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My wife s little project She has put twenty Gabion baskets together and taken delivery of some stone How the hell to you gauge how much stone you need

Ha ha Its coming out this aft

Finally got my Hetas Cert through today So BC can sign us off this afternoon Our infumous disabled ramp can now go No more jokes about skateboarding

Sorry Framer talk Gypliner tends to be BG 50 & 70 are the most common studs used on houses

It wasn’t convenient to site ours 7 mtrs from the house We are about 5 BC didn’t have a problem with that We are on clay so we simply tapped into an old surface water drain Perhaps worth getting him down for a chat Our origenal plan was for a soak away But heaven clay put pay to that Somtimes your options are limited But there is always a solution

All gypliner is interchangeable BG the best But there is a cheaper version Not as good to use but does the same job Most of mine comes from Sheffield insulation or Encon Quite a few merchants stock the basic 50 & 70 mil stud and some of the basic cieling stuff

Thanks This site has been stood foe 10 years All the pb and wiring has been rip out to reveal no fire protectection Poor airtightness So we are having to seal everything

These are what I’ve been doing this morning A real simple system when space is tight

Quite normal with no heating on Bit of bleach in warm water Wipe off and re paint

You can set your struts at 400 and the wall will be very rigid As John has pointed out if you choose to use a insulation board you will have a very solid wall Another option is a Sound moisture board Both options will be rock solid We normally site the brackets at 800 apart Closing this off to 600 again will make things more solid With this system you don’t have to use track On refurbs it’s not always possible to get a good fixing Quivk tip for fixing the brackets is to use point tip pan heads not self drillers as they work loose Most vids show the clips being bent back then fixed Ans easier way is set your laser and trim the brackets with your snid where the laser strikes That way when you are fixing you simply clamp to the edge of the strut

No Ive fixed thousands of them No problem at all Dab with standard drywall

You can dab a moister board on Or even a foam backed board No need to machanocal fix if it is bare brick or block

Hi There would be no problem with condensation using Gypliner Its worth worth sealing the holes drilled and fixing with gypsum knockins They come in a orange nylon sleeve and will stop any moisture tracking through Normally when covering tanking we would use a foam backed board 25 mil when space is tight

Quite a few on here have lived in static caravans Might be a bit more comfy than a shed

As above whatever you decide to put in You must allow for 50 mil airflow

Best using 50 I stud in front of a membrane It will stand independent and is more solid than timber that is twice as thick

You can make brackets out of track cut a piece of track 300 long measure the distance from the front of the vertical stud to The wall Then cut the track on either edge to the base of the track and bend the track in on itself Forming a righ angle You can either use a crimping tool or screw a couple of pan heads into the side to stop it opening out Make sure your stud is set at 400 or 600 Then shot fire or screw it to the wall fitting snug against the flat side of the stud Then fix it to the stud with two pan heads Alway two fixings Worth purchasing a couple of Irwin welding clams (Small) Clamp the bracket when fixing Doorway heads are made out of track also 900 opening cut a length of track at 1500 Cut through at either end at 300 and instead of folding it in on itself Fold them both up at right angles and press them in the 900 door opening and simply slide the head up and down to the correct door he’d height Then a couple of pan heads in either side Great system once you get going I studs will stand independent No bracing neede When you are boarding C studs Alway have the open edge facing away from the board your fixing Stop it twisting When you are boarding both sides of a wall start with a full board on one side The start with a 600 rip on the other side

One side is fine we only fasten the end struts and the opens Use a 14 mil pan head Of you are against a solid wall 50 mil studs You need to brace onto the solid every 600 horizontal 800 cortical

Thanks I’ve 20 ton booked

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I’ve 330 mtrs of block paving to lay I need to get everything around the back of the house so as not to be driving lorry’s over newly laid paving My problem is estimating the screedind sand for this area at 40 mil thick Has anyone a calculator

600 /2 I would take there hand off incredible price

Ours is two story BB 285 mtrs Slate roof Around £75000 Windows on top of that

Correct Dave It was one thing I had no exsperience of We followed the advice of a friend who does have it Like is he is near a busy main road and told us he’s does use his due traffic fumes He switched his on for our benefit when we visited While I didn’t have any issue with the trafick The farmer was burning in a nearby field and it was starting to get a bit funky indoors So he switched it off On the next one I will probably add MVHR Though when the weather is nice we have both lots of doors fully open to the garden So I’m not sure how that would work We have sash windows throughout so never giing to be competitive airtight Though the airtest guy did say that nothing is escaping anywhere else Our home never drops bellow 18 and the Up and down and as I’ve already stated We do have the bifolds open as soon as the weather allows

Ours are pretty airtight But is airtightness a bit of an obsession There I’ve said Thought it for a long time We where forced to have trickle vents on every window 22 downstairs alone and they are definitely not airtight The test guy taped them all up prior to testing We don’t like the look of them But we leave them open most of the time