jack

We used tens of tubes of the stuff to stick brick slips to walls inside our house. Not a single one has budged in 10 years.

This thread hasn't been visited for a while and it's pretty unlikely the original poster is still monitoring it. You can tag people you want to know you've posted by typing the @ sign followed by their name: @k dawg Depending on their account settings, they might be notified by email that someone's tagged them. Beyond that there isn't much you can do but start your own thread and see whether anyone can give you advice on your situation. Good luck.

(Moved as requested by original poster.)

We have almost the identical situation on a large wall high up in a double-height section in our kitchen. My best guess (based on our experience) is that it will be exactly the same when you paint it. I doubt you'll be able to completely sort it, but you could try some judicious sanding with a long, flat sanding block to knock the high spots off, followed by careful application of scraped on filler with a wide trowel to fill any low bits. The affected wall in my house is almost east-west, with a large window to the east. In our case, there's only a short period - a few minutes, I guess - on sunny mornings in Autumn where this effect is visible. We decided it wasn't worth trying to do anything about.

@vishusingh, you've come to the right place. Must of us are amateurs who've found (sometimes had to find, like you) our way through difficult and complex situations. There are also some very experienced people who give their time freely to help. Post your questions in the relevant sub-forums, and no doubt someone will be along to help. Good luck.

Yes, power is the rate at which energy is delivered, so power = energy/time. My comment about time was in response to the poster asking "what duration" the 3 kW heat loss was over:

You can get induction pads/plates that sit on the induction hob, allowing you to heat non-ferric cookware. This sort of thing. I wouldn't use them as a permanent solution or where large power output is involved, but for a moka pot I reckon they'd be fine. Do your own research though!

That's a tidy-looking house. Great to see MBC in action. We used them over 10 years ago but still have great memories of their work ethic. They were one of the few trades we had onsite where there were minimal problems, and those that did arise were addressed immediately without argument.

Same. Our house temp changes about 1 °C per day with the heating off in the winter. Having no heating on for a couple of hours is imperceptible. Compare that to old Victorian houses we've lived in, where the temperature would change several degrees over only a few hours.

'kW' is power, so it's a continuous number. There is no time component. If you want to know how much energy the house uses, you multiply power by time. For example, 3 kW of power supplied for an hour is 3 kWh (the unit electricity is charged in).

Great thread @Nickfromwales I've pinned it for visibility.

It's not really an article, more a tool that shows the cost of wind generation curtailment and paying for gas to make up what was curtailed. The other info is just very brief (line or two each) commentary about what the page is showing and how we might improve the situation.

@Oceanjules, FYI I hid your duplicate post over in 'General Joinery'. It's generally better to keep discussions to one thread, and I think this is the better sub-forum for this topic.

Any or all of what I said might be wrong, but that's exactly the point I was discussing:

I remember reading about someone (maybe the guy who did the Denby Dale Passivhaus) putting the outlet of his MVHR right behind the ASHP, the thinking being that the ASHP would recover some of the additional heat from the outlet air being slightly warmer than the ambient air. Personally I'd be worried about differences in pressure (between the ASHP being on and off) unbalancing the MVHR. The moisture point is an interesting one. When it's very cold, at least some of the outlet air moisture condenses on the heat exchanger and goes down the condensate drain. I don't know what proportion of the moisture exits the MVHR outlet, but if it's [corrected typo:] not a lot, then the impact on icing might not be that significant. Also, when it isn't quite so cold as to cause increased icing (and hence more defrost cycles), moisture condensing on the ASHP fins will improve efficiency, because of the large amount of energy released due to the change of phase. I suspect the whole thing is too complex to easily model. The one thing I would try to do is to direct the MVHR outlet air towards the far side of the ASHP. With a bit of luck, the outward airflow from the ASHP might entrain some of the air from the MVHR outlet and push it away from the house. Some sort of baffling or screening could also help encourage the "right" sort of air movement overall.

200 mm seems small. Have you checked your ASHP installation manual? I have a very low capacity ASHP (5 kW) and I believe the minimum spacing from the wall for that was 300 or 400 mm.

