheels

another one from him --he used to send me in car videos for comments on set-up etc ,as i used to race them very successfully ,anyone that knows cadwell knows its very tight inbits

One of my supercharged 1.6 saxo customers videos

why build that way --whats the attraction?

you mean ICF --or do you mean concrete panels made off site then errected?

Tesla Model 3 Saloon Standard Plus 4dr Auto Picture for illustrative purposes only Personal Contract Hire Quotation - Non-maintained Rates include VAT Monthly Rental: £526.22 Initial Payment: (Equal to 3 monthly payments) £1,578.65 Contract Length: 36 months Annual Mileage: 10,000 miles Excess Mileage Charge: (pence per mile) TBC Maintained Excess Mileage Charge: (Pence Per Mile) TBC Arrangement Fee: £234.00 Important Information • Excess mileage charge is liable to change after a percentage over the total contract mileage. Please contact us for more details. • All VAT is charged at the standard rate • Click here to view our terms and conditions • See our initial disclosure document just got an up to date quote --so yes things have changed

0118 207 6997 Vehicle Information BMW I3 Hatchback 135kW S 42kWh 5dr Auto Picture for illustrative purposes only Personal Contract Hire Quotation - Non-maintained Rates include VAT Monthly Rental: £376.15 Initial Payment: (Equal to 3 monthly payments) £1,128.46 Contract Length: 36 months Annual Mileage: 10,000 miles Excess Mileage Charge: (pence per mile) TBC Maintained Excess Mileage Charge: (Pence Per Mile) TBC Arrangement Fee: £234.00

Yes and have been in them minority for at least last 15years -- speaking from experience it has always been "how much a month",even when people bought cars this is why so many people can run new cars --because they never buy them but just rent them . its only the retired that want to buy outright ,and private buyers have been in the minority fro many many years as well it is not the best way over a period to run a car -- the right way--buy a new or nearly new --one run it 8 years at least ,at the end of the 3 or 4 year finance period --keep putting 50% of the monthly payment in a "car account ",run the car from that when it dies you can go buy another one with whats in there

I was considering an Ev for daily use as my daily run is very short --so i looked at a citreon ev car and after a big struggle i found out battery replacement cost --£7k that put the lid on it for me --can buy a lot of fuel for that money and buy a car to same job at a 1/3 of the price . Its still not a sensible option for most people --yet. I looked to do a 3 year lease package --cost i was quoted was about same as bmw 5series diesel for citreon c1 ev puddle jumper my guess because they think resale values will be poor try it your self and see --maybe its changed --but doubt it

try a local garage --they may have a mobile air con unit- modern ones remove gas then can do vac test and then refill with your same gas and then they only charge for extra weight they put in + .but i doubt a precharged unit ,unless you are really "ham fisted" , i doubt you will have a problem just connecting up . your biggest problem would be buying a gas cylinder --from memory you need a gas cert to buy gas now and not that cheap --had a flyer from local motor factor last week --a small bottle was £150 ,but that will do a lot of systems and most car systems have a lot more gas in them than air con units . what i can say from experience is the usual failure of these systems is leaks ,followed by gather up of water vapour from the air which ends up frozen in the condenser rad and its almost impossible to get it out quickly and easily -and we not talking about a lot ,cos cores are very small.--needs to be degassed and left for a few days then vac and new gas ,and hope its all gone --could take a couple of times --this is why the engineers will tell you it needs replacing --too much time for them to frig about with it and then ,have to do it again --if first vac +purge does not work --If not in hurry quite sure a DIY could do it taking time and using gas

I think though to be fair you can,t really do a true ROI on heating when all systems need replacement at some time , but what you can do is compare with initial and replacement costing of a gas boiler and mains gas ,as that is generally the cheapest system , and see which one works out best over say a 15 year term . I personally would be suprised if an ASHP does not last that long at least ,judging from aircon systems life

normal UFH I presume ,but water heated by willis -with or without thermal store? and pv ?

how much better do you need the house to be before all electric heating --mats etc remove the need fora big UFH install + complications of heat pump if you working ROI can,t be far away?

good point that

lest suppose solar can only give 30-40c in some parts of year --then add an inline pv powered heater to lift it to sunamp threshold ----- lots of ways to make both work together using free pv to top it up --but storage costs will always be the killer

which again is why thermal stores ,as they are sold are not good --never enough insulation on them and never the best type that is osmething ilearned with my thermal store .befoore ihad the ASHP I used phonelic pipe lag sections around the 500mm tank -made BIG difference to heat loss ,,but increased my boiling problem with the solar .LOL 300litre tank was no where close to being correct size for 2x20 evac tubes,my guesstimate is 500 litres min --so you don,t get boiling problem ,but even then you end end up with having lots of hours in the day when the solar temp is same as tank --so it stops working --storage is the be all of solar and ,with cascaded systems to get best from it, this is why if viable on cost i think the sunamp could solve a lot of problems

its not for this house -so no point --its for new house and as it ain,t designed yet , nothing to be concrete with which was why I asked for your ACTUAL figures. I know my elec is high ,but not just because of heating ,but i run a big pond pump and things 24/.7-- that will be close to 400w pr hr --all adds up

better not show SWMBO this she,ll want it

If I can find it ,cos it was a long time ago ,will look kingspan /thermomax technican dept did a calculation for me some years ago on this house ,which is crap compared to a modern one. and they were given the heat loss calc for the house at that time . numbers i do remember were a heat loss of 1.7c per week from the tank the end result of that was 6x20tube panels with 20,000litre storage to get 100% of all heating requirements+dhw for your numbers to come out at more than 50% more storage on a very energy efficient house seems strange,as the heat loss of this house must be close to double of yours as the annual energy bill is--all electric at around 14000kw--£2kish taking what they said as a guide you can see why I considering to store the energy for the small amount you are talking about. I will try to talk to them again ad give them a target of 2400kw ,and see what numbers they come up with .my thoughts are to cascade sunamps so you charge one up fully and then swop to next one It probably fall down on costs anyway --but it,s worth a bit more digging first

why bandage? just glass over ,apply a bandage first if you like to give more thickness at change in shape. are you not intending to do it all in one session anyway? -or do a section over the joint first then just glass over the whole roof ,wet it out well and the glass will conform to shape no problem

worth a conversation with them at some point -- my other idea of 10,000litre tank would weigh over 10tons

maybe I talk to sunamp and see how large a unit they are going to make and cost ? no maybe that won,t work as i think i remember you saying your 9kw unit weighs 150kg even if i went for half that storage ,co there will be usable heat outside and partial recharging through out the year but even 50%would be 8 x150 kg