Mr Punter

Once opened, store it with water on top to keep it from setting.

That's good. What are the corrugated sheets at the back?

You could set up a ltd co and transfer part. You would need to be aware of stamp duty, cil, cgt and other tax implications and take proper (not Angela Rayner type) advice.

Split the supply should be the cheapest option. The DNO should do a free visit and let you know. You may only get 60A per phase. Bear in mind PV and EV future demands.

Have a good sort through to separate and dispose of the asbestos, timber and building waste. You may be able to burn the pallets on site. You don't want a digger tracking through that lot. There is a lot of prep needed.

+1 Because you have a series of small rooms, this job looks difficult. Get several quotes for someone skilled and experienced to do the job.

Is the wall plate strapped down? If so, you may only need a truss clip or structural screw to fix each rafter / truss to the wall plate.

There are many engineers who can design an insulated raft. They are not suitable for all buildings and ground types. Why do you want one? It may be better to decide what performance you are after (loadings, u values, thermal bridging, buildability) and get the most economical solution designed.

I went paragliding with Tim who did the first GD build. He didn't seem too traumatised by it.

You can get the rockwool in plastic type which can be stapled to the sheathing. What, if anything, has been specified?

What has been specified as cavity barriers and where are they to go? A while ago it was acceptable just to run some 2x2 around openings.

Is that a gap between the plasterboard and the trim? Maybe a zoomed out photo would help, but my feeling would be not to plaster over it or add a second board layer.

I don't think it is. Get a main contractor, demo and prelim costs, overheads and profit and it may be fairly close.

I doubt the people checking the cil liabilities look at the plans, just the answers you put on the form.

What's it to you?

Dust sheets and sheets of ply or protection boards. Wash off any cement splashes before they cure.

You often see brackets used to mount windows. The location in relation to the existing is part personal choice. They would probably be best as per original. If they are weighted box sash they need a bit of space at the sides. Use insulated plasterboard for the reveals and insulation under the cill.

You could just use 25mm Celotex type insulation over the studs before you fit the plasterboard with 50mm screws.

Sorry your post was missed. You will be fine fully filling with the Kingspan. No gap needed. If you have room you could also use insulated plasterboard internally and this will help lower the bridging through the studs.

It may look good with stone up to the top of the windows and painted rendered blockwork above. It will look less sheddy.

It is the fire service who will say what they require. They should be consulted by the planners but you can approach them directly for guidance.

They can be quite expensive. I have used Bison ones before, where they were also doing hollowcore plank first floors. It is nice to have stairs and first floor in early on for safety and access. You need to consider what the finishes and floor heights are going to be.

Another decent design by @ETC. There is still scope to make main living / kitchen / dining area more generous if you went with the larger ground floor and make any other tweaks, but I think it is looking good.

I have a the paslode 350 but have seen a fair few battery only framing guns being used on sites.

The piling firm we used a rubber duck excavator with an auger. No piling mat or crane. Someone welded bent rebar to the steels so they could be picked up and lowered by an excavator.