scottishjohn

surely your blocks must be same depth as the beams? a picture of your suggested build of floor please this detail surely is noted on your plans

any magic cures for roots in drains .other than the obvious way of digging them up

seems sunamp are still using "tombstone technology " like aero industry did at start of jet era ---when enough wings fall off -time to upgrade them not doing themselves any favours long term for sales especially when cost of these peripherals is so little in overall cost of the system

send plan to suppliers to get a correct quote for what you need -just a price per sqm will not be accurate you wouldn,t expect a TF supplier to quote without a plan --its no different

even the wife can drive it --if pushed first problem with it last week --a puncture hardly a surprise when you see where i been with it

having bought one benford dsr3000 swivel tip -which was probably not the cheapest --but first class condition and also air cooled engine --no freeze problems things to check --does the hand brake and indeed the brakes work --expensive to fix as they are inside the axle units and not working on most old s/h ones and on flat sites they never bother to fix them 4wd -wouldn,t consider any thing else swivel tip is very handy but depending on site not essential i needed swivel tip to make up sides of my road iwth rock do you need one to fill a skip --thats a different thing again . I see you have several acres --did you get a felling license ? you can only remove trees less than 4" in diameter without one measured at 1.3m for gorund and the fine is £1500 and then they can make you replant - there is also a thinning licnese which allows up to 40% removal of trees without replanting worth a talk with forestry man to see if you need one maybe the bottom line is they do ont want to loose any forest cover at all -and a few acres will not be classed as a garden you can remove up to 5 cum of wood per 4months without a license and iwhtout replanting requirement

plan with dimensions ? so this house will have no vehicular access when finished?-just a foot path of 1m wide. that is shared access. and surrounded by neighbours good luck with that -- you can forget working at weekends or at night --they will be complaining and getting you stopped by council and having you restricted to normal working hours for making noise not really trying to upset you have you had a valuation by estate agent of value of this house when built and ease of selling it you may want to do that now and see if it is worth doing ?

its certainly in my plans to laeve aspace to install a lift some time in futre when stairs are too much #1.5mx 1.5m which can be used as cupboards in the mean time but floors designed for it at the outset got ot be 2 levels to get best from the views

get as big a dumper as you can -a micro one will not move much at a time -hire prices might not be much different . same goes for digger been checking hire rates here and 3t digger is £270+vat a week . 6ton is £350+vat big difference in what they can do I bought a dumper for my job 3ton swivel --and the hired digger, a 14t one over filled it in 3 bucket loads, if soil and about 3-5mins to do it the 14t digger was 2.7m wide --so if you will have a gate , so any smaller digger you get will get on site maybe getting your entrance sorted and hard cored would be a good place to start -then access will not be a problem getting delivery trucks and things stuck in the mud would not be ideal -must be soft site if you need screw piles is where my thinking is coming from

it is a serious consideration how he can replace fridges etc in time to come not just getting them in once

I will definately have gone towards too much when i did it .lol but no problems so far

I can see the attraction for DIY and also if the surface is not totally flat to start with but probably comes down to getting the prep and the base surface right before any tiling starts I know i had a problem with 600mm tiles on my wooden suspended floor over my ufh - my fault made the assumption that it would be flat all over as it was chipboard --only when i started did i find some floor beams were not same height caused dips etc i should have checked better and got it flat before commencement of tiling the result was I used twice the flex adhesive i should have done to fill in undulations get all things level and edges all correct 20 years on it all still fine and yes for my job they would have been very helpful measure 3 times, mark twice ,cut once needless to say i won,t get caught that way again

yes that would be my thought -how you going to replace these units when they die in years to come @Russell griffiths has a genie he was wanting to sell--2k if i remember right -and sink it into the floor make it permanent fixture ? not sure how you get that down there though --"not a packet of peanuts" -to quote snatch cheap chinese scissors lift for pallets ?

basically if you buy and replace roof --could you resell and get all or most of your your money back --if not the price is wrong that would be my view

Idon,t know where it is --but terraced houses would give a better return maybe?--you will get a lot more with less materials

