ryder72

Keep the joins away from the sink for both structural integrity and to eliminate the remote possibility of a leak at a join. Ideally position your joins on carcases and if this moves it closer to the sink thats fine. Do not at whatever cost put the join on the sink. you will regret it.

At the risk of attractive some flak, I would genuinely like to understand what makes people buy appliances that dont come from credible manufacturers with some service and support backup. Nothing is cheap without a reason. That reason may be lack of service. Lack of branding/marketing costs. Lack of quality or whatever it may be. Why would you in good conscience want to leave an electrical appliance running, unattended when you have no provenance to give you some piece of mind. Havent those terrible tumble dryer fires (and they all relate to a couple of budget brands) taught people nothing? Buy cheap buy twice. I am no advocate of any brand in particular but if it doesnt have a credible manufacturers badge on it, I am not touching it. My peace of mind and the value I attribute to my life is worth more than a couple of hundred quid saved.

Pure is the replacement. X-Pure is the next step up with a better interface and wider cooking zones

There is a solution available for this from most German suppliers. Its well thought through and takes into account the underswing of the dishwasher door.

A combi steam oven will give you everything a steam oven will and much much more. For the extra cost, its definitely worth it. A steam oven on its own is an expensive product. All of the brands you mentioned are good products. Miele doesnt give you anything thats particularly better on the cooking side to justify the price uplift so ask yourself if you want to buy into the prestige attached to the brand. You would normally but your ovens from the same brand so they look better.

I am not expert at this, but when you consider that most hobs will do extraction rates from 275m3/hr to 650m3/hr (4500-10000 l/min). Compare this to your MVHR vent which is doing a tiny fraction of this flow rate. If anything the extractor could affect the flow of the MVHR and definitely not the other way round. I have most certainly not seen anything obviously detrimental and most odours are completely cleared in 30 min in a very open plan kitchen.

I have a venting hob with an MVHR duct above it. It doesnt make a blind bit of difference to the performance of the hob. Your venting hob is going to work by accelerating air flow to a speed way higher than what the MVHR does. A recirculating hob will vent the extracted air back into the room and the impact of this air flow which you can feel on your feet has made no impact on the ability of the MVHR to ventilate the room effectively. If anything your hob will affect the MVHR and not the other way round.

I havent felt the need to have a duct extract above the sink. The hob one is essential though.

Yes it works. Stay clear of the BSH products. Stick with the specialist brands. And ensure you have an extract duct above the hob.

Is the additional scale control filter you refer to or the cold water filter? If its the former, you friendly kitchen retailer should tell you that the Quooker warranty is valid only if in scale filter is installed anywhere in the UK except Scotland and Devon/Cornwall due to how hard the water is. If its the latter, it may be a compatibility as the Fusion tap dispenses cold filtered water from the main tap itself .

Hi mate - No one I know of would do this for 1 main reason. What if the overflow or waste trap hasnt for some reason seated properly? Who is responsible for any water escape that may result? One could argue that the plumber should check this but more often than not they dont. What happens if a perfectly seated trap gets knocked by a plumber while second fixing resulting in water escape. Often waste traps could weep after a quantity of hot water has run thru it due to expansion and this is the best time to retighten all joints. All of the other scenarios are just a minefield. To avoid this cross over of responsibility, we specify dry fits where the first fix has been done by others. There is a clear line of responsibility and ownership of problem established.

Thats exactly what I was certain you were going to say. Its not really the kitchen suppliers fault that your contractor has behaved unprofessionally (and I assure you its not the first time this has happened). Its no excuse that your kitchen supplier hasnt cooperated, but having had the kitchen suppliers hat on, I can assure you that we come across this a lot. Builders have a habit of acting like children when things dont always go their way and can make it an art form of making a nuisance of themselves. We make it very clear to our clients that our contract is with them and not the contractor, so while we endeavour to work with their contactors, the client will always have to be the go between and remain in the loop in any communications and agreements. In this case, I think you should have a strong word with your contractor and tell them that they need to fall in line.

Why do you say the kitchen supplier and the main contractor 'obviously hate each other'? A dry fit would mean exactly that. The plumber would fit the tap, waste connectors and make water/waste connections. I think your builder is being difficult. It is more normal for a plumber to have tap spanners than a kitchen fitter.

All comes down to what you want to spend for the extractor but a good quality extractor wont be cheap. Most manufacturerers make one to suit a 90cm over hob integrated unit

You are fine to stand on a quartz worktop as long as you are standing on the carcase side so that your weight gets transferred down the carcase gables. Do not stand in the middle of a unit. You will almost certainly crack it. NEVER put any pressure on a hob or sink cutout front or for that matter within a 60cm zone even if its on a gable. This is where the worktop is stressed from the cutting and weakened. Standing on a join is not a problem. Worse ccase the joint gives but thats fixable.

Yes most manufacturers are showing shortages but Bosch/Neff/Siemens are the worst hit. All blaming covid but I suspect there is more to it than that. Appliance manufacturers whose products use fewer Asian products are far less affected than those source from Asia. Brexit will likely make it worse.

Maybe. But the tablet drops into the base which is flooded. Doesnt matter as I have found a cup of white vinegar does the job perfectly and costs pennies vs a fancy bottle of multicoloured liquid for £3.

If you use all in one tabs, strictly speaking there is no need to use salt. However, salt is no inexpensive that it does help neutralise the chalk we get FOC with our water in the southeast more effective so for the sake of a few quid a year there is no point in compromising. If you dont use all in one tabs, then salt is definitely needed to soften hard water. Vinegar goes into a cup on the top shelf at the front of the dishwasher. I am not sure why it should be at the front but it didnt seem worth my while experimenting. Its more important that cleaning the dishwasher with various cleaners to clean out the filters every couple of weeks if its used daily without rinsing plates before loading (we dont). The amount of gunk is eye opening.

Cup of white vinegar in the top tray and the hottest wash available always does it for dishwashers. All these fancy brands will have to believe that have magic potions. All in 1 dishwasher tablets from LIDL / ALDI are great too, but it does no harm to keep the salt container topped up if you are outside of scotland and the far south west.

Unfortunately no. Sapienstone is a porcelian top so it will have the same properties as the other brands.

Is this what you mean? https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kimptonflooring.co.uk%2Fadvice%2Fadvice.htm&psig=AOvVaw0eeVa1r7BMOCYzCGVMOi7p&ust=1597929845569000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwjWt-vXrqfrAhVQEGMBHbzBBX0Qr4kDegUIARC0Ag

Its a wet room. Not an option now.

The movement is very minor, but its there. there is definite deflection when stood in between two joists along the midway point in the room. The joists go from an external wall to a steel. I am surprised how much deflection there is on just a 2.4m section.

Replying to various messages - No matting used. I did a quick scan of the Ditra matting and I cant see how it would have helped in this particular situation. Marine ply was used to build up the floor and provide additional rigidity. It was screwed down to the joists through the chipboard using gold screws at 100mm intervals. I will check about the gluing of the ply. But screwing down - yes. Admittedly the ply may not be glued. Is that likely to make it less effective?

The shower tray is not the problem. its the tiling in the rest of the room