Mr Punter

I don't know. I saw it on Rightmove. At a guess the projecting part is 2.3m wide x 1.3m deep externally keeping it below the pd limit. I guess the inside bit could be 2.2m x 1.5m.

I am doing one of these at the moment. A fair amount of paperwork but just be methodical. Best to do in one lot if you can.

You are beginning to sound like @Pocster

They normally fill the holes as part of the install. They use mortar.

It looks like you have enough space under the first floor windows for a pitched hipped roof. The design you have is destined to fail.

Often planning conditions require agreement in writing from the planners, where this one only requires that you submit verification, which you have, via your invoice.

After the pipe crosses the foundation it can immediately drop down, so unless your external finish level is on the foundation you should be able to accommodate this. At this stage it is not too late to create a channel in the foundation and run the pipework a bit lower.

The long radius horizontal is a no-no. There are no inspection chambers. Why not take the pipework outside from the bathroom and run around the building? That way you can add proper access for inspection and rodding.

I think they meant MWh.

Not an answer but you could clad the dormer in lead which could be cheaper as more people can do it.

I have not seen the springs before. Mostly I see temporary packers that are removed once the floor is down. My preferred solution is to remove the skirtings, trim the bottom of door linings, fit floor, refit skirtings.

Did you use it in accordance with any of their published solutions? It looks like they want you to use at least 2 of their products. Mostly they show new construction with some of the product fitted from outside. The refurb solution PF276 is probably the nearest to what you have and I can't see how the extra inboard layer of product would keep the Hybris any cooler. Let them know that you are disappointed and see what they come up with.

Are they Redland 49? Take one off and along to a roofing supplier to match.

Can you speak to the plasterer and see what they like to use? I thought you would just have angle beads and maybe mastic where the render meets the ali frame.

Yes, closed v open cell seems to mean waterproof / not waterproof but there is no easy way of telling, unless they say so.

I once bought a tight plot with consent for a new house. The consented scheme just would not fit, no matter which way it was shifted. We went back to planning with a revised scheme.

Are you using closed cell foam? Some expanding foams seem to act like a sponge.

The drawing does not show the hedge. Can you overlay the topo you had done? It would be useful if it included the kerbs, telegraph poles, inspection chamber covers and any other fixed points, so there is something to reference. Measuring to the middle of a straggly hedge will probably not help much.

I have never seen one of these before, but an old school plumber probably has. If you can unbolt the plate / flange thing you may be able to modify it to connect to the WC. You may want to look at using 82mm pipe.

You can add batteries but I don't see the point for you. The pool can store a fair amount of energy.

There should be a switch somewhere nearby but you will need a sparky. Your wiring looks old and may not have the same level of protection as more up-to-date installs.

So the merchant sized sheets single layer? Epic!

Yes you could probably put 3 PV panels on that. There are DIY kits around.

There you go @flanagaj. @Selexus is in Wiltshire too. £10 a metre is a bargain. I am amazed they will do it for that price.

I hate these ridiculous cliff-edge type rules. They are unfair and unjust and the consequences are disproportionate to the error.