scottishjohn

are all the people suffering from this problem on well water ?

viewing your picture again it looks like the stuff that kinked is a flat cable --not round --maybe its more prone to kinks

you must be taking from inside of roll you sure there is not a way to take it off outside and let the roll turn inside box ?last one i had it came through side of box and it unrolled itself

I would say talk to your architect -he will know -

https://www.siga.swiss/global_en/catalog/dockskin/dockskin primer required for some surfaces to use with the tape surely nudura can advise on correct tape for EPS

so can we take it that the contract was to submit a planning application with relevent drawings etc. he could argue he has done that and as the fee was due on submission of the application that sort of backs that up the fact it then needed to be reworked to get it passed is where the extra cost are coming from in his way of thinking . as @AnonymousBosch. points out where was the quote for the extra works ,or at least a letter making you aware of further costs.

my architect gave me his terms and condtions and cost in writing for me to sign when i engaged him same with my solicitor maybe different in scotland --but that happens every time I get solicitor to do work for me of this nature

the importance of a written contract again -

then no problem being in the loft then -unless it not quite sealing correctly

If its not got a lintel --it should have ,and as you say its load bearing then you need to know

GO AND MAKE SURE ALL YOUR BLOCKS ARE COVERED AND DRY

the operative word being HELP. me I would just wait having had some crumbly concrete in the past,just on the surface - https://www.cemex.co.uk/managing-mortar-in-extreme-conditions.aspx https://www.cement.org/learn/materials-applications/masonry/masonry-contractors'-corner/cold-weather-masonry-construction

if not a vented loft --maybe could get smells ? can you get an inline AAV and then have a ducted pipe through wall up under gutter but have a "y "piace in loft with cap for rodding ?

theres your answer then --just wait

that will depend on your roof system -and if it is ventilated ridge etc, my way you will add strength to the ceiling joists as well as will the over boarding

the system I saw the roof panels had metal outside skin and internal and edges was where the purlins were --so a direct contact between inner and outer skin but with the mass of insulation it works fine ,and we are not talking about exposure to outside temps --just the loft the amount of heat loss through fixing screws is hardly measurable - -but ok screw purlins to your joist and then gorilla glue or no nails on top flange and just drop sheets on them -even quicker and no thermal bridge and maybe a screw every 1 m-not sure it even needs that once things have set to do whole loft with those legs at 600mm spacing in all directions will be very time consuming and you will need hundreds of them -- you need 15 for every 2.4x1.2 sheet + a shed load of screws they are meant to make a little island not complete floor area ,the fact they list the load they can take says it all

good luck with that .LOL unless they fitted dwangs between them

if PIR is correct tight fit it won,t take much to hold it up -- if not tight fit then it will let heat out and cold in through the gaps at the sides

wood top +bottom is very good insulator and metal will not be cold cos its surrounded in insulation ,so same temp as it weather screen with cold water on one side is nothing like the same , but hey do what you like ,but if you doing whole loft it will cost you a lot more and be far more work to do kingspan have no problem making commercial roof systems using metal purlins in the system with insulation around them

NO on top of the purlins will be the lid (flooring ) of the loft storage area -with all space below full of insulation

but they will be warm from the insulation surroundung them --so not a problem

new or s/h "z" purlins use full length or cut them into short lengths and fix chip board to them --would be a lot cheaper than loft legs to do all your loft I think just a another choice

as already said a picture of roof build up will clarify what you have As i understand it rafters then blanket,then battons ,then slates will make it a cold roof -as your insulation is on the underside of your roof ,so keeping loft warm and the actual roof would be cold ? the cold + damp area area is above your rafters? I am guessing from description that your roof is not sheeted with OSB on rafters --just space blanket draped across them and taped joints and acting as a water barrier as well ? confusing isn,t it a rough drawing of the make up of roof will make it all clear

I have it below my suspended ground floor to seal off the joists and stop heat loss from my retro fit UFH above when i do my yearly check to make sure its all taped up still i open up a litle corner to get my fingers in and it is very much warmer than the space below floor where i am sitting It does work .but is it as good as solid pir?--Idoubt it ,providing the pir is well taped and sealed but for some places its a good easy solution

ok --but that does not stop all the heat loss into your concrete floor , so what ever you do you should think about some sort of insulation beteween you and the foundations . have no doubts -- the ufh will work but not as good as it could do if you altered the floor and you still free up wall space from having rads