nod

It is difficult and time consuming to insert a pvc damp course A better option would be to rake out the effected joints and use a cream dpc such as dryzone I been using this product for about ten years and found it to be very effective

Yeah the buff would have been fine To be honest I had a box full left over from another job

I used Rytons Rytweep You can get a verity of colours But I used Clear You can hardly notice them

We were in similar position to you We are just completing our first self build We have a warrantee (Protec) On our next SB we won’t bother with a building warrantee Waste of money unless you are going to sell in the next ten years You will need Site insurance Manly for liability and to insurer the building As it takes shape You will be offered tools and plant within the policy But that will bump the price up We just took out the buildings and liability

Hope this helps

Will do The pictures show a site we’ve been doing since 2013 It embarrassing leaving wraps stuck out of the render Some of the gables have them across the middle as well Although the houses are for sale A local housing association takes the surplus Belt and braces Overkill

Weep vents always look awful on render Mines B & B i set one at either side of the window and door heads and ever 600 above lead I carefully set ours at 18 mill proud to the block and rendered over them Leaving them flush with the render when finished Cleaning them out with a 2 mil drill bits One site that we are doing the render on gas them all over the render and they look awful

Be careful of non vat registered trades Unless they work for a company and are working on your job Nights and weekends It’s very easy to hit the vat threshold If they are working as a builder and not declaring most of there work You will have no guarantee

It preferable to have a nice level screed to put a couple of packers on But an practice in particularly on commercial work For what ever reason the finished floor isn’t in We normally just fire lengths of metal stud above the dpc to temporarily hold the boards or if it is wet plaster backing we snap a line and fit a 15 mil stop bead On a house a couple of bricks will do the job Or even a chalk line around the perimeter and tap a few nails in for the boards to sit on Either way your plasterers won’t bother

If you take the bedroom carpet up and find the floorboards run parallel to the wall It’s likely to be load baring If they are not it worth doing as stated above and cut the ceiling back to the nearest joist You should be able to get your hand over the wall and touch the hoist in the next room

Around the top of the roofline Pushed into the cavity There to stop fire entering the roof via the cavity Normally puncture each one as you put them in

I’m with Russel here To get the benefit from UFH in the living areas The heat in the bedrooms would be stifling in the ground floor beds You can put UFH on the first floor (timber )

Oops Should have bought 2.5 boards

You need to look at the site insurance There will be things in there that you don’t need Such as tools and plant insurance for contractors Which bumps the premium up

I bored two holes on Sunday Next to the foundations Each 600 deep Both immediately filled up with water As pointed out above It was on the engineers advice that I angled six cube of concrete and installed a drain with a flood valve I thought it was overkill at the time But in light of the recent weather Its looking like money well spent and Somthing you can’t do retrospectively

I have a Build warranty on ours They excluded our flat roof from it as it Came with 25 years guarantee and the same period for product They wanted a insurance backed warranty That an insurance company asking for another company to insurer the liability in my opinion it’s not important If you where to sell at some stage Yiy could buy an indemnity

Doesn’t make any difference But as below screed shouldn’t come in contact with plaster

I’m hoping so Thanks

We where drawn into purchasing a warrantee In my opinion a total waste of money if your not thinking of selling in the next ten years and then you can purchase retrospectively

What about deeds Do I need to get deeds drawn up ASAP

Just looked at the form I’m correct in that proof of vat claim OR build warranty is required It also asks for copy of deeds Is this back to the solicitor to get these drawn up Big thank you to Peter W for pointing this out

Thank you Peter Id no idea Of this I’m surprised this hasn’t come up previously Especially when we have been talking about build warrantees As one of the questions asks for your SB warrantee details Our Architect dealt with the cil as part of building material ap He never mentioned part two I wonder how many have fallen foul of this

I’m assuming your not in England When we applied for our Cil agreement We simply sent in our planning application number prior to starting It took about a week to come back to us We where told not to start till it had been agreed