Adam2

Am waiting on my BCO to advise - we'd like to have a back door from the garage and ideally this would have an immediate single step down from the garage to the level below with an outward opening door. Is this acceptable or is a level area required in this scenario. This would be a single step directly from inside to the exterior floor level which would then be flat for 900 before a further single step down. Reason for the above is that the garage is raised - front is levelish but the back is above ground level (on a steel platform). Can't find this scenario in the regs docs I've been looking at

Sorry to OP re off topic so last one - what did you buy?

Looks nice - Looks like you're using duct for the cables to avoid issues with ICF I guess - what did you use to cut out the ICF - hot knife type thingy? I have lots of this to do as well as MF ceilings to get sorted

Thanks Mike - is yours Nuaire also? Was thinking to have 1 boost in kitchen and ideally not have to do anything in the bathrooms if the unit works well enough without it

Managed to bag myself a bargain on an auction site for a Nuaire MVHR MRXBOXAB-ECO4 - never been wired up so all good - fingers crossed, am about to power it up. Only thing missing is the wall bracket - part is fixed onto the unit but there is another part that goes on the wall that I'll need to source or make something up which shouldn't be that hard. If anyone has one of these and has a pic of the wall bracket that would be great to see - the manual makes it look like just a piece of angled metal. Any tips/good or bad points please share. Especially interested in any feedback on how early the humidity detection kicks in vs installing separate boost switches/PIRs in bathrooms cheers

I've just been doing this and used 150 duct through ICF with the cut out EPS as support for the inside of duct during the pour. Will just use this as the final external duct. Check what external duct cowl your are using to be sure of one for 125 if that is your planned size. If you use 150 I just got about 100m of the duct from an auction do will be selling loads cheap ?

One area of my balustrade needs to cross an insulated concrete deck (200mm RC 45 deck). Above the deck is 160mm insulation (tapered). This balustrade is only to prevent over-looking of neighbouring gardens so stops access onto a flat roof area. Am looking at details for how to secure the U channel down into the concrete. I figured maybe a steel U channel with welded on side fixings as the base - could insulate under the channel. This could be to the max height of the insulation, have fixing holes for U channel at 400mm centres running along this. The waterproof membrane could then run across the steel with holes for blind bolt fixings and some form of pipe waterproof fixing fitted over a small circular upstand to bolt the U channel down onto. If anyone has a nice detail for this would be great to see before we finalise.

Not sure if they will work, maybe get some and test if you like on an offcut but why not buy from EWI?

Up to 5kg per fixing with these ewi store

Very nice - will check them out also

Sounds good - just making these decisions at the mo. Any concerns re grease build up in MVHR vents / ducts/ filters due to that ?

Thanks for that - have pinged them an email (stuck in mtgs!)

One is lower ground floor the other is 2 floors up on the top floor - the idea is to get some form of stack ventilation should the internal temp exceed a threshold

Am about to order a couple of these 1m x 1.5m and need electric opening. Was quite interested in Fakro but the opening area seems really small only 150mm Any others have found similar but with a better opening size?

Yes he agreed with flexing the landing do it will comply if 900 deep so all good

Very nice looking products - are you using the non-adhesive mat instead of adhesive? I do like the sales pitch but maybe I won't like the price ?

Also used clean 40mm recycled stone for a large back-fill - it's great as so quick to place. Though you do get the odd tap/other surprise items in the recycled but generally very good with no fines

Some interesting reading there and good to know there may be some benefits to roof coatings if needed.

Still building but looking into any useful extra options. Hadn't thought much about the roof before. I did model the glazing and have made changes there and will have a brisse soleil planned. In cooler months not sure will ever really benefit from more heat in the top floor bedrooms so no real loss I think.

We have a few excess solar gain mitigation measures planned and I was wondering about the potential benefits of painting the single ply flat(ish) roof membrane with a white reflective paint. Anyone else done this or looed into it and care to share thoughts on pros/cons. Plenty of products popup when you google this. I have pinged the question over to the membrane supplier to see if they have an opinion

@faby I have about 10 - 14 x 4m sheets that I'm finished with now. Msg me if interested, you could cut in half perhaps

We have some fairly hefty beams in our build and discovered that a 305 high I beam may in fact be much higher than 305 when delivered! As the weight per meter increases so can the height. I didn't believe this at first but the supplier sent me a copy of his steel tables. 305 beam at 240kg/meter came in at 350 height. Can work around it OK but could have been a drama if this happens in a bad place!

good article here which will enlighten

May be able to swing it if 900 deep first step as that would match the width of a "regular" staircase

Max going is too far to be a step but too short to be a landing - think that needs to be at least the width of the stair