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Cost per m2 will always be more for a single story compared to two story Apart from taking up more ground You are increasing the size of your foundations One of the more expensive parts of many builds We spent more than a quarter of our entire budget getting out of the ground on our previous build

We’ve just bought a Stihl Batterie hedge trimmer Both sides of a 40 meter hawthorn hedge off one charge Very powerful and sharp Would have to be very careful trimming a bush

Your absolutely fine tiling onto 600 centres You can either use a 6 mil cement board or a lightweight Bedded down then screwed down I usually stick Ditra matting directly to the caber deck

Sorry to contradict I wouldn’t Parge for airtightness I would seal the dot and dab correctly or wet plaster Parge coating the walls is like giving up on sealing the walls and celings I use hundred of bags of Parge each year Mainly for soundproofing It’s a waste of time and money for airtightness

It is good news I was talking to the MD of one of the largest insulation suppliers in my area He confirmed what you have been told and added that everything is readily available in stock or within days Just to add underground drainage has dropped dramatically All available Except the 6 inch Nice to have good news

Fermacell is a good product It will end up costing more than PB and skim Or tape which works out slightly more than skim

If it wears t Russia it would be something else Covid Brexit Im just hoping this doesn’t mean that loo rolls will be in short supply

We used Protec last time and will probably use them again public liability and the building against fire theft and vandalism A basic policy You don’t want to get involved uncovering subcontractors All subcontractors should have public liability cover

A continuous line of adhesive around the perimeter of each wall Also the same with switches and socket Acoustic sealant needs to be used around All edges of plasterboard walls an ceilings Where they meet external block

Plus 1 it's probably not as expensive as you think to start again with a new roof Altering trusses is expensive and will give you limited options

We are at about 80-20 with dot ab and sand and cement 20 years ago it was the other way round I dabbed ours in thermal boarded I was tempted to sand and cement the lot Cheaper option The problem I have with sound coat being used for airtightness is it’s like you have given up on trying to seal the plasterboard Which isn’t difficult with a bit of care We are plastering and tiling four houses at the moment Tgat start from 1.3 million pounds Three are dabbed and one is sand and cement All four will be air tested and have to achieve 2 or Less

As above You can achieve perfect airtightness with Dot and dab No need Parge It’s. not worth the money But you do need good attention to detail Junctions sockets etc

I’m just doing six bathrooms on a house They have gone for straight and floor joints to correspond with walls They look ok Personal choice Try not to make it look busy

We used Quickslide last time Excellent quality four years on we had a south facing glass door blow No argument Just take a photo

Thank you for that That was pretty much what I was getting at Insurer going bust It really does stick in the throat Very unlikely to pay out But lenders do seam to want them As a home buyer I would be happier with an Architects certificate Architects are a pain in the arse when overseeing jobs They pick at everything Unlike the warranty guys

Allow more for tiles 20 mil is to tight

Change of job Divorce One of you dies The list goes on As we started our first build My friend a Site manager built his forever home “I will only leave feet first “ It was up for sale before we had completed ours You never know what’s around the corner

There not But you need one if you sell in the first ten years No such thing as a forever home

We are still not sure weather to bother with a warranty on this one Our first was easy as we new we would sell within 10 years While we don’t intend selling this one We have a second plot and May move sideways once that is finished We’ve had the details back and they seem to be on most lenders lists One thing that puts me off is There underwriter is a LTD company Perhaps I’ve just not noticed this before The company is Markel international insurance LTD It’s not the £1500 Or the likelihood of them paying out on a self build 0 Is that bit of paper going to be valid for the next ten years Any thought May help us decide

Yes it’s normal to use a fire batt (FRboarsd) It has a stone wool core and a hard outer shell About 20 quid for a 600x1200 sheet simply cut to size with a hand saw Then seal around with an acoustic sealant

My understanding would be that a smoke and heat alarm serve two different purposes Smoke alarm will warn you of smoke If your heat alarm goes off U you our kitchen is almost certainly on fire

He’s correct in stating 50 in Timber Timber and soundproofing don’t go hand in hand What you to realize is that there isn’t a comparison with timber and MF Even without the difference in density of the two When you insulate an mf stud There is 2 mil every 400 mil of surface area without insulation Hardly anything where as with timber you have no insulation on 50 mil of every 400 You just relying on 89 mil of timber Which allows sounds to travel through like butter

Engineered is designed to be more durable In my experience less prone to problems and easier to lay

Correct Most of our jobs only spec 25 mil acoustic Even party walls It simply stops the sound bouncing around

Ideally a gypliner wall and ceiling But a cheaper way is a coat of gypsum sound coat (Parge) will help