Super_Paulie

isnt the spigot upstream of the trap? if so then you'll have the water in the trap to keep the odors out. I dont think water will travel uphill to the spigot but i guess it depends on its position in relation to the water seal. You can get a blanking cap, like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blanking-Appliance-Waste-Inlet-Traps/dp/B0FW7R71FG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1Y1LKMP81BDBI

just swivel it so it points upwards?

going to be personal preference on this one i think. Might be time for ChatGPT to mock that up if you have a photo.

😍

I find it strangely satisfying cutting copper pipe with the slice. Also polishing it up with wire wool, brings a smile to my face.

probably ok to just remove it depending on the condition of the joists and their length, being so close to the joist pocket i doubt it would make any difference. If you are worried you could just remove a course of bricks and whack in a concrete lintel from one of the sheds, they are only about £15 for a 900mm one, then pull out all the bricks below. PS, im not a structural engineer.

probably like the polyplumb stuff with a toothed metal retaining ring. Can only really remove them by sliding back over down the pipe or cutting them off.

I rubbed in clear Sika EBT into my raw edges, seems to have worked.

chasing in a stud wall?

Thanks everyone. Probably overkill but it's done, onto the next thing. Happy Sunday to you all.

It does back onto the new bedroom (eventually). I've got plenty of acoustic wool left, so?

Thanks guys, doing the job now. Should I fill up behind it with rockwool while I'm here? There is nothing behind this stud bay, the pipes are further along the wall. Brick wall is internal.

That's the thing, we don't have the vanity yet and I really want to crack on. Wouldn't be a real problem to infill between the studs with ply before I board over, giving me the security that I can drill/attach anywhere along that wall?

Just making work for myself ain't I. Seen online that people double up the board but I guess that's more for sound reduction from the flush and waste. Deffo need plywood in some capacity to hold the wall hung unit, which I currently don't have so can't position it up.

Basin will be on top of the wall hung vanity, sat on top of a worktop though.

Any thoughts on this. I was going to just plywood over this before tiling so I've got strength for fixing wall mounted units. But I could also recess the plywood between each stud and then MR board over the top of that. Any benefits or just making work for myself?

Like Nick says, is what I did. Those bolt from each side things that came with DIY kitchens I simply didn't use, just screws behind the hinges or if I couldn't do that I just counter sunk and used the colour coded stickers.

I've got the thumb turner on my porch inside composite door. No letterbox so it was a no-brainer. Never lock the "front door" to the porch as we get deliveries to it all the time, but that's a normal key lock each side.

Best tool in the box when you're in a scrape. I've got a corded one but also a battery one at work which is significantly easier to use without the daft cable. For reference I've used it loads this week to cut waste pipes, plasterboard cut outs, small adjustments to timber, floorboard removal and sanding. Really is a "multi" device.

PVA eh? Any problems with it being above the shower though and reactivating? I guess not once it's been plastered and painted but thought I'd ask.

Probably the same as all the others I'd imagine.

Like the cyanide based stuff? Might get a tube of Gorilla Glue, seems well thought of.

Bit of a kick in the balls, when I was screwing up my plaster in grill it cracked a bit of. Not a chance I'm buying another for £70 a go, so what adhesive is best for this to stick the bit back in before I scrim tape and multi over the ceiling? CT1? plasterboard adhesive? 1 step forward, 2 back as per.

Looking at the recent reviews of that knauff adhesive, it's all 1 star, they may have changed the formula. That combined with the non primed boards I think I was on a hiding to nothing. It's like an immovable object now with the tile adhesive and I've foamed the gaps between. Even so, I'm going to mechanically fix with screws. Makes me wonder why they recommend stainless screws though when they will be getting coated with tanking anyways, surely they'll spend the rest of their lives dry as a bone.

Much better this time. Used some rapid set and did 2 boards at a time, seems solid now fingers crossed.