scottishjohn

and when it freezes if laid on top of ground? turdciles!!!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClqplhfuIHgG1bcpkWcpRuQ lots of how to do it videos here

I think this is why lots of people especially in USA use glue fittings and not push on if going under ground --suspect they have to to comply with code watched a UK video and they said push them right home --then pull out appox 10mm to allow for expansion and contraction

a finer toothed saw as you would use for plastic roof sheeting is best solution https://www.cabp.co.uk/Accessories/Tools/Spear--Jackson-PVC-Predator-Saw-14-PPI_TPVPRE.htm to get a nice cut if no table saw available--table saw works cos of speed of blade std hard point wood saw is a bit coarse by choice ideally the way you decide on TPI of a saw is you want at lest 2 to 3 teeth in the thickness of the material you are cutting then it will cut smooth and not snag 16tpi will be even better for plumbing plastics

see gyproc "white book" for all the info you need on how to use them and all plaster products and fireproof times for different boards you can download it from gyproc site https://www.british-gypsum.com/literature/white-book/partitions

easy enough to fill with acoustic batons will give some insulation as well this is maybe why this type of studding is used in offices etc easy to do ,and good fire +soundproofing

joiners don,t like the thin webs for attaching too or thats what iwas told up here local builders merchant had never even heard of them I coud be using them in my own next house ,as the man says --they are straight and thats exactly how i split the workshop -- killer big solid blocks +butress up to 8ft then studding to roof couldn,t lift them any further .LOL and we don,t nice things like that platform to hire locally

thank you for pctures == good help in decision making process I would like your acrow props but think you might be a bit far away --maybe i do it like the russians --lots of small tree trunks --plenty of them in sotland LOL but still got planning to get sorted yet -- to convince then to allow more than a typical long 1 storey crofters cottage on the 1 acre site --they just crazy could be going down the VELOX way - and maybe a basement-plot has lots of slope on it

what make is it link please?

the gyproc jumbo 150 stud walling I had to use that to split a showroom up as i was making 3 units out of one big building for fire proofing as the units were different tennents the spec was one layer of 19mm plank dry wall followed by 2layer of fireline dry wall -- this was onboth sides of the stud frame work ,with a fire curtain hung in centre it is absolutly sound proof and the wall is 5m tall sloping down to 3.5 at other end . so yes if you want sound proof use jumbo studding and thick layers of plaster board . I was worried that it would not take the weight of all that plasterboard 19+30=49mm per side --thats alot of weight still there 10 years later and no cracks in skim coat

I just assumed thats what they would do --not asked for post code just an idea how how far way

there are screws +screws as in all things you need to get correct type and for the job, they would have a flat faced head ,not a countersunk head as in std wood screw + not from screw fix-or other cheap crap supplier with no wasting under head . I would just use the nails --but he wanted an option -there are options correct-- screws to correct torque --not a problem cos they have more surface area to grip than an nail of any type--as you found when using nails on your cladding as i remember screws don,t work them selves out as nails can in some applications I agree though I would use the twist nails --its the cheapest + simplest solution

common sense would say a screw of similar gauge will hold better than a nail any day --go up a size if you wish they spec nails cos they are cheaper+quicker with correct tool to put them in --saving costly labour --but you work for nothing!!

any nail gun use in a factory situation is always air powered -cheaper to buy and use -paslode is just convenient if you got no electric on hand for compressor and no air line following you around its not better or cheaper in the way it fixs nails

think 40mm would be better choice https://tradefixdirect.com/sheradised-nails/sheradised-square-twist-nails-40-x-375mm

maybe if they didn,t make the hangers out of old bean cans they wouldn,t need as many fixings

all the usual things . telehandler,dumper ,small digger/bob cat ,20ft container ,concrete mixer,mule -etc tell me what you got and where you are nail gun ,table saw --what ever you want rid of

yes i know about these things from car spraying etc--you can get away with a smaller compressor with a LARGE reciever every now and then you might need to give it a minute or 2 to catch up . basic rule of thumb 1hp =4cfm for continous use. If you want to rent a generator yo will find 3phase garage compressors very cheap s/h, even screw types now my guess older hydro vane or something like that 40cfm --£300

the answer I saw when searching this subject of hangers and twisty nails was a nail in EVERY hole

this reminds me of when i was a boy and my first car--changed exhaust ,brakes shock absorbers and fitted new tyres etc and when i went to buy another one from a dealer the offer he made me seemed bad after all the money i had spent " must have needed it son" --but it dont, alter the price i,m offering you he says with a smile . chances are who ever buys it will want to knock it about anyway . bottom line is you can always come down in price by the amount you would spend I have been told that any improvement you make to a house you will be lucky if you get 50% of its value back when you sell - so easier just to do the buyer a deal and move one

remove concrete he is unhappy with NOW- and perform a soil test ther and in another part of your plot and give him some info , you have to suck up to him a little add something to counteract the leaching if the test at the area is much different than the surrounding ground and tell him what you have done could be you just got to wait till next spring and see if trees are happy --then another visit from tree man to confirm they are ok. there is no way you can turn back time

you are correct ,but it must meet certain level to even qualify for RHI to start with same as fitted solar thermal --if you doing ASHP your rate will drop if you declare solar thermal . on a very good house its hardly worth going RHI ,if you fit yourself savings there will far out weigh RHI payment

in scotland they quite often put a tag on a tree that has aTPO on it if its in a build site so no excuses for builder to say he didn,t know

I just went to kensa site and filled in the rough quote guide with details 150sgm floor area and new build house--came out at £25.6k --i knew you were not even close to proper price for gshp

not a hope in hell to do a GSHP for 10k --borehole or holes will be more than that . and if you thinking slinkys you need a lot ground for that and trench type is right way not slinkys --if contractor quotes for slinkys --find one that knows what he is doing I could be wrong but i have not seen a GSHP pump unit for under 10K and if you get sizing wrong it will not work . same goes for bore hole --you try and get someone to guarantee what depth hole you need --they won,t do it --they will just say they can,t be sure how much heat till it dug + tested and you might need another one . I looked at that long time ago and discounted it due to possible variances in ground which affects how much heat you get and no warranty from contractor as to how much drilling would cost --and that was 3 different quotes i asked for --all said the same . now if you got a nice boggy field or a lake --that is perfect for trench type GSHP --- any way you go get your quotes and you will see the reason why the RHI is so big for GSHP is the price it costs to do it -- just no need for GSHP in uk with the winter temps we get .