Mike

A lifetime of '20,000 hours' is most likely referring to the 'catastrophic failure rate', often 10%, under which no more than 10% of the bulbs should fail within that time. But someone has to buy the ones that make up that 10% - looks like it could have been you For a step-up from GU 10s, without going to sealed units, take a look at @Carrerahill's tip of using Tridonic LED modules. I'll be installing a batch over the next few weeks. The only sealed lights that I'm installing are are in-floor uplighters by Collingwood Lighting - expensive but they've a good reputation.

Not sure what was on that thread, but there's the independently assessed Passivhaus list here: https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/ventilation_small. But you won't find Nuaire among them.

Then the tiles and adhesive. adds up to a bloody lot. Still depends what the structure can support. My 1840s structural timber floor is overlaid with 50-100mm lightweight concrete + 180mm insulation + 75mm screed + floor tiles...

I used the Postsaver wrap on my last fence, but only 5 years back so much too soon to know how well it performs.

I'd follow the manufactures recommendations in full. Well actually, I'd use mortar...

Zehnder mention in their literature that 'Return diffusers or grilles in a bathroom should not be located directly in a shower. However, locating them near the shower is ideal' ...exactly as you are planning :)

Also worth knowing that there is an official rating for how well hoods filter the grease, from A (>95%) to G (> or = to 45%). You may have to dig to find it - some manufacturers don't seem keen to make it easy to find in their literature.

This is true, if you use twin & earth cable. However if you duct it all the way then you can wire it in singles (separate individual conductors for live + neutral + earth), which are much easier to pull.

I'd take the fixed price. I'd only choose Cost + if there was a great deal of uncertainty about the nature or extent of the works, or the technical solutions that may be required. You're very unlikely to be in that territory.

You can get 16mm, however there are rules that dictate the minimum permissible size depending on the cable size used. I suspect that 20mm would be the minimum for a ring main, but I'm now more familiar with the rules in France. Good idea.

Correct, at least in England. There was once a minimum room height, but it was removed from the regulations many years ago.

I remember watching that. Not sure about the cost, but it was an interesting project.

Mine just fits in 900mm, excluding the filling loop (though that could be repositioned), but doesn't have a plate heat exchanger like @TerryE

Probably something to do with economics and available space too...

Sounds like you're good to go :)

If it's a wet-room - with tiles instead of a monolithic shower tray - then tank it. If you have movement joints between the floor and wall, then tank it with properly detailed joints. Otherwise no need.

There are a number in Switzerland, including some small apartments blocks -

It's a solid slab, the heat will diffuse? through it, that's the whole point. To my mind your just making it work harder. This.

I would, and under the kitchen units too.

On a roof like that, I'd allow a day for 2. I'd have installed a lead flashing & soakers. An eaves tray is properly used in addition to felt, not instead.

It's possible in the UK too, but you need to locate the machine outside the electrical safety zones, which often isn't easy in a small UK bathroom. Europe now follow a similar system too though. Though, at least in the case of France, it's mandatory to put electrical sockets in a bathroom >3m²; in the UK it isn't.

The photos aren't very hi-res, but it looks like this was necessary; water reaching the timber is never good and could have lead to more serious and costly repairs later. On the other hand it's not good stripping so many tiles without asking first, if that's what happened. For an old roof like that, you'd ideally want to use old salvaged clay tiles, and maybe mix in the old with the new, though that would mean taking more off and cost more. As @saveasteading says, they'll tone down with age. Looks odd, but the photos are too small to be clear what's going on there. It wasn't. Yes, would have been useful. Decide how badly you want it to match the rest, and if you have the budget to pay for someone else to redo it. Or do like many of the rest of us do, and (re)do it yourself.

Thanks for the recommendation, does it take paint ok? Orcon F would be good as a bead on the floor to bed new skirtings into, but as it stays sticky I'd not want to paint it. Personally I'd just use a flexible caulk from a reputable brand.

It's good to 600pa, if correctly installed, which is roughly equivalent to a steady wind speed of 70mph. Consequently you may want some kind tray behind it if any water leakage could reach any moisture-sensitive materials, plus a secondary air seal (e.g. FM330 foam / tape).

Here's a start: