scottishjohn

first thing are they a std size --door and frame -measure

don,t like how those types of it go grey --so not worth the money to me

and thats why iwould go for anything but wood --Idon,t want to be treating every couple of years

you would do the same with cement board

If there is a gap it will get behind what ever facia type you use

then you could use"hardie" planking (cement board) any colour you like ,fixs like wood which will be my choice

how is piston fitted to rod --circlips or sweated on-.me i would go for new piston -- do not assume its std size it may have been rebuuilt and re- bore before measure piston size I have a 50ton press and experience --so no problem but if sweated on maybe rings is a better call for you

what is it worth if not working ? how much dioes it weigh ?-scrap only your decompressor is working __as in it does release the valve when to make compression when you drop it Iknow when we sold my brothers one they were fighting for it as it had elc start .LOL correction --Iremembered wrong 39.3thou to 1MM

1mm =38.7thou --so your rinmgs are just plain worn out --probably due to the esay atrt --zero lundbrication - then add no one has given a crap about chanign the oi lfor 50 years and theres yuor excessive wear ,which will mean low ring pressure on the bore as well basic rrule of thumb is 4thou per inch of bore -more for a highly streesed and hot running turbo motor . it is allways advisable to measure ring gap and file if they are too tight -something alot of people miss or think they are gapped at factory . my guees is new rings in that old bore they will be wider due to bore wear --but not 3mm=120thou If you getting picky then the grooves should not be worn EG about 4thou max wider than ring . I would not clean out piston ring groooves until you try new rings inthem first ,or even the carbon off the top or sides of the piston ,but maybe a new piston is not expensive anyway. you maybe find new piston comes with rings anyway

yep --its like a drug # it will remove all the oliy buld up around the pistons+ rings ,so they become a loose fit-- that biuld up of carbon and oily reisdue is good on an old engine it makes up for wear -blow that off with the big "knock" you get when it fires up and thats where your comp has gone probably --bad piston and ring fit -cylinder leakage test would have shown that before stripping too much of the "drug" and you can bend a con rod. If it had an elctric start you could spray it from a distance at the air filter and feed it in --but a squirt on an engine that is stopped is not good I will use it if really required ,but my favorite is propane from a plumbers torch thats not lit- put torch in air filter and turn it on then crank engine an engine will run on gas --quite often use it when changing a diesel filter --some are a real pain to bleed through ,butane will work as well--but NEVER oxygen -that will blow the head clean off diesel or petrol it works

my brother had one like that --and as he is even older than me -hand cranking was not good so i machined a saxo gearbox bell housing with a starter motor on it to get rid of all the actual gearbox -attached it and a saxo flywheel to the lister one --fitted a battery +bingo electric start

If you have not taken head off yet and have access to compressed air and can make upan adaptor to feedi ncompressed air through and injector hole then get cengfine ontdc with vlaves shut on cylinder you are testing -put it ingear and block wheels .appl y90psi and listen to see where its going --up the inlet manifold ,out the exexhaust or icoming out if oil breahter . by doig this you will know what you need before you strip it looking ta istripped your bound to see things that are worn ,but they maybe are not your problem .this way you know where yuor comp is going . if you can borrow a proper cylinder leakage tester ,then unless its over 20% leakage it will be fine once its going - perfect engine will be around 4% could be simple as a vlave stuck open

simple they fit meter -read it at same time as normal one -if itshows usage theyt charge you Ican,t see the cost for water on the insurance claim for a burnt house being a big in the scale of things without meter its just asking to be be abused

my brother had a customer for his hoilday let ,who when they came decided it was no good ,cos thier old dog could not climb stairs --and they expected a full refund 2 chances of that slight and none even though details clearly show it is 3 storey

that sounds like it is being treated as farm land ,where you can build a house for a small holding ,but now you have to prove you can make enough from the land to make it a "sustainable" biusness usual guide lines used by our council is 60acres for sheep and cows etc I suppose if you could prove you were going to have big green houses to grow veg and sell --then maybe ,but they would them them built first.before any habitation of house takes place

but if not applying for 3 supplies there could be more costs late rto connect to other houses,thats all I,m highlighting --ask more questions once you make real application you hsould get a drawing shoqwing all lines they are installing and where they terminate --could be all are quoted for is power line to site ?

so is the 23k for a supply to one uniit or all three ? and do they know its to supply 3 units

I would have jusat used the tigerseal as the lubricant and sealer all in one go -not just applied a bead to outer edge as you seem to have done as long as it works

hope you cleaned all the silicone gel off before using the tigerseal --if it leaks it will be because the surface was not clean ,notihng else that stuff sticks like sxxt to a blanket

If mon ey is a problem --build 2 now and third later and have mains power

I may not be scotish by birth -but by inclination i am

then build a purpose dog shower somewhere--even better selling point

same goes for the advice to wash hands under running tap how you going to get a lather if you running water on hands all the time wet hands -use soap for 20seconds then dip to remove it ,then running water to rinse off while sink drains

I don,t see how turn on shower let it run warm ,get in --get wet ,then use shower gel -but turn shower off while lathering up --or it just washes off the gel before it has time to be woorked properly -then turn it on again -staret from top and work areas downwards -- this method came about from being very oily and greasy from being a muckhanic and head +hair could need 2 goes to remove all the crud then repeat with different areas of body --no way it uses more than a bath to wash

no horizontal cylinder is gong to work as well as a vertical one- technically you need a tall one to get thermal layering ,which allows better heat filling of the cylinder as transfer coil is always in area with lowest temp water. It is used with great effect in solar thermal systems where you also have a normal high temp heat coil from another heat source in the same vessel but solar coil is always at lowest point,as hottest water will always rise to the top . yes it will work but not be as good . think where the input and outputs are cold in at lowest point --hot outlet at top further apart they are they less mixing of cold and hot in tank as you draw off the hot water