Adam2

I'm intrigued by your ventilation losses, the only variables I think impacting this being (with my figures): Volume (780m3), air-changes/hr (0.8), mean min daily temp delta (21.5), MVHR efficiency (85%), Appreciate my Jan mean min temp delta may be lower as I'm in the south and of course you may have a larger volume but I end up with ventilation losses of 645W (min in Jan) vs your 1045. Would you mind sharing a bit more info, if only so that I can double check my workings/understanding? I found the PVGIS website really handy for modelling this

I figured this was about reusing onsite materials for backfill so didn't mention that. Me - BASF membrane, double drain, EPS sheet 25mm then backfill. Also under slab membrane and water bar at junctions of pours (ICF on concrete raft).

Slightly different to the above: 100mm perforated drain around perimeter of slab toe sitting in pea shingle about 100mm below and 100-200 above. Membrane placed around the shingle. The drain then flows off into our soakaway. Above this we have 2 types of back-fill - where the back-fill will be built on we can't use site material as the SE says is not granular enough (mostly sand/sandstone) so have to use 6F5 compacted in 150mm levels to a certain number of passes depending on type/size of compactor. Where we're not building but will landscape, we'll mix in some 6F5 with the sand so we buy less 6F5 and pay less to remove our lovely sand!

Thanks @Gow I like the look of the Phantom blinds and being very lightweight can have super wide sections if needed. I think we'd not use very often and mainly due to glare or to prevent over-heating. The over-heating I modelled and it doesn't seem to be a problem for much of the year and really only likely to be an actual problem in the peak temps of summer. Will look at other possible suppliers of these thinner products as well

Cheers @Russdl yes I'll need to think on how we could get something concealed with an exterior installation as we plan to push the sliding doors towards the outside of the wall. Glad you like them. They certainly look premium in the online images

Hi - resurrecting this old thread to see if you went ahead with phantom as I'm also looking at this as an option. Considering internal vs external - I appreciate external would generally be better as blocking unwanted solar gain BUT I wonder if in practice the relatively few days where this is a problem you'd want the doors/windows open anyway for increased ventilation so meaning you may as well have them on the inside. Inside fitting could have advantages - motors longevity and being easier to conceal in ceiling

I used a watered down bleach on our K Rend for cleaning. Sprayed on with a back pack sprayer left for a while and most washed off, used a stiff broom for some bits.

Don't know if this helps any but this is my detail coordinated between architect, engineer and glazing co. This is a ground floor where we wanted level threshold for a sliding door. Outside the slot channel drain goes into the Aco or similar with the ground sloping away from the doors. Under the doors is ICF/concrete and may put cement board beneath the door with a levelling compound below that to help ensure a flat and stable base.

Thanks- the Keracoll is less than half the cost hence my question if anyone has used this. Don't mind spending more if it is justified but would like to know as there is a lot of floor area involved ? so @nod apologies for asking again but I need to be 100% sure - if, as you suggested, I allow 6mm for the mat (assuming ditra which is 3.5mm I think) so the adhesive and Mat = total 6mm thick. On top of this another 8-10mm for the next layer of adhesive then 10mm for tiles so this looks to be 24-26mm - correct?

Thanks @nod - looks like lots of 10mm tiles so hopefully a wide choice but of course my wife will find a 15mm one that has to be used after we commit to that ? so 6mm adhesive + matting + 6mm of adhesive + tile or 6mm total adhesive (3mm either side of matting)? As a man that knows more than most about matting - is the much cheaper and thinner Keracoll product a sensible choice in this situation? cheers

