scottishjohn

NO I do not have any first hand experience of them yet there are people on here who have used them but that type of flooring will be my choice when I get there best for UFH ,easiest to clean ,hard wearing --

or porcelain tile planks that look like wood ? example https://www.porcelainsuperstore.co.uk/oslo-grey.html?qty=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImquRn8a-6wIVj-3tCh0EEQQREAQYAiABEgLAtfD_BwE#fo_c=1485&fo_k=ac2754396c980e4ec9329a2d90e6a1dd&fo_s=gplauk&fo_oid=4744

just my view but looking at your picture of the outside cladding I can see why they are not happy you have gaps between the cladding which will allow water and sunlight to enter --this I think will degrade any normal hose wrap as it is made from things that are not totally UV stable for long periods I could be wrong --but I would ask the maker of the house wrap you intend to use if it would ok LONGTERM with some UV penetration all the time ,same goes for the batons ,they will get wet when it rains to my mind you would need an extra water proof and Uv stable layer on top of the batons directly under the cladding at least or use man made batons --not wood -assuming the house wrap can take some long term UV . bit expensive but you could use grp -same as you would for a roof instead of the house wrap and galv or plastic batons maybe? sips are a good system ,but water and OSB do not get on long term .maybe use sips with exterior face made from MGO-and seal all joints when building OR clad batons with MGO -then paint it ,then fit your larch strips ? don,t forget to vent it so there is an airflow between it and you house wrap

just hope they don,t freeze --and then you get a thaw at surface --then rain --where is the water going to go ? thats one of the reasons you have them at 600mm down

its obvious from what you have said that the insulation is your main problem --on floor and the main frame of the building dig out your plans and all spec of things you can and post them up so we can see what and how much insulation and maybe one of the guru,s will do a heat loss calculation then get an independant engineer to look at the building and plans -- then you will know for sure the root of your problem this has to be your next step before spending money on solar pv etc

y es. my garage was steel frame and blocks --very rough finish ,so were suggested and used a special 2 part under coat which sealed it all and filled in surface holes --then one coat of gloss paint --still shines now 30+ years later . years later I split in to 3 units and just used silk emulsion I was suprised again how it just sucked it up - but seems to be as good a finished job --just not as cleanable like true gloss paint ,but would be fine probably for a domestic garage. a modern masonry paint will be better to clean, I think but will cost more used an airless industrial sprayer -used much more than I calculated due to blocks sucking it up ..540sqm !!

success with emulsion will depend how rough and porous the blocks are- and how good a finish you want its not the right thing --but may work if blocks are very smooth -masonry paint is the right stuff I would certainly leave it a week after first coat before applying next one

not legal for him to do that now any new treatment or septic tank to be registered and a log kept of emptying and must be done by someone with correct paperwork so he dumps contents at an approved site all depends for strict your local authority are going to be

and the valuation will need to be done by a surveyor --more expense your guess will not keep HMRC happy

all you need to do is have a clause to allow for service connections later

CGT only comes when he sells -- and the cost of making a trust and the limitations it would put on what you can do later --not a good idea if you make money you gonna pay tax --suck it up only things in life for sure are death ,taxs and relatives when there is a will

not as simple as that -maybe they are retired and taking a pension if so then a gain of that amount would put then into the 40% tax bracket stop guessing and get real advice and that can only be valid when you know when this transaction will happen --you cannot guess whats going to happen in ten years time -all sorts of changes could happen and considering the money that the government has spent on corvid --there will be some big tax rises coming for sure --especially oCGT and IHT

doubt it --speak to a solicitor

there are plenty of emulsify ing fluids - problem will to get it too all the contamination ,which you could never be sure of while the oil is in the ground. so has to be dug up and moved I was offered a petrol station by shell for FREE which had a similar problem cost to clean it up would have been approx 1.5m --so thats why they still own it -as long as they operate it and do not open up the ground it does not have to be done -

If you need one in a house --habitable area -why would you not need one in your new habitable heated area? I look forward to an experts reply you have not said what is happening to floor+ ceiling of this garage --- Is the garage constructed with a cavity wall --or just one layer of brick or block

I would fall out with him If he told me he charged by the day =--then thats it 4 days is 4 days unless he worked the extra hours in the four days to mean it was really 5 days but thats me I expect people to be like me and stick to a deal -and if he is charging by the day --then all you could really complain about is if he was working very slow maybe different where you are --but here not getting a fixed price is asking to be taken for a fool

knees and right ankle are my sore points --but hope once i stiop being onthese damn bankings at 40 degrees they might stop complaining easy week on the body --hired a 3t digger --but major brain fade problems getting used to the controls and moving 3 things at one time -first time working a digger for me a lot harder than flying a plane its a new takiuchi 230 --very mouse powered is my impression of it - and the blade is not wide enough --tracks are slightly wider so if you are trying to flatten uneven ground the tracks can end on a high bit and that will tilt the blade and dig in more at one side,so you have to have 3 goes at same bit ot get it flat -middle -then left and right bit of a gimmick really I,m trying to scrape off all the old crap and roots of my roads down to old tarmac etc you would have thought by now they would have an auto dig or level function like set the depth and it keeps doing it all you have to is close the bucket and lift it out

I got a plaster like that but he is 74 now and i just hope he stays fit until i need him for the house LOL

yes but it might make things happen

and don,t forget to give him the branches back maybe thats the solution to the robina - -if tennant is suddenly told your going to dump all the branches in his garden from the over hanging tree --maybe he will get hold of the landlord for you or maybe just inject it with round up with a hypo needle at night

heating to 47c -- better make sure the ASHP anti legionella function is working --which means it will have to raise it to a high regularly-so I see little advantage in an over large tank just more volume to have to put up to the high temp,unless you are using free PV for it most of the time and tank VERY well insulated

my Tf house was built with an open fire ,which I had to line only because i changed to closed in unit ,then to a baxi bermuda gas fire and back boiler -which has now gone and i,m ASHP I,ve been here 30 years so it was built with an external fyfe stone chimney , but if an open fire you just build a proper chimney

that would work but would use 6x2 for the vertical brace instead of 4x2,seems alot more to do than just using extended joists which would attach to end of rafters , the 30cm upstand would not be needed or the short secondary brace. you could knock the outer row of bricks of and put joist through at same height as now and extend rafter down to meet it,but if not wanting to move any of old joists then yes it should work as you show,probably you could replace the short brace with 15mm osb triangles

look at any design for a modern TF 1/2 storey house and it will be built as i am suggesting bottom cord which is the ceiling joist of ground floor then studs set in and attached to bottom to give upstairs walls of approx 5ft at the ridge or close to it there will be another cross beam -what you fix ceiling to ,which also gives it all the strength it needs to go fully vaulted you need a ridge beam that goes full length of building to attach rafters to each side of it

put it on your cad and see how much space there is in upstairs if you you use 1.7m as min height you could put you upstands in from wall as well if you extended old joists -so have your internal walls where they would make sense + get your triangulation ,even if you don,t change the roof height or angle you seemed worried about the walls moving -by using floor joists tied to roof there will be no side load at all so no stress on old brick work have you got planning or this yet ?