scottishjohn

shutter it and use readymix ? I,ve got 400yds and although it was tarmac60 years ago I am getting the feeling there will not be much left of it by time I get all cleared --i know its granite base undeneath ,so my guesstimate is i would need 160cum to give 100mm thickness --,just do it in bits --maybe ok with 75mm due to base --time will tell 160cu @£80 cum =£12800+my labour to lay it

why you waitng -? nothing going to change very soon

get it sheeted up , or it could suffer in the long term

the way my petrol station was made --to make it hard for people to break in concrete panels --then a tar boiler and flooded with tar ,then polystyrene insulation 120mm thick ,then felt on top ,then chips -with a slight slope to one side where it ran to a gutter villians tried to dig through the roof --gave up when they got to concrete however I was not aware of this for a long time only when i went on roof to get on top of petrol forecourt canopy ,to clean the gutters -once a year job did I find thid great big hole in the felt and a big lump of the insulation gone It never leaked one bit ---cos they had sealed all the concrete roof panels with the hot tar that had been poured on. So my guess, if it is concrete slabs, is that there was never a good sealing coat of hot tar before the insulation and felt was laid . If you are going to have to strip it all back then yuo know what to do --good old tar boiler and flood the concrete panels with it

not saying don,t use a coupler,probably fine --but if worried about seal -use that along with tigerseal when it comes maybe?

if you wan to test it -so your happy join a couple of bits leave a couple of hours or overnight and try to split them - and just push them half way in -and see the grip you get

looks like a job for the tigerseal -plenty of time to mess about

will be good to throw on an oil pill on concrete -then crush it --brush it later -oil all gone

like this https://www.archiproducts.com/en/products/leipfinger-bader/thermal-insulating-clay-block-unipor-w07-coriso_117261 this one says 0.06W/mk vlaue

used to be that we got paid for the old oil but now they charge us to take it away ,so its quite useful to have a purpose for it now

my favorite addative is old engine oil --burns with very little smoke -

if using pir use £16 a sqm as a quide-all depends on thickness --a good starting point

yes it will --but you need to start it with something else-and just keep adding it

burn them

looks like what I put on the floor in workshop to absorb fluids

pprobabl y southern europe where cooing insummer is more of an issue ,as they don,t use lots of insulation on those builds

so the only real adavantage is speed of build -If you first row right --eg saving on labour is that a good sumation of it so why has it been a preferred method in europe for so many years in some areas?

looking at diagram you get free water down the sprinkler route as it by passes meter --that don,t seem right

15mm osb sounds a bit over the top when you will have batons at std spacing 11mm should be fine

another system to investigate

its not just that think they reckon that 20% of a block wall is mortar --so little insulatin value --thin joint nearly all wall is insulated block

I bought the oregon cordless at start of my major site clearing operation I have to say it has been as good as you really could expect cutting 14" sycamore,ash etc --blackthorn not to happy with (hard as hell) biggest tree a 20+" 60ft sycamore I have the 6amp batteries --and they last around 50mins-1hr15,depending on how much you lean on it and what you are cutting -to be honest 2 batteries worth on sloping ground is enough for an old man in a day but it is not a direct swop for a petrol saw i have found -- so if garden work,logs on saw horse --it will be fine most annoying thing is the anti kick back auto shut off --but maybe just me asking too much of it---but makes it very safe for most users would I buy again for sensible use -yes-on my third chain for site clearance -- - NO

not if you never going to need it --which if one ohuse you will not and if you build another the water board will want it to have its own suppy -not joined on to yours

I have water running through the grounds of the house --but it looks like its just a stone culvert bringing csurface water from above and i know that nearly dries up in summer and if it is stone culvert and it collapses then I, mback to sqaure one --Isuspect it is coming from the little quarry avoe the plot just to the left -so its reeally surface water again

thought of that -- but no one will warranty results as it relies on you hitting a crack in the rocks --cos we know its solid granite and whinstone right to sea level no gravel or shale layers here smoke house hole is along way from the quarry --i,m not much over 10yards from the quarry wall where it is issuing from --admittedly at floor of quarry some 300ft+ below me