Not 400 m2, but I have a four bedroom, 289 m2 house where I've been successfully operating my UFH as a single zone for nearly 10 years. It's a very well-insulated house so there's no heating in the bedrooms. We do have panel heaters in the bathrooms that get used in winter, but that's it for heating upstairs. I suppose if I had wet UFH in the bathrooms, I'd want to run those on a separate zone(s), but that's about it. As for different rooms requiring different heating outputs, that's just a set-once adjustment using the manual manifold flow controls. I haven't bothered - they're all just wide open. Also, if you know in advance that you want more or less heat in a particular room, you could adjust the pipe-spacing accordingly.

Welcome to BuildHub David. I've removed the company name from your posts. I'm definitely not saying you fall into this category, but new members sometimes express a positive opinion about some supplier or other in their first post, and with a bit of digging we find out they're an employee or director of the supplier. The link isn't always that obvious though. Since we're a strictly non-commerical forum, we don't allow people to post supplier opinions without some sort of posting history. Thanks for your understanding.

@Mubbashshir, I've merged the two threads you started on this topic.

FYI, this was a spammer (posted a spam link later in this thread), so his post has been hidden.

Awesome, you were playing the role of "Airtightness Champion": https://carbonlite.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Aldas-12-Steps-to-Airtightness-revised-June-2019.pdf

That could well be what happened. I know, I did my garage floor with it. That isn't what I meant by "expensive". My main point on epoxy is that I don't like how it looks. As such, all I would achieve by putting it down is covering some stains. Even the modest amount it would cost to lay epoxy just wouldn't be good value (to me) in the circumstances. The door opening height wouldn't be affected. The problem would be that the unit is in one piece (including threshold) and difficult to move.

The doors that would need raising include: a 5.5 m long, ~900kg (according to the installer), flush threshold, triple-glazed slider, which is built in behind a wooden facade. two large, flush threshold, triple-glazed window doors. a 2+ m high, one-piece front door assembly with door and side window. two large, triple glazed windows with lower frames flush with the floor. The screed is on a slip membrane, so easy enough to separate from the underlying slab. While cutting it out would be messy and unpleasant, it seems to me it would be a much more straightforward and lower risk job. Epoxy coating would be a lot of expense to avoid looking at a few stains. I also don't much like solid colours on floors, as I think they show every bit of dirt and wear. That's why we went for concrete in the first place! Personally, I doubt I'd ever be able to justify the cost of replacing or covering the entire downstairs floor. I might, however, get just the kitchen done at some stage, since that's where 95% of the problems are. Can't see it happening for at least 5 years based on current household finances!

100% should be done before walls if you want an even result. Also, my recollection is that (at least with actual concrete) the grinding needs to be done within a certain period of pouring - from memory it was within a few days of pouring. After that, it hardens so much that it takes a lot more work and diamond stones to grind and polish. One other thing I forgot to mention: we were advised to keep it covered for as long as possible. We bought a load of correx sheets, laid them down, and taped all seams. Weirdly, ten years later you can still see lines showing where the joins were. I have no idea whether the joins allowed the underlying concrete to cure and/or dry out faster, but it's something to think about. To be fair, I'm the only one who notices them.

It's all relevant to the topic, so no issues from my perspective. Partly aesthetics, partly function (easy to clean, good for UFH). It was not a particularly cheap option. I think it was comparable to getting decent wood flooring installed, but it's been over 10 years so I don't remember. No, it's ordinary poured concrete. It had a tint added, so it's slightly darker than regular concrete. No fibres (wouldn't they show on the surface?). It had the aggregate mixed in. I don't remember them doing a dry shake, but it was a long time ago. Certainly no stones were visible after power floating. It took quite a bit of coarse grinding to start exposing the aggregate, and even after that, there are areas with little to no visible aggregate. To be fair, that outcome was partly driven by my wife, who didn't want a lot of it visible. One of the things that might have contributed to the couple of cracks we have is that our nominally 65 mm thickness is 10 mm less than the recommended minimum. They did warn us in writing of an increased risk of cracking, so I can't really fault the supplier. No-one's suggested torching, but the big stain is almost certainly too deep to be torched or polished out. I've considered repeatedly applying and mopping up a solvent to see whether that would help, but it's so far down the (long!) list of life priorities that I'll probably never get to it. *Thumbs up*