scottishjohn

this is why isuggested if you really want to over engineer it to use plywood and glue a few layers together and jigsaw to exact shape ,then a bit of goorilla glue and predirlled holes +screws make it bullet proof. so many simple ways to sort this problem and by the time the floor is glued+screwed its going no where. If you get floor bounce ,then your engineer didn,t spec it right to start with

we seem to be getting a bit anal now--next your going to tell me you used a torque wrench on all the thunderbolts -- 16m thunderbolts should be 100nm before you ask not that i,m a fan of them --used too many bolting down ramps and things in a garage -very critical on pilot size and do not like being taken out and refitted--hole gets bigger--its a one fix bolt --good old expansion types are way stronger +can be removed =refitted its a building not space rocket not a vehicle that has all sorts of other dynamic loads -no earth quakes -so good straight forward engineering is all that needed--that why i said just double up the number of thunder bolts --I understand the idea that being further away from way it could try to twist beams from walls --simple solution--pack ends of joist out sideways so there is no space for the beams to move from twisting off wall motion -,

suggested that 4 pages ago ..double up the thunder bolts+ screw wall plates together --job done - he would be doing the flooring by now--maybe even the carpets.LOL

not happy on that half lap joint --the pillar is not under the left hand side of the half lap --so that beam is all hanging on half its depth make the support post wider to support left hand side and it would be fine. you paid this engineer for this solution?

you got your posts ? If so sounds like a job for local blacksmith or garage to make you up a suitable "shoe" and get it galvanized or painted 5mm plate should the trick with bolts etc did your designer not spec something for this ?

certainly poly types of ICF need it thicker than durisol or the hydraulic pressure is too great +that will cause lots of blow outs. even then different makers specify dif rates and types of mix --and very gentle pokering if any with poly types ,some say use self compacting concrete --but that will still have a slump rate. looking at the "velox " type which is basically durisol type stuff --but just flat boards and no webs,but lots of metal ties- and they pour as thick as poly types -just fully open void to fill ,no webs to go round and not a sign of bracing in any of the companies vids -but it is nailed together as well and looks like 3m pours after first 0.8m pour at slab certainly might consider that for basement /garage and a velox concrete roof to comply with fire regs for a garage below living space --just the stuff to make your bomb shelter out of . lol

good question. I have been looking at all types of ICF and the different makers seem to specify different slump rates I will certainly be getting a slump tester of my own to check what they supply me before i let them start pouring and use my ICF suppliers spec as my guide

https://www.septictank.co.uk/how-to-beat-the-2020-septic-tank-ban/ first thing is this true that 2020 could be a problem for those without a proper recorded of tank servicing. secondly ,if its red worms will they be the same as live in the bottom of my pond,which the fish dig for all the time? looks like a con --but maybe some mileage in dumping some from a pond in the septic tank

who needs a nail gun if you can work like him

I don,t like that the ends of the joist are short of going right to the back of the hangers ,must be liable, if over loaded floor to try to split hanger at outer edge cos the joist is only bearing on half of the hanger bottom plate,so that twice the loading if half the area

thats same as i described earlier in the day --but i suggested you make it up from plywood elemtns glued together making a gluelam tongue piece which will definatley be up to job --no need for engineering calcs

you want low techthat will work one piece of wood which is long enough to sit over 2 joist at 600 cntre -make another piece which you nail to first piece -the lengthof which is correct to make the next joist 600mm centre from first one . make 2 of these and use them as spacing guides--it just drops over top of the joists and spaces them for you start at one end and get first joist square to walls or what ever you want it squre too --then just keep moving along. has to be square and correct spacing= floor sheeting will match up the second piece will be 60m less the width of your top runner on the joist first piece make it 700mm long -nail second piece inmiddle of it

worked for the Egyptians + greeks you could go inside have a couple of weetabix then come out wind those bolts in flush -if bolts in concrete are good they will countersink themselves in modern soft wood . unless you some special lignum vita beams .LOL

chalk line and framing square?

thought should come before hand you remeber what your wood work teacher told you measure 3 times ,mark twice ,cut once

drill them AS A PAIR ON THE GROUND BEFORE FITTING

If you think you are going to have to pay for new ones you could make up end sections to extend them ,if you wish solid wood that , has same profile but also has a tongue that goes right into first vertical web for extra fixing glue and screw it all in -- If you really worried make them up using good plywood layers to make solid end as glue lam end extensions - if still worried add extra long outer plywood braces both sides spread load further down the joists - cannot be that much load when you look at thickness of joists hangers--make the glumlam plywood pieces so they can be top hung if you like --no need for joist hangers then --not the simple job you wanted --but dam sight cheaper than new beams and probably stronger if you do it right

that sounds like easiest way --you even got templates for drilling or double up + a few more concrete fixings to be sure - it would be my solution if i was paying

I now am working on my planning and one of things i noticed was the scottish water statement which says they only have to supply you water at 1bar - you could get more depending where you are --but 1 bar is minimum--so I am guessing I will need to fit pump etc as my plots are up a hill--time will tell something else to consider when buying a plot up a hill in countryside

or GRP--4times the price though used in radar bunkers etc -as steel would mess up the radar signal -if it worked at all

new house or renovation? you gotta dry it out before anything --check plaster with moisture meter dehumidifiers?--turn on the heating ?

only seen them advertised in US

thats handy to know --have durisol been made aware of that problem at 50% more expensive than integraspec i doubt i will be going that way ,but maybe brother will with zonts +zuccles being cheap it makes the advantage of no bracing that Durisol has --less important you can buy the zonts cheaper than you can hire bracing ,then sell on and use the 4x2 wood for interior stud walls etc current prices from ukagent Hi John, Many thanks for your enquiry. The Zonts are £12 each and come in boxes of 20 units, while the Zuckles are £18 each and come in boxes of 10 units. All prices plus VAT and delivery. Regards, Najem Al-Hasan

Ialso am looking into supply of bracing systems --simple cheap one zonts+zuckles https://fab-form.com/zontBracing/zontBracingProjectPacificIcf.php next year i will be building so any one interested in these message me and i will see what sort of bulk deal can be had closer to the time

HI, been doing some searching and contacting suppliers durisol £65 per sq m integraspec with extra insulation 45 euros Integraspec without extra insulation 42 euros integraspec insulated raft 300mm thick approx +edges up around the slab 35euros sqm any body got any other prices ?