Mr Punter

+1 a decent architect will add real value to the project.

The glue is quite expensive but too much can apparently be worse than too little.

EWI can work OK on buildings with nice large expanses of wall. With the curved bays, projecting window, porch and being semi detached, yours (at least from the front) does not look a good candidate.

Where did your topo survey show the hedge?

Go on... don't be a tease!

What floor is it, what thickness and how did you install?

Looks like they did, with Super Skunk.

The cement board cladding, like Hardie, Cembrit, Marley etc. is expensive. Probably over £50/m2 with battens, trims and fixings. Render on blockwork is much cheaper, even if it is posh stuff.

No. The building industry has been de-skilling for years. Most people on site are average at best.

If those handrail brackets stand off 100mm and their shadow is 2000mm, the shadow exaggerates the imperfections 20 times, so a 1mm deviation or lump shows as if it is 20mm. I don't think anyone could get this looking good with that light.

You have a space for a new MBC. My charger has a C80 but I imagine it depends on the charger spec.

If it is recessed lights the holes are best made after the ceiling is skimmed and painted. Obviously you need to know where the wires are and mark carefully and accurately on a plan.

I would have thought he would prefer to skim first and leave it to the sparky to make holes after, as long as the wires are not poking through.

Surely not! Grinder and SDS with chisel blade (or a wall chaser). What multi tool and blade works on 7N blockwork for a 2m chase?

Get the ceilings plastered, painted, second fixed and snagged first.

No. Use an angle grinder.

I think a big combi could work well. The modulation on the Navien seems good too. Would a cold water accumulator ease the pressure drop issues?

Raising your ffl above the flood level can be a requirement. I think @Russell griffiths did this.

Your architect can supply a full set of drawings and spec and submit to building control to comply with regs. This is a fair chunk of work and involves a lot of toing and froing. Once you have your full plans submission accepted it is normal that your builder deals with building control. Try not to change your mind later in the process as it may lead to extra cost. If you fall out with the architect you can appoint a replacement. They won't need to start from scratch but it may cost a bit more.

A load of nonsense that has been introduced. I had these done on some flats. It is mostly a paper exercise, but the firm were doing airtightness testing so this bumped up their money for the half day to £600 plus VAT. Your MVHR will need proper commissioning but you can DIY this with an anemometer.

I don't think it is a good alternative. Caulk is a cheap acrylic filler that is easy to apply and smooth before painting, especially when moistened. You can wipe it off with a damp cloth. It cannot be left exposed as it will look poor. It cannot be used in wet areas or outside. I hate caulk around electrical switches and sockets. Just awful. EBT+ is a polyurethane based adhesive / gap filler that can be used outside. It is more difficult to finish. It is very sticky and difficult to remove.

Should be fine with a string line especially as they know it is important to you.

The job looks very good. I can't imagine it being an issue when you sell. If you did apply for Building Regs you will need to pay a fee and may be obliged to upgrade the thermal insulation plus further fees for a structural engineer. The insurance indemnity is cheap and satisfies mortgage lenders (although there is probably 0 chance of successfully claiming).

Yes I think the chimney effect is much reduced if there are gaps between the boards.

He may be using a petrol disc cutter with a hose attached. Quick and no dust.