scottishjohn

is there any cost advantage in building your own I say cos I went to an auction and part of the room contents were loads of packs of the metal work for making joists - 300mm +450mm any interest to any one/

connected with a timer to light switch so it runs even after you have vacated -proper toilet exact fans have them built in, so you just hook up to light switch

agreed ,but if elec supply cost are painfully high --then in reality by using it you would be getting a vlaue of 15p ?a unit but thst still only £1000 ish I looked at an off grid 20kw system with self start gen +batteries etc £30-40k so cost for connection needs to be very high to be a winner

put your own meters in the holiday lets -you ,ll make more money that way I think

draw some plans up and the forum will give you help no doubt

35 x300w ? 10.5kw not really commercial and will your DNO allow you to pump that much back in , not even enough to really run a house off grid even with batteries -- no money to made there why do you say commercial not really big enough for any commercial solar comapny to be interested in when I looked at the jetty the 30 acres was going to be 3 mw when i first looked they would do a PPA scheme where they paid me 25K a year for 20 years -then rate dropped and now only interested if i had big users very close ,so they could do a 10year deal to sell to them

basically same as private how big a ssytem there are some companies that will do a deal on supplying a pv system if its big enough and if they can get supply contracts with very local users ,so then you could be getting a much bigger rate eg your rent them space and they pay you a yearly fee ,but would want a 20 year lease and they find local big users to buy it

Maybe me being thick but why to what purpose do you want to divide up the area for neither side have tiered front areas ,so you will be needing to build end walls as well

don,t say you were not warned to check your info first

not so in scotland that is the first problem with getting planning for my site saying my access road is a disued track that joins onto a "u" road and want all the thingsthat you would if joining to any other roadwith a new plot even to needing 5m of tarmac back up my road at the join and drainage to make sure no water comes from my road onto thier road. and I need to get a warrant too pen up the joining of the road best of it is If i go to 1800 map it shows my "track " as the only road there and an intergral part of the u road ,which was why i was trying to find the old road number for it I would suggest you ask them a question .

before you do that -- does it have a road number "u" something if not then I doubt it will be any problem ,but if a numbered one then lines of sight and drainage etc will need to be to spec

dum & gal has a list of current U roads but not ones that are no longer maintained

Ok got it -wood is fixed to the inbuilt furring strips which will take the weight of the wood Iwas imagining the bolts just suported in the poly block itself-

and thenyou swopped for correct dimension beam after concrete pour? that i understand -you are really just making a jig to hold concrete fixings in correct postion ? but he is complaining beams are bent and worried that they will distort his wall which to me says he is trying to tighten it all up now before the pour

it is not now but it was a "U" road --they are trying to infer it was never a road and unmettaled ,which it is not- its got old tarmac ,which iam gradually and carefully trying to expose they are even asking for passing places --the current U road which it joins to which only goes to kirkambreck farm ,has no psssing places --so they are asking me to build itto a different standard than the road they currently maintain I can go to lots of maps right back to 1800,s which show road to quarry +kirkmabreck house ,or quarry house as it was known ip to 1803 and none to farm --cos it was not there then . Just want to find the old U number for the road

strips of plywood or osb to fix your bolts to Iwould be suprised if your ICF without concrete would hold your big wallplates anyway- if its a poly type and how you going to keep bolts incorrect postion to incenter of the concrete . your just trying not to have to drill concrete -- sorry i think you doing it wrong and making possible problems for yourself later -pour the wall ,then fit the wallplates

my planning has gone in and roads are now giving me problems cos the say it is a "disused track"-and totally over grown and impassable and it needs to be a sealed road--shows how upto date they are even though it is or was tarmaced and in full use in the 1970,s I can remember seeing an old map on line somehwere where it gave the road numbers on both the one that is current and the spur which goes to my house ,which in the past was also a "u" road - -in the fifties there 70 people working there andi nthe early part of the 19th and late part of the 18th century it was over 400 people of course the councilwebsite does not show any deleted "u roads "that were deleted before 195,which was when they went computerised any body got an idea where i can find an old list ot old maps that will show it

me i would send them all back and get them when you have walls poured so you can fix them before they start moving about

if you heat it to dry a wet car ,then you need ot ventilate it to get rid of the moisture MVHR sounds like something a footballer has for his mc claren

Iwoulld not be happy with a grp sill that has to withstand traffic --yes its strong but grp will wear very easily grp to water prooof it then maybe cover the bit that gets driven on with s/s or ally ?

DW110 --that brings back memories of the 70,s I used to make and sell custom speaker cabinets in exchange +mart using one, no internet or ebay then it was that and making kitchen units that funded my first garage .that and selling 8 track car units on there -my bedroom at home was full of them -had to but 200 at at time to get price right - using conti board which was really chipboard wrapped in fablon like material --or real wood veneer it was so accurate i could do a 45 angle cut from both sides,not cutting the wood grain plastic facing , then fold the conti board to make a cabinet. cut rebates inboth ends for the speaker carrier board and back lid and send as a kit for the DIY hi-fi nerds to build thier own biggest ones i did -a special order -were 6ft tall and 3ft wide and 2ft deep -with another cabinet2"smaller to fit inside -which he was going to fill the gap with sand never heard the outcome of it

think about the fance maybe you can make post holes you drop the fance into fater you built it? If not i would make it smaller to get trhe space --your call

why would you build it so close to boundary 500mm+ in and you can just about get to it to build it anyway you choose,and maintain it in future

who built your ICF then

the old saying!! "the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten" I have had a few talks with frazer and If i go poly type ICF ,then izodom is top of my list the only way you will know real pricing is to send your plans to your favoured possible suppliers and get a real quotes for supply only to site or supply +build don,t forget to ask about the bracing --is is it included or extra just getting a price pr sq m could be misleading