Super_Paulie

Count yourself lucky. I found this beauty on the entrance to my new upstairs bedroom.

the most bizarre request ive ever heard i think. Not like you're showing them off to visitors.

my trusty, flimsy titan has got me through my build. He's had a rough life so will be out to pasture cleaning the car when he retires. Cost me more for the bags and the filter than the actual vac if i recall.

i just connected up my velux blackout blinds (internal) at the weekend. They connect to a pre-installed power plug on the side of the integras and its marked as 24v. The window themselves are 240v but that obviously goes to a transformer in the head of the window which you cant see. I didnt see any options to have these controlled "hard-wired" so to speak, and i did look into it at the time as it made more sense from a reliability standpoint. However the remote button has worked fine but i usually just ask google to open them for me.

actually, ive told you a load of boll0cks there. I used full "normal blocks" in the main wall and then used therms* above "flat" as they bridge the cavity and into the old roof space. I wanted that additional thermal protection at the top, plus they support no weight. *it was the skanky Wickes alternative as i coudlnt get therms the same day. Edges like razor blades.

I use air blocks or thermalites when I build most internal walls. Easier to manage, weigh next to nothing, can be cut with a saw. Added bonus of increased insulation values, what's not to like.

id just cut and splice with Wago if they are hard to get at. I have mine connected with Wagos in an easy to get at box, but thats just me. Could just whack a plug on the end of the it and test with the mains if you think they are totally dead?

the pins are on the manifold, the Salus' just wind down against it. Id just remove one and then see what the state of play is with the pin with some pliers first. Then call for heat and see if the salus responds while its in your hand?

I use a little PIR sensor connected to an led driver and then an led for at the top of my stairs. Only activates in darkness so comes on if I need to go to the loo at night, otherwise it just stays off. Pretty sure that would work for you.

My velux came with joints that you can rotate against themselves so you could just take the angle of the roof and then immediately bend it downwards. I guess you'd get a glimmer of sky, probably not very good to look at though with all the mounting hardware. I can see a slither of sky though mine but then the frosted cover hides that, and all the bird sh1t on the window itself.

Is OB1 just CT1 then, it's cheaper but I've never heard of anyone using it.

i used it to finish an internal brick wall i was leaving exposed as well. Ground off the majority, fill in the blanks and then a diluted brick acid over the lot. Came up like new. I did it on brick slips and that pulled a load of colour out of them though, you live and learn.

ive used this to clean my mixer and it works just fine. Link

whack a bit of 9mm plasterboard up with foam and then just paint it?

Draw your line then go at it with the SDS chisel each side. Easy really and it's neat enough, done it plenty of times in block.

my go-to, plus it smells sensational.

FM330 is my go to. Used it all around the entire perimeter and everywhere there is a gap in anything basically. Good stuff.

I drilled my own drain hole and tested the theory, sure enough any water getting between the cill and door then drained from this hole into the main cill that has drainage on the lip. I can only assume these holes were meant to be drilled by the installer, who for some reason didn't. I then siliconed all along the front edge. Filled the ends and put the caps back on. Fingers crossed this time.

It's an end cap but with sealant, I'll replace. But the fact remains that water getting under the cill is entering somewhere where I can't see a drain and it's sitting there for god knows how long with no where to go. Interestingly there are drains in the door track that lead to it, again with no where to go. When you look into them you can see standing water. Difficult to see, but the angled section of the internal cill can be seen here and it doesn't have any drains along it from that inside section. I'll clean it off and seal all along the front I guess?

It looks to me like water is getting in between the cill and the door. When I spray water there you can see it via the drain hole from inside the track. However, there is no where for it go once it's in there, there is seemingly no way for it to exit the internal structure unless anyone can shed some light on it? Looking down the length on it I can't see any way for it to enter the cill lip and thus drain away. Should I silicone all along the front edge to stop this penetrating rain?

This has been ok for 8 years but since it was moved to the new outer wall of the extension I'm getting this situation. Really there shouldn't be any water getting into it, the seals are sound.

Hello everyone. One set of my bi-folds leak in the corner(s). The obvious suspect is behind the end cap not sealed correctly, to get to it I had to remove a brick from my (almost) new wall. I poured a pan of water in the drain, barely anything came out of the drain so I stabbed at the silicone and it all came pi££ing out. Sure enough the silicone was a bit flakey, it took no persuasion to breach. Now, when you open the door the track is basically bone dry, so the seals are all ok. Where is the water coming from...? It is open to the elements so I suspect the driving rain is going in-between the cill and the door, into the lower drainage and that's either blocked or the end cap silicone is happy to let it out right above my damp course instead. The drain and thus water is above the thermal break in the below image. Would I be on the right lines to fill that miniscule gap between the door and the cill? I tested the drainage and must of the water came out at that point rather than through the "official" concealed drain. If so, what sealant is recommended, OB1, CT1, bog standard silicone?

nah. Worse in my own house by a mile.

I've got Integras and going to add blinds sooner rather than later. I was under the impression they just plug into the frame and get their power from the already wired up window?

Thanks guys, mind put at ease.