Mr Punter

If you have curtains on inward tilt turn you need an extra long rail so the window can be opened. Also the open window takes up space in the room. Upside is you can have external blinds or shutters. For outward opening, the reversible types are good for cleaning

Love it! Should have been the thread title!

How did you get access? Looks tricky to get the top and skeiling in one. This sort of thing often ends up a bodge and a work from height risk. That has come out really well.

Bonding is nice and sticky too. I think the join is less likely to crack if you do bonding first. You can probably leave the plasterboards as they are, especially as they have a thousand screws per board.

You need to excavate the topsoil where the patio is going. You may need to break out a bit of the concrete around the fence posts. Up to you if you want a plant border. Plan it properly as you don't want to be re doing in a couple of years. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ is good site for this.

Whatever surface you go for you will need the same good stable sub base of type 1. By the time you have used bound surface for the bit near the road, you may as well have the same finish over all. Gravel is very wheelchair unfriendly and the smaller unbound stuff gets picked up on shoes. The tar and chippings can lead to you getting tar on footwear, tracked in the house or car. Block paving or tarmac for me. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ is an excellent site for these projects.

That is completely normal in fact yours looks cleaner than most. Could be a lot rustier without any issues. It would be a complete waste of time to clean in any way.

It looks like it would be OK under a concrete slab, protected by polythene. Left exposed it will get damaged v. quickly. I would not want them as cavity wall insulation. Nor would Building Control as the foil does a moisture // heat reflecting / fire resistance job.

Impressive. Was the staircase built on site? What skirtings are going in the big room?

The drying time depends on the screed type, temperature and ventilation, but best leave it a month. The supplier should advise. The silane adhesive for the flooring is about £5-7 per metre. No need / point in ply layer under.

A bit off topic but how are you organising the construction? That amount of concrete and steel you would normally have a specialist in to do it, or do you have a main contractor? Just wondered why you were shopping around for materials?

40-50mm will work fine. They will probably lay it unbonded - a layer of polythene over the CLT, then thin upstand of foam at the perimeter, clip the pipes down and pour the screed. Depending on the screed, you may need to treat the surface before you stick the floor down.

But not PD?

Is it not OK to clip the pipes to the slab, pour a liquid screed over and glue down the engineered floor later?

No issue. Depending on invert levels for the drains you can lay the water in the bottom and the drain over this if you want. What about BT, gas and electric? If you are doing all you need to plan quite carefully. The water company often need to inspect the trench to make sure it is at least correct depth - often 750mm. If there is a driveway above and you are having deliveries make sure all the services are well buried and the trenches are properly compacted with decent fill material, or they will get trashed.

No. The ex building will not affect your PD rights.

Nice and lightweight then at about 700 tonnes! Probably over 1000 when finished.

Get rid of the joists.

There is no point in having any void. It will just make the floor cold and it cannot be properly vented as you are mid terrace and the rear section is concrete. The floor make up depends on what finish you want and if you want underfloor heating, but it should always include min 100mm insulation.

The weight is the same for the Egger. I prefer the finish on the Egger as it is permanent instead of plastic covering.

I thought you had Egger Protect? Anyway, if you are bothered, apply some PVA to the edges.

50mm overall is just OK +-50mm (difference of 100mm) is not. I note that lots of subbies like to say +- whatever, as it sounds better.

The OSB will be enough to prevent racking. No sure of the nailing centres but 200mm centres and 50mm nails would probably do it. Maybe download a spec from a timber frame firm.

The regs got rid of those in 3 storey domestic years ago, as they were often the Perko slammers which were a H & S risk with small fingers and they were frequently removed or propped open, negating any fire resisting role.

I have used it for soffits on a timber frame. They have a test for a 90 minute ceiling with 2 layers. For external, 1 layer is probably enough as there will not be the same heat load. Ask them.