Super_Paulie

i used it to finish an internal brick wall i was leaving exposed as well. Ground off the majority, fill in the blanks and then a diluted brick acid over the lot. Came up like new. I did it on brick slips and that pulled a load of colour out of them though, you live and learn.

ive used this to clean my mixer and it works just fine. Link

whack a bit of 9mm plasterboard up with foam and then just paint it?

Draw your line then go at it with the SDS chisel each side. Easy really and it's neat enough, done it plenty of times in block.

my go-to, plus it smells sensational.

FM330 is my go to. Used it all around the entire perimeter and everywhere there is a gap in anything basically. Good stuff.

I drilled my own drain hole and tested the theory, sure enough any water getting between the cill and door then drained from this hole into the main cill that has drainage on the lip. I can only assume these holes were meant to be drilled by the installer, who for some reason didn't. I then siliconed all along the front edge. Filled the ends and put the caps back on. Fingers crossed this time.

It's an end cap but with sealant, I'll replace. But the fact remains that water getting under the cill is entering somewhere where I can't see a drain and it's sitting there for god knows how long with no where to go. Interestingly there are drains in the door track that lead to it, again with no where to go. When you look into them you can see standing water. Difficult to see, but the angled section of the internal cill can be seen here and it doesn't have any drains along it from that inside section. I'll clean it off and seal all along the front I guess?

It looks to me like water is getting in between the cill and the door. When I spray water there you can see it via the drain hole from inside the track. However, there is no where for it go once it's in there, there is seemingly no way for it to exit the internal structure unless anyone can shed some light on it? Looking down the length on it I can't see any way for it to enter the cill lip and thus drain away. Should I silicone all along the front edge to stop this penetrating rain?

This has been ok for 8 years but since it was moved to the new outer wall of the extension I'm getting this situation. Really there shouldn't be any water getting into it, the seals are sound.

Hello everyone. One set of my bi-folds leak in the corner(s). The obvious suspect is behind the end cap not sealed correctly, to get to it I had to remove a brick from my (almost) new wall. I poured a pan of water in the drain, barely anything came out of the drain so I stabbed at the silicone and it all came pi££ing out. Sure enough the silicone was a bit flakey, it took no persuasion to breach. Now, when you open the door the track is basically bone dry, so the seals are all ok. Where is the water coming from...? It is open to the elements so I suspect the driving rain is going in-between the cill and the door, into the lower drainage and that's either blocked or the end cap silicone is happy to let it out right above my damp course instead. The drain and thus water is above the thermal break in the below image. Would I be on the right lines to fill that miniscule gap between the door and the cill? I tested the drainage and must of the water came out at that point rather than through the "official" concealed drain. If so, what sealant is recommended, OB1, CT1, bog standard silicone?

nah. Worse in my own house by a mile.

I've got Integras and going to add blinds sooner rather than later. I was under the impression they just plug into the frame and get their power from the already wired up window?

Thanks guys, mind put at ease.

Happy Sunday. I've just got round to installing cabinets on the far side of my ground floor, however the builder didn't leave me enough of a return to just slot them in so I've had to remove the service void to leave enough of a gap between the doors and the units. However it's just dawned on me that as this is an external wall and the units rear board is bang up against the wall (no gap), I may have made a mistake in that condensation will collect at this point. The wall is block with cavity batts and the plasterboard is attached with foam. Any thoughts on this? I could potentially bring them off the wall but not by a lot. Cheers guys.

some gaff that Badger.

this is why i have trust issues with trades and do the majority of stuff myself if i can. And the associated 3 years build time... I just wasnt going to trust a company to make my place tight enough for the underfloor to work to any degree.

i used a GoPro 7 in a custom made "birdhouse" with a solar panel, but i was only recording a still every half hour. Lasted my entire build, apart from one week at Christmas were i think it got too cold.

stainless downpipe would like quite fitting in that space i reckon.

Yep, confirmed with the man himself. I need a vent or extraction to a certain level, either on the wall venting out or within the hob, which is what I've gone for rather than a dMev. Just because they looked fancy and I wanted to try it.

My previous timber deck was looking tatty after 10 years on the coast and that's with oiling every year. It was made with new scaffold planks. Anyways that's not my concern at the moment. I've ordered a back draft flap and I'll put it in, can't see it doing any harm.

No MVHR. Need extraction for BC signoff and I've already got the venting hob. I'll extend the duct to the end of the deck when I've built it, but I'll only get 10 years from the deck at best anyways.

Just looking to order the bits I need tonight. Should I be looking to put a shutter or back draft flap on this? The vent will exist low down at the same height as the existing air bricks which will in turn be under a suspended wooden decking eventually.

i'll see if i can capture it in a recording. Doesnt bother me to be honest, its just a sound that id never heard before with an open-ended standpipe.

be money well spent.