If its make money ,then i agree with all that has been said when i was considering selling my house --estate agent asked me If icould remove the solar panels easily ,as that would reduce interest and value for profit go for basic required insualtion levels and if you have the choice -then mains gas heating are these going to be a row of semis houses --if So i thinkthat ICF like durisol or isotex will be a good choice --but you need to send finished plans to suppliers as that is the only way they can quote you correctly and maybe will suggest slight changes to make them hceaper/ easier to build bound to be discount if you are buying more at one time certainly if you built them all at once - -the walls =founds that is then there should be good savings on the concrete and pump hire charges as well proper finished plans -send to suppliers and ask for quotes and suggestions on how to do it cheaper would be my view even if you can only afford to do the founds+-services and walls at first go --that will be cheapest way to do it for sure in the long run-certianly at least all founds and services then you half way there --no more diggers and mud plugging and get hardcore road in If your council are like mine they will not allow occupation in ANY of them till roads are up to council spec if you have to make roads +drainage etc

anyone now of godd plant insures for self build

you personal opinion is noted certainly not the case with my system -each zone has its own 7 day programmer+thermostat in room I doubt new house will be as complicated with MVHR and gaps under doors etc -zones will be much simpler -so heat source is only turned on and pumps only run when that zone calls for heat which activates both pump+heat source as for being an expensive option --not as expensive as you suggest considering the high spec and efiecent plate heat exchange +2 bronze pumps +all control circuitry+high class plumbing +filters+expansion vessel +pressure gauge which it comes complete with all you have to supply is one electric supply +one cold feed then just connect to your DHW+heating circuit and i doubt any plumber /electrician would ever get all the bits in as compact a unit and so that you can get at everything for service plus if you have problems then same man to repair all the ASHP system + its associated bits all you have is a simple wifi or hard wired panel for you to control everything about it new house when built I will be looking at same thing again and comparing with other units on the market at that time -that has a proper service network backup -I will not be wanting to guddle about with heating systems in my 80,s cheap basic ASHP + cheapest tank and pumps etc etc will not be on my list this is my personal view on the subject "the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"

this was my choice for fitting to house - not a new one I already had UFH but was changing from LPG boiler heat source and still use part of my old system control --as in zone valves and timers for each room -been very happy with it

I found a man with a set and have been cleaning it out all day ,but it was successful eventually + his set returned

other than what comes out of the walls of the quarry below water level

SODS LAW my culvert that runs under the road is 2 part a 6 "cast iron pipe down the middle ,that is placed inside a larger stone duct Ihave found that the iron pipe is full of sand which has gathered up over the lats 60-100years but its 15m long --and I only have one set of drain rods -*8m --looking all round friends to find one with a set to me thats the sort of thing any MAN should have -- but i forgot they all borrow mine .and i,m not really wanting to buy another set . to use just this one time .If i had power i could use my karcher jetting attachment -- that can drill through crap --so it would certainly get sand moving . even a simple job gets complicated when at a distance. such is life

when i can get the water tested and if it comes back treatable --then yes it is the cheapest and simplest answer seems this - https://www.freeflush.co.uk/collections/drinking-water-filters/products/hydroinfinity-integrated-drinking-water-treatment-console and a storage tank plumbed so it is flushed continually by stream the water course has to be repaired anyway no matter what. I splashed out on a water diviner today to see what the chances are for a well and he found a good source . so it will now come down to numbers once I get the water test enviromental health are not doing that at this time due to ---you guessed it --corvid 19 Its hard to get exact figures -so many variables well --which I will try to itemise better -depending on depth could be similar to bringing mains up from road - but that depends of SW price to give me supply the quarry site could just pump it from the lake -dependant on water test -but as there are already quite a few wells on same hillside i think the water test will come back good or from mains The Glebe is the same -difference is they won,t need a BIG pump station due to not being as high up I have a tame dyker --but the retaining wall is nearly 1m thick he is making unconvicing noises at this time . maybe I make the wall lower and make a bigger slant on the banking the water pipe is in , which goes to the channel I think the channel will become a pond eventually anyway

picces as requested of current set up comes in through the wall goes underground to stone culvert which as been connected in past to those those badly aligned concrete pipe ,then down a stone chimney in the damaged retaining wall then across the courtyard in a a deep channel then under road and down the quarry side to the lake

taking what @PeterW is saying as correct , and its sounds right maybe you should put some more rubber roofing on the legs of the decking boards so they cannot over time damage the roof by movement of the decking or another layer laid loose over the first one under where decking is I seriously doubt rubber roofing was ever meant to be a surface to take lots of traffic or physical abrasion to repeat from another of my posts :- a local hotel had a roof covering like this next to the beer garden and crows were bringing food up from the tables to the roof and pecking at it -- to a point where they punctured it if crows can puncture it then things on it could also cause punctures the roof was redone with GRP