scottishjohn

the only advantage a GSHP will have over anASHP is if we had winters where it was -20c for months ,like canada and some parts of europe - when the better COP ratio of using the heat in the soil . in worst winter here ASHP could be close to a cop 0f 1+ --but that will only be for a few days ,then add all the extra expense ---so unless you have a lake you can dump your slinky into very easily ,then I cannot see a good reason to go GSHP no need in uk to use anything but ASHP and if a very modern insulated hosue then you won,t need monster heating anyway do the numbers and you will see

should be down that road to morrow -will get a picture of my stones

If we are comparing stones --I know i,m gonna win .LOL things that the 14ton digger can only roll about --just can,t lift them and some it can hardly even move .

I,m confused -- but bottom to top? ypu mean from outide to inside? you got drawings I can see no reason why MGO board would invalidate warranties when used as fire protection -

can you check the gyproc "white book" and see if layers of staggered PB will give you the fire proof time you need we had to do this when i split my workshop into units 19mm plank ,then fireline board ,then another layer of fireline --all joints staggered. I canm,t see why MGO boards which if you check has an "A" rating won,t do -then cover in pb if not a hard plaster finish

cement board behindPB? or MGO board

some of your boulders at bottom to act as a temporary dam while you fill up above them + compact it ?

so this is a ditch to be filled with gravel as a sloping soak away or is there a pipe to go in it then back filled

a slap on the wrist and maybe a "letter of comfort " ,think mine was about £50 from council talk to them

in scotland --yes you need a building warrant

you lot are really cheering me up I got ivy everywhere on walls across the ground -all over I was hoping to use a very strong mix of glyphosphate .I know farmers reckon best way for bracken etc is to spray it in sptmember as it starts to take the juice back down into the root -so it takes the weed killer with it ,as ivy don,t really do that -that will not make much difference

s/h one here --just need to flush out with degreasr https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10000-LITRE-2200-GALLON-DIESEL-STORAGE-TANK-BAUSER-2590MM-DIAMETER-2444MM-HEIGHT/164186750431?hash=item263a4afddf:g:bWkAAOSwu6tesX8e or new ones at around £1200-£1300 you would need to bury these types of tanks really --so they don,t freeze

Ihave never heard of the need for a fire tank ? is this something new if you are off grid or remote from mains supply

yes I got that problem when I run power down to my pump station at bottom of hill and water pipe up --needs to be seperate trenchs ,but as its not DNO that is doing that i will use minimum sensible distance -maybe one wider trench ? 400 m --so will need to have some joins in both pipe and cable

when Iasked about a supply they would not let me lasy the cable -all i could do was dig the thrench and htye lay it and last 20m cthey laya conduit and then want owatch use back fill it with suitable pea gravel etc. So I would ask some more detailed questions ,but ilike @ProDave solution

It don,t work like that --you will be paying CGT on the 2 houses you can,t just build 2 houses and keep all the profit and use it to build the 3rd one -you will have tax to pay on them only way round that is to build one --live in it for some time --as your only home --sell it ,then no tax - then build another do same again -then build your final one my accountant tells me you need to have it as your residence for a year to be sure HMRC will not query it amd |i expect you would need to split the title into 3 units --take legal tax planning advice on this and of course you will need 3 seperate water + electric supplies and sewerage systems

ilooked ta the link you provided I see no simple or cdheap opton and no certainty if you sp[ent mega legal expenses you would get it anyway you say you NEED to cross cut -- why would widening the exsisting access not suffice? its not going to be cheap what ever you do .if indeed there is any other way could you buy one of the houses --alter the lane -then sell it again with reduced land? If you expect the local authority to just change its mind then its going to need a lot pressure from councillors to do that- bottom line is how much are you willing to spend to sort this problem -- maybe a they will grant you a temporary access ,if it was for doing building work -but a new permanent access --not a prayer unless you going ot give them a huge payment and have the councillors on your side --same as "tesco " do when they fail planning - by building asomething new for the local area

that I feel is your only real solution in the long term do any of the other properties use it ? who maintains it ? is there a deal with them to widen if you make it a proper road and they have no maintainence costs--

so thats another positive for woodcrete blocks --use anything on it you would use on a brick wall I did not realise that poly block need soemthing different

or use mortar and stick stone to it ? like tiling only vertical If you were closer I would suggest some nice granite .LOL but maybe cotswold stone ?

Iwould ask for that to be included in quotes you get from suppliers. eg price of blocks price of hire of bracing they will certainly have it or access to hiring it I take you have sent a plan to all the suppliers you are looking at ,cos you will need more than 1 type of block -they should be able to give you quote for the exact number of the different types of blocks you will need

If I go ICF --lots of things s with my site which are to be decided yet then it will be ISOTEX -durisol only if they are significantly cheaper- the width of blocks vary quite alot -so you need to decide which side is going to be flat as you build-and the surface rinnsh is alot more open than ISOTEX Isuppose other big hting is that the woodcrete are pourous ,so the concrete drys out -sets quicker than poly especially if its a sloppy mix -so bottom firms up quicker and less hydraulic pressure to burst things if you really hammer on pouring quickly close second is poly system ISODOM sold in uk by econeckt they have already said bracing will be free loan ,I like the number of different block types they do and the size of them and thier locking lugs,downside is the concrete fill is 150mm and ISOTEX is 120mm -cost saving I do not have a site size problem so thickness of wall is not a problem and i quite like ther idea of doing all the elec .plumbing etc chased into the walls ,then straight on with the plaster suppose it depends how sure you are of spec of house beofre you start to see if PB and service viod is an advantage or just more expense I like the woodcrete cos no bracing required other than screwing some plywood on at corners and maybe a few other bits check ther ISOtex videos -they build all walls and pot them and concrete roof in one go--you could not do that with poly --so to me that says its inherrently more stable I,m sure all systems work -

you have a wall bracing system -for when you pour? that is not an option it is a must with poly block systems and as for the dpc what @Conor says is one way --again look at your detailed plans for this detail It would not be my choice of how to do it all depends on type of floor -is it a slab or supended

and what price for the bracing hire you will need with the poly system

belt and braces --no need in uk --we don,t have earth quakes