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Most of the site work I do is 25 mil Which will stop the sound bouncing around Though we tend to use 65 mil for bathrooms In your case I would put 100 mil in all Like me you have very few studs As long as what you put in is acoustic

You should be able to lay your insulation directly onto the hollow core Then add the UFH and screed Your SE may require you to point the v shaped joints prior to insulating

Our architect cocked up ours also I rang him when I was fitting the floor joists He got back to me a said Yep itch it up 300 mil Oom What ever spec that you go for I would get the fabricator to do the measurements Any mistakes then become there problem

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In my experience when the salt want to come out it will find a way A better alternative might be to spray with a salt inhibitor

Nothing stopping you from washing the salt off but I wouldn’t seal them

So much for encouraging self builds We where paying 50% CT on our build Twelve months before we had power or water

You can hire a full Hilti kit for about 50 quid I have numerous hilti line lasers But they are no good for outside

You really need a rotary laser for setting out with a detector Preferably green beam

Mine are all hilti 100 mtr range While I wouldn’t buy one for a Occasional use Most of the hire shops will hire Hilton or Rugby The cheap ones are no good for setting out

Pretty normal for window walls You often find the reveals run out You have 40 max at one point but only have 20 at another In the unlikely event your block work is plumb you could reduce this to 30 mil

No no need

No need to pva use a bucket trowel to flick the dabs on Put your reveals on first with two continuous lines to stop them tipping out of square Allow 40 mil past the block to give you about 25 mil dab

I suspect most self builds will be TF More expensive But more convenient

Quick answers you will be governed by the dpc on your house for the FFL You could go lower but I’m not sure why you would make so much extra work BC Won’t care about window door sizes as long as they are supported correctly You may find an opening that shows a catnic May need a steel if it is increased significantly You can compensate with EWI We have just finished a conversion with the same issue A pic may help

You could use Gypliner System It won’t rust or rot Set out Vertically at 300 centres It would save a lot of time and effort packing timber batons out

Our permission stated timber painted sash windows As we are next to a former farmhouse that is listed The voyage that is joined to the farmhouse was extend 8 years ago and had hardwood sash throughout Most now leak or stick I spent six months arguing with planners While I accepted that I must have sash (There goes my air tightness ) I new That with more than thirty timber sash there would be some issues and annual maintenance We found a company that had won Heritage sash window award (UPVC wood grain ) and planners agreed to allow these Had we not been next to a listed building I don’t think there would have been any issue with planners

I think they are the biggest Free delivery and design Plus site visit for trusses No one local could get near them with a price

I found Pasquils hard to beat

Both fine for sealing Though I do think SBR is more versatile

Usually the roofer will supply a product warrantee But most lenders will want a insurance backed guarantee

It’s normally if the steel is exposed to the elements I had all ours hot dipped as 7 of the 11 where required Not that expensive and will never corrode It should say on Your engineers drawing

No most timber isn’t seasoned now certainly not softwood for window frames we have sash throughout My friend has a workshop and makes Harwood frames But advises against timber as he has similar problems to what you are having He simply tells customers It’s a natural product and will move

Unfortunately no one will guarantee timber against swinging or moving Especially softwood The timber simply isn’t seasoned anymore The frames on your old house that are decades old will have been made with seasoned timber Id see what your builder can do to rectify the problem

If any part of the steel is exposed to the outside The whole steel should be dipped galvanised A bit of rust on the internal steel won’t matter