Mr Punter

Only if he gets caught naked.

Why do you think you need a demolition statement? Who is asking for it?

Well you will be by the time it is completed! Plan it carefully. Incorporate drainage along the back and through the wall. Design depends on height, what it is retaining and aesthetics.

Your builder and their contractors should provide you with RAMS (risk assessments and method statements) for all hazardous works (work at height, demolition, lifting operations, machinery operations, manual handling etc.)

If it is for asbestos, the builder can get this done. What did they quote for?

This all looks fine to me. What is your concern?

I agree. Do you think the guidance is aimed at timber and metal frame type walls?

Yes it will stop the floor dusting. One watered down coat will probably do it.

Have a read:

How very odd. This sounds like a fundamental design issue as the two flows should not meet. Get a refund and maybe try another brand, like Vent Axia.

This does not apply if the wall consists of two leaves of brick or concrete, each at least 75mm thick. See "Diagram 5.3 Cavity walls excluded from provisions for cavity barriers" ADB V1 2019.

@ETC and @ADLIan are both experienced professionals and do not see eye-to-eye on this, so what hope do the rest of us have? Cavity closer, fire stopping and cavity barrier seem to get used interchangeably. I like the idea of @ETC's calcium silicate board cavity closer but Google does not come up with any. Mostly they are plastic with polystyrene or FR ones that are plastic with mineral wool. I can't imagine many bricklayers cutting up calcium silicate board on site. The lack of easy practical and cost effective solutions often leads to shortcuts and poor implementation.

I think that the terms used can be confusing as the words internal, inlet, intake, supply, external, exhaust and extract are used, sometimes interchangeably, to label four pipes. It can be even more confusing if these are abbreviated to Ext, Int etc. Having four readings on a cool day like @Dreadnaught has posted makes it easy to see what is being measured. I doubt there is anything wrong with the MVHR unit of the OP.

If you will never need access, I don't see why it would matter. How does the cellulose stay put when it is installed?

Well I could not view the image or the vid, but you need to put patination oil on lead to prevent the oxidizing.

The corner beads look rusty. The top plasterboard has a sag on the left. Better strip it back, re-board, skim and paint. Quite a fiddle but not your problem.

You will want the screed to cure and probably bond to the concrete, so a dry slab may not help. The concrete may need some prep.

Yes, just stick it back on with adhesive from a mastic gun. I would not bother with dowels etc.

OK sign the form without amendments. What you have in there is broadly the same as was specified. Do you need to provide photos?

If you amend it the house will fail and you will need to spend ££££ on PV to get a pass. That said, solar PV is quite useful. It could still fail on fabric efficiency.

Rockwool is very good at sound attenuation, so no surprise there. You may well find that once the EWI and cladding are completed and everything is properly sealed, the issue will be resolved.

Can you post an update to let us know what Norrsken propose? They seem very well regarded here and elsewhere. Bear in mind the Marmox type board on the reveals won't help block out noise. I take it that traffic is the issue?

Is this a lamp or the whole fitting? Picture may help.

Yes I think OSB with a coat of solvent based varnish would work well. Apply to the edges as well.

I have found plywood to be a great home for mould, especially outside or in damp conditions.