This is a new build with reinforced concrete slab and hollowcore intermediate floors topped with insulation + liquid screed with UFH. Planning to tile, maybe something like a 10mm porcelain tile similar to this https://www.porcelainsuperstore.co.uk/portland-light-grey.html Trying to work out the detail on levels for the screed quotes. At the moment I have (fairly generic info from the architect): Floor finishes 25mm Screed 75mm Total 100mm This seems unnecessarily thick so am thinking: Tiles 10mm Adhesive 5mm Liquid screed 50mm Total 65mm If we also use an anti-crack mat there seems to be real variability in products from Ditra to this: https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/kerakoll-biotex-reinforced-anti-cracking-membrane--was-idrobuild--sold-per-1m--?gclid=CjwKCAjw0On8BRAgEiwAincsHIgPgYGomuCUL6scxgllFqXruvHdKtdoCbA1fxo0u2BZ1WRtkJcUEBoCVxEQAvD_BwE Which is much thinner and very cheap in comparison - any views on whether this cheaper option would be suitable - seems to say it does the same thing? Can't see install instructions but presumably you still have adhesive 3mm + matt 1mm + adhesive 5mm + tiles 10mm Key question - is this matt something to steer clear of = a false economy? Are these level calcs correct, am I missing anything?

OK sounds good if your builder is providing this, I think some industry waterproofing schemes are linked to insurance cos to back-up a builder's own insurance which is great. If doing this stuff yourself then you can get a bit stuck as I found warranty companies aren't that interested in below-ground aspects with ICF and product suppliers don't tend to offer a comprehensive warranty - Sika stopped this a while back unfortunately. Yes - think that's where I got mine double drain from. I figured I'd have belt , braces and anything else.

Would be interested to know who you found for the warranty - is it a full warranty meaning consequential damages or limited to the value of the waterproofing products? I found it v hard to get full warranty for an underground EPS build. Re the double drain - I managed to find a relatively good value supplier of this (the type without the membrane) so thought no harm and maybe some benefit

My intention is membrane, double drain then EPS sheets. Having the double drain I thought was pretty standard.

Thanks so much, incredibly helpful. Who knew there was so much going on with water ? If there is a way to post the visio - even renamed as a jpg maybe then that would be great as could adapt.

Just bought a Makita dual battery blower + 4 non-makita batteries to try out. Will give it a blast this W/E on pine needles etc and try and remember to come back here with info on both the blower and performance of batteries!

I had considered trench sheets and went with a king post wall instead. In sand/sandstone - 7m long steels with ~2.8 out the ground. an SE did the spec. These are super quick to install and only needed a small piling rig. May be worth considering that as well. For a reference point, SE cost was 800

A 4.5m wall I'd get an SE to advise due to consequences of failure. Personally I'd not put organic materials in a structurally important location under ground. How well does your backfill soil drain? Fill around a perforated drain I thought would be pea shingle 10/20mm yours sounds quite large at 40mm but maybe that is better?

I'm interested to look at large panels, maybe microcement with hidden fixings on ICF secured onto frame attached to plastic web. Feels like should be cost effective but will see what quotes I get

@joth so that was for an MCS install where you'll get RHI? If so, what is your prediction for RHI? Sounds great

@Red Kite did you see the price on my original post? If this is the same product then there's a big price difference

Where did you find a showroom to visit?

The wall section will join onto a 2m high rendered wall which is painted white so figured would try and make look similar to that, UPVC would stand out a bit even with the bushes and trees. Though I will have a look as that could be a nice cheap and quick to install option if I can find large sheets of matt look UPVC ?

In our build (ICF) we're thinking to cover a wall which will form a boundary to a neighbour's garden with cement board and paint that white. It'll be at the back of the neighbour's garden hidden behind bushes and trees so difficult to render. This should match well enough with the existing part of the boundary wall on their side. The wall is on our land. Wall size approx 4.8m wide and 4.8m high (3m being the single floor room and 1.8m being a wall which will form the side of a terrace. Using cement board like this seems OK but please let me know if this isn't a good idea! To minimise maintenance frequency I was looking at using a robust primer such as this https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-123-primer-sealer-1-litre-white-LDZIN030 which will also prime the stainless screws and help prevent marks from damp etc affecting the board/coming through a painted top-coat (for this an exterior acrylic paint). Where boards butt against each other - maybe a white silicone board, boards are square edge so this may bot be needed All sounds reasonable? cheers

Awesome good reasons to not commit to early decisions ?