scottishjohn

will be looking into this some more --but still not convinced for same old reason -- If cold store uses pir when they got to keep using fuel to keep to -40c -then it has to be best insulation EG stoppage of the passge of heat from one layer to next at all times

can you copy any info on the machines -please

If using steel frame total wrap with the insulation is only solution ,thats what modern portal frame buildings do with the composite cladding panels attached to outside of structure,unless you are going for the INDUSTRIAL look then you would need to strap out whole interior the same to start with for a house

sorry it still don,t, make sense passage of hot or cold is the same . think you are forgetting is the foam is never seeing the direct heat from sun as the roof slates , have a 4" gap with the cross battoning and a self perpetuating air flow between tiles and sips from the soffits to the ridge .unless what you are saying is you are quite happy for heat to leak out of the roof , as for kingspan not meeting building code --maybe not if all you used was the sips alone ,but you know as well as i that you would batton inside for services then foam plaster board which will make it comply. are basically saying you are making a cold roof structure and only the last layer of pur is doing the work and the blown fibres are just to make a slow moving air space . I fully understand that air is a very poor conductor of heat . are you also saying that doing it this way there is little need for mvhr looks a lot more expensive + time consuming to build . I will bring this up with the architect --but if it twice as costly --i,ll open the windows in summer

It will still be less intrusive than 300-400mm roof trusses.which you then have to fill with insulation . hire of a telehandler for a day is hardly a big deal when whole roof goes on in few hours along with waterproof membrane all in same day . I agree if you are having full flat ceilings upstairs with an attic /junk space .then go with trusses ,still doubt it will be cheaper or simpler ,but where planning says 1.5 stories only then space is important

just to be simple look at kingspan tek house -video and you will see hows its done, uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=u-tube+and+kingspan+tek#id=3&vid=533dcaebfbac7e80df66273d603efb87&action=click

you keep going on about this I assume the people who make super cold storage facilities know what they are doing as heat loss costs them money --not one of them use blown fibres all use pir insulation so it must be better --the bean counters would soon work out which way costs them less to keep temp at -40c when outside can be +30c. so you are perfectly entitled to your opinion ,but I will go with what the big money people use,where initial cost is secondary to running costs . If you gonna make your house super insulated and air tight the top rooms are always going to be hot in summer as heat rises.

why would you use timber splines? use proper insulated splines and if required have a gable to gable support at half distance from ridge to top of walls and yes you will need a services void so batton out inside and use foam backed plaster board if you need to I doubt you will if you go for a 175 or200mm sips panel --you can even get 225mm sips easily now

lucky you dumfries&galloway will definately want you to alter your build to suit any news regs if you go for an extension .

yes probably a few things --check with your architect or planners some insist on waterproofing both inside and out and a sump and bilge pump as well as a french drain around outside coupled to a drain , nad very picky on type of back fill to the membrane depending on how high local water table is and or type of ground . basements don,t come cheap

rooms in roof space then sips will give you more space than anything else if ridge height is a problem. but you could build with ICF and have a sips roof so many choices I know cos i,m going through same things myself

on further reflection i think i,ve been talking nonsense so I checked with my expert grp roofer friend its a balcony so it must be flat ? i guess you did not tape the osb joints ,so the water will have gone to underside as well ? the roofer always lay board and grp it the same day . so if you want perfect --its strip them off and start again , anything else will be open to possible problems later on . he won,t even put grp on old osb after stripping off a roof felt -always needs new t&g roofing boards + then the grp hes done hundreds and not one comeback he uses t&g so there is no area where there could be a joint problem + even adds a little pva glue to each joint as he puts them together. hope this helps

but if you look at cfs site it says apply to DRY clean substras --not to damp surface --.still say a wee test --if it drys clear and a bugger to pull of it should be fine --or just wait till its all dry thats 100% fix

yes its very hard cos his idea of just slightly damp might not be our idea of slightly damp-- yes most resins will blush if alot of moisture present --the wee test might show that and then he knows he gotta wait till its all dry .some of my gutter repairs did that ,but doing in mid winter its not suprising ,but i did use 2% hardener to make to go off quick due to temp--still there holding the rusty old gutters together and water tight --maybe the exothermic reaction dried it out a bit .LOL

so go to plan 3 try a small area today and try to peel it off tomorrow, he don,t want to spend money he already said that

PVA? that mixs with water then drys a;ways used to seal blockwork+ give a bond coat before hard plastering , wheres the grp going to go once its a complete sheet any way . you got some thin sheets of dry ply -nail that onto osb and bobs your uncle --osb will soon dry out under it you could always mix up a very small amount and try an area and see if you pull it off next day --if its stuck no problem

the way we built our big workshop 30x24m 30years ago was to make footings just for the pillars ,then drop in frame level it up and fill around rsj,s with concrete. the main workshop floor was then done seprate - 10" thick on 2ft of well packed hardcore.still here and no subsidance 30 years later . strip founds between posts for block work .but if hanging panels on frame to gorund level --you won,t need much as a strip between posts But modern monews i,ve seen are done as raft with bolts to fasten frame now -could be change in regs ? i remember the steel constructors trying change our minds about hot dip galv on frames --glad we did it -never had to paint it and still looks like new

Ihave built a copule of industrial workshops with steel --,but for normal house the only reason ican see for using portal frame is if going grand designs with all sorts of cantilevered flying lounges . sips have enough strength for a house ,so why the steel? a long way for a short cut yes value seems possible if sips totally envelope steel frame -- look at industrial portal buildings using composite panels if that the way you want go they get same sort of values but with finish as well..

Ohh isee --my mistake

you really want a sewer manhole in house ? what if sealing is not good? --and sealed ones will be expensive -surely better a bit more plumbing +bends if required and have it outside that would be my first choice?

now i don,t about english law ,but in scotland anything hanging over from nieghbour you can cut off . so maybe you cut off the roots on your side of boundary and build foundation at least at that point down to below where roots are ?. in scotland you cannot build within 1 m of boundary as well -- So i am suprised you can even build within 10" anyway

a slope --a ramp for your wheelchair later?

I agree with JS --having also been doing grp +epoxy for 40years ,and also built a europa which is full epoxy wings. there is a special resin which may help it is used for emergency gutter repairs and is set by unltraviolet light, preactivated --it is sold with a 28 days use by date on it and once you open it you need to use it sets in less than an hour It is not cheap ,but does adhere to damp surfaces,so maay be one coat of this then on with normal grp on top of it --20years later gutters are still water tight would copy you site --but changed ocmputer since then.. CFS will know all the different solutions for sure --i also use them

how much was the machine? about £10k?-then drums of stuff attach link please you will need nearly twice as much to get same U value for open cell as pur sheet with foil backing

my first guess would be it was filled because it leaked,so assuming it would be tanked is dangerous Me I would knock out the walls of it and hardcore it as any other foundation and carry on mybe you can get concrete crusher on site cheaper and you use it as hard core? or just disc cut the walls and use them as hard core in bit bits on the pool floor