Super_Paulie

i used the clear matt and its nice stuff. Flood it on with a roller, leave it 24hrs. Rub down with an orbital on 240. Then flood it again, leave another 24hrs. Sand back again with 240. One final coat but wipe it down until its "dry". Left it a week before putting anything on it, jobs a good un.

i was in the same boat when the missus decided last minute she didnt want surface mounted spots on the vaulted ceiling. I found some very thin lights from Alusso. Yeah, usual stuff you expect from the likes of Amazon but they are really slim. I actually prefer them much more than my "more legit" Tapo bulbs as when they change colour they fade between them, the Tapo GU10s just go hard from one colour to the next, less impressive. I battened out 50mm over my joists/insulation and also removed a small section of it behind each light just to give it a bit more breathing room, then used a light-box from Wago to make the connections. Probably overkill as these are always stone cold. Alusso Anyways, i use the RGB bluetooth version which are more like 30mm but you can get standard white ones that are like 19mm. I bought a ton of spares for when the company inevitably go under.

I completely foamed up between the floor and walls after plastering with FM330. Glad I did, finishes it off nicely. Foamed everything I could to be honest, quite satisfying.

not sure how much use this info is but i have some 4m bifolds, but under a steel beam and there has been no deflection. All work fine the last 10 years, it was the glass with integrated blinds that kept packing in. The beam was probably massively overspec.

A lot of my build is great. Some of it no so much but I was able to sort it/work around it. End of the day I won't recommend the builder to anyone, so his loss possibly. It's why I have trust issues with trades, always disappointed in some capacity.

builders "finished" in 2023. Then i spent a good 6 months working through the snags they left behind. Most joists are in pockets but there were a few like in the photo.

easily sorted, but you know, i shouldnt have had to do it. Crap workmanship.

Count yourself lucky. I found this beauty on the entrance to my new upstairs bedroom.

the most bizarre request ive ever heard i think. Not like you're showing them off to visitors.

my trusty, flimsy titan has got me through my build. He's had a rough life so will be out to pasture cleaning the car when he retires. Cost me more for the bags and the filter than the actual vac if i recall.

i just connected up my velux blackout blinds (internal) at the weekend. They connect to a pre-installed power plug on the side of the integras and its marked as 