scottishjohn

and the larger air gap is a larger insulation gap,as you rightly say air is a wonderful insulator, to keep heat off the part of the roof that matters

single or double batons will effect that as well i am guessing due to wider air gap under slates ,tiles, what ever, with double batons

heating not on yet --so cracks will come later i suspect --normal with TF from what i have read

a visit from building control after the program to tell you it don,t comply

Ok guys please give me reasons why you choose what you chose -all systems can give you what you want ,but in the end costs will always be important so this thread seems to be a TF one tell me why sips +ICF+ brick+block were discarded when you were considering the build I am looking for good unbiased info on why you made the choice you did . all reasons are valid blown cellulose insulation --how is ti stopped from gradually moving down the cavity and compacting?

I will have no choice as the wife will insist on full tiling or some sort of panel system along with toilet that is wall hung and no small corners where she cannot get to easily to clean . and i think she is right, plenty of space round things --why make it hard to clean when you starting from new

correct -and it does give the possibility for the future if fitting 3 phase supply cable my garage has 3 phase supply ,but when i split it into 3 units one of them just has a single phase meter as its only a showroom +offices

I think anyone considering major PV in the future sometime , should go 3phase if installing a new supply . one could see that all houses may start to be fitted with 3 phase if we really get serious about home generation

If it was only this country that believed the science --then i might agree --but as scientists world wide think the same --then is more probable they are correct as a planet we cannot take the chance ,of doing nothing IMHO

you cannot expect most people to up to fitting it them selves -not realistic- maybe it should be part of an electricans training now ,as it wll become more and more normal ,so no need for special MCS, all these thighs are doable with the right political will+common sense . we do need storage for wind as that is not going away and even more offshore wind farms are planned. i would put the money into hydro personally ,be it tidal or dams --dams can be used as pump storage as well in right place we have 4 hydro stations on river dee in about 20 miles --built in 1934 +still running ,and again proven technology and if you go with global warming then uK is going to get wetter as well as warmer

again the problem is time scale no small biz thinks about 20 years for planning - I looked ta covering my south facing roof of garage with solar ----but it was a 15 year payback --and inital cost was 160K and only low interest loans if i used at least 50% of it --so a non starter . the estimate is 25% of energy usage is domestic --so that would be a big start to make a hole in that one and as i am suggesting you raise cost of electric to pay for it --then its self funding maybe that would make major house builders fir it as std as well ? there are 2 pumped storage schemes in my area that have been on the books since 2015 --but no money to do them ,yet we are polluted with wind farms ,which have to be turned off when its a windy day all over scotland ,but worse than that we are still paying for the energy they would have made on these days if they were turned on !!

you miss the point as long as we accept that generating power form fossil fuels is ok ,then nothing is going to change the other option to stopping global warming is get rid of 2/3 of the worlds population # I know which is a better option

4 car makers started to produce lpg cars from factory --but then governement changed the tax on it -so it died and so few cars using it --no filling station is going to fit tanks --as they never got any grants for it got ot thailand --every truck has bottles of gas--as in lpg bottles --but think its CNC ,behind cab --why cos its cheaper than diesel so its not hard to do and give the incentive and people will do it

when government get serious about climate change first thing to do is bring back a decent FIT for PV and solar thermal and add it to electric prices getting the pay back period down to 5 years will make people think it worth doing --and then do same for battery storage so grid can use it for wind storage then get real about pollution in cities and give grants to turn all buses + taxis to CNC or LPG -they have loads of space for tanks and know how far they will go in a day you would get rid of most of the diesel particulates ,the really harmful things . hitting people in pocket is only way you will make them change It has to be "carrot+stick " all this tech is already here and easy to do .waiting for batteries to get better is the wrong way -- they been running cat d9 dozers in south african gold +diamond mines for close to 50 years on gas ,as it is only way they can run those underground we need to start now we used to fit lpg systems to volvos 25 years ago --much easier now with electronic engine management than it was then apart from very little emissions the other obvious thing was the engine oil never went black --which is carbon --so oil change periods could be doubled --at least now that may not be very techie view --but its what happened in the real world

you sure 10mm is big enough ? what amperage you allowing for with hot tub 32amp would make 16mm minimum size for voltage drop. according to my calcs,not oversize at all suggest you double check to be sure earth should not be a problem if you use correct gland packs as you can also connect the armouring to the earth circuit at each end

only problem might be it wants to fall out. make a ledge with tile baton on the floor beams for insulation to sit on ?

quick check and yes they do a unit that can take all TYPES OF HEAT INPUT INCLUDING PV https://www.google.com/search?q=solvismax+price&biw=1536&bih=754&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=DcN8vJE9Hn3_PM%3A%2CiB1MWAiX8QQ81M%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSEghvAnWVVKEJnQ7fbL0pDgLiYOw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjSsfDr3eXhAhVkURUIHb2ABQgQ9QEwBHoECAkQBA#imgrc=K8ckQKoj-eldTM:&vet=1

as far as i can see its very complicated for only half your water heating requirements you want it all in one place .the logic of this solvis system looks bettter,change top heat unit from gas or oil for electric and use solar thermal for all your free energy + change lower heat source for ashp ? they maybe even do an updated system as this has been on market for over 15years that i know of. the internal tubes will give far better heat stratification in my opinion

did you find that in the flat earth forum ?. lol

as far as the comment on the roof and water penetration of house wrap --.maybe not overlapped enough or sealed at over laps or damaged by traffic on the roof in building i feel the real key is to make sure you have a good air gap under roofing slates /tin etc so there will be a good draft to dry things out between slates and roof fabric I personally do not like single batons on roof as horizontal batons only could trap water and debris -I have seen this on my present house and over 20 years it caused rot of some of the batons and i was amazed how much dust and junk was gathered up on the top side of them , i would always go for cross batons so there is a path for water to run off and not have batons acting as a dam . the extra cost of the cross batons is very small on the whole job

I must be thick or more likley computer illiterate where are all the pictures please

a bit OTT a std wood saw or bushman will cut them down ,and if the are beech or willow or sycamore make sure you kill them or get roots up or all you will have done is copicced them

time to remove those trees growing around it as well ,before their roots give you more problems. they will be growing like hell with all that fertiliser and moisture and roots will be heading to the moisture -through the bricks no doubt

I have been looking at a similar built house --some what more delapidated though . the suggestion I have been given is to clean interior of granite outer wall and get contractor to sprayfoam with PUR closed cell type behind the studs covering all of the outer wall at a thickness of 30mm min this will totally water proof and separate outer wall from inside of building --then 100mm min of pir and vpl +plasterboard

size of plots +cost for 3rd bedroom and reduction in living space no one in their right mind would build 2 bed purely out of choice if money and space available ,if only on for resale value would be better to put 2 plots together and build a big pair of semis