scottishjohn

there will be a plan in local council showing all areas designated for housing and commercial development and that plan is reviewed every few years . so ring council and they should direct you to correct part of their website--or just hunt it yourself

If you doing it yourself i suggest you watch this video this guy is real professional joiner https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4Qy3uyaLmY

does spacing and corners at same time. will be using them on new house for sure . plenty of uk versions like vitrex --just was first vid i can across

If you new to tiling and getting stressed --then i suggest you think of using a tile levelling system --lots of different ones --heres a vid to show how some work definately takes the stress out of tiling

and you think EU companies are any better? . edinburgh tram fiasco!!! for example of course you believe EU politicians are honest --thats why no accountants have ever been able to balance the EU books not in 40 years !!!! every time they appoint one to do it +they find the "problems" in the finacial accounts ,they are terminated by the EU council If we going to have bent politicians better that they our ones that eventually do have to face up to it-like the "duck houses " expenses scandals eu employees are all at it and been getting away with it for years

its been so fxxxd up the only answer now is to get out--how can you sign up to something that says you can never ever get out+ don,t even have a vote !!! . its like the maastricht treaty that stopped us ever having a vote on captiol punishment--the point is we should allowed to at least have the choice. If not we are slaves --that,s not what i voted for when we joined the "common market " It might be hard to start with --but the future will only be better --this way it just keeps getting worse. just think if we could have only taken quotes from uk companies for all these wind turbines --employment and the subsidies would at least go to UK companies--and as WE are paying them from our electric bills thats only fair. rant over LOL

PP does that stands for proposed planning or planning proposal or full planning consent If its full( PP) planning permission you have then you will know exactly what you have to do to fullfill its requirements its all in the planning consent, II am suspecting its not full PP as disposal of sewerage would have to be shown on the plans,as would water +electric supply and to change that will mean more "imperial entanglement" and money +time

sounds like alot of unquantified possible costs there and some possibly wrong assumptions about you being able to join into sewers etc. I think you need to do some more homework first - -subsidence +trees could be another big money problem --can you remove the tree --is it protected ? subsidence could be lack of foundation as it is a farm building --so planning will ask for new one you could blow 20k in new foundations depending on ground condtions bats are definately a big problem --you need definative agreed solution before starting anything more homework is my advice before committing to hard cash. like an actual proper fully approved planning application --that will have to state what things they will allow you to do are you intending to flatten old barn and start again ? If you can it is quite often cheaper than trying to refurbish old things . where abouts is your site .

technically your blockwork should be airtight - so you could get air test done once windows +doors etc are fitted and fix any airleaks at that stage -but you still need a vapour barrier -which could be under plasterboard.

you mean its when it should be done --seen a few things on internet where it is done when house is complete ,and masses of sealer stuffed under skirtiing boards etc - which is why I posted

when i get to that stage it will be done before all drywalling is fitted --to make it simple to correct any problems if there are any

speaking from experience of UFH routed into chipboard flooring+tile floors --(20years ago) and living with the quick heat change it gives you It is bit of a 2 edged sword --our climate here is so changable --cold one day hot next -so house never overheats but can do big change in 1 hour or so-every room zoned. fine if you found some way to make people shut doors every time a wife that always wants windows open every day for a while no matter outside temp as the temp changes fast It can be good .cos you dont, loose that much heat when windows open+heating off and thenshe shuts them quicker . then it heats back up pretty quick . can only see a good reason for VERY thick thermal mass if you got MVHR and cheap off peak electric +ASHP to charge it up at right time she is still fighting me on MVHR for new build -a fight she,s maybe going to loose --

the suggestion to me today from sunamp --as i have not started new build ASHP -hightemp type 65c ,but only if you can get off peak cheap electric(lower COP from high temp type)--no thermal store -run UFH from ASHP now if no night time cheap electric then use normal low temp ASHP 40-45 and then a sunamp with a built in immersion booster element --to lift it over the threshold for phase change. Of course if you going PV as well then you can use excess from that to charge up the unit.. they say the cost of a sunamp to replace a 210litre thermal store is the same . i didn,t go into it any more as its next year before I will need it,and things may change

I had a good talk with sunamp this afternoon asking questions and getting some sensible answers about things I got the impression that ALL units would be upgraded very soon and they assure me they are on top of the problem . If you think they missed you I would email them ,they do reply to emails fairly promptly

thats cheap, it works out around £100 sqm. someone posted they had a quote for a complete sub slab insulation that hadformed sides on it which wrapped slab right out of the ground for that money

still the most expensive insulation i have ever seen

thats at least one problem i have never suffered from -both here in s/w scotland +manchester lovely soft water that makes a decent cuppa

sorry maybe my explanation It used to be 5 abr --but gradually dropped over a few years and now its a constant 2 bar --which icomplaine about they say that all they have to give me ,when Isaid my solar thermal need 3.5 bar -he said "thats my problem "-- not thiers If i need that then ishould fit a booster pump. he even argued that my guages was wrong and his siad it was 2.5 bar Iasked when his was last calibrated and even offered to do it for him --he idn,t like that and when ipointed out to him that i had 3 gauges in different parts of the system and they all read the same -and all dropped al ittle when taps were on he fell back on his statement --all we have to give is 2 bar measured on OUR gauge and its static pressure. feekin jobsworth

still won,t give me more than 2 bar --which is not the best garden hose in the world-yes i could fit anaccumlator -but hoping the larger volume in main lines will do the same -while i,m starting from scratch --accum can go onlater if needed. It could be totally different where my new site is --will depend if i,m highest on the the line like I am now time will tell the pressure don,t fluctuate much --just a bit low

I know why --we are in the country and still lots of old victorian cast water mains and they are trying to make them last longer. I fitted a water filter years ago due to rust in lines. a lot has now been replaced but still some and its also due to height differencs of people on the line --so if you are down hill you will get more ,but at top hill like I am --they want to keep it to minimum so lower down it don,t stress the old pipes. bean counters again--got to think about the dividends of all these politicans you know scottish water have not been allowed to charge water rates or insist on fittng meters like in england --not for domestic anyway

Ihad it regulated down to 3.5 --but then it dropped away ,so I complained- I said that to him about the PRV ,but he maintained that with high flow rate it would cause a drop in pressure ,--which is why i,m going for a "ring main "--for want of a better word in large piping +and a buffer volume hot system will be properly lagged

don,t get prettier than that I see you have prv,s --your lucky --I complained about pressure dropping from 5bar i used to have and was told by water board "we only have to supply it to you at 2bar --so no need for prv -he told me to remove it as it could reduce flow rate!!! so new house will be having no small dia piping ,large dia supply to upstairs onlythen manifolded down before going to outlets up there

If you check that website I linked it says price per sqm -- £196.61 ,18blocks in a pack

that stuff is serious price over £200 per sqm https://www.insulationshop.co/marmox_thermoblock_100mm.html fully insulated under slab system which comes up around it as well only runs at £85sq m think iwould go that way if spending that much on marmox something like this https://www.castleforms.com/products/raft-therm

whilst in the thinking room i had a thought how about using recycled plastic timber for the sole plate along with DPC? definately rot proof --but don,t know what its insulating characteristics would be --think it might be colder than real wood. or at least use it in thin format to lift the wodden sole plate and make air gap .but sealed at outside of DPC strips ,both sides 2 layers of dpc one on slab one above plastic next to wall 2 beads of foam seal it up to make little air pocket one for you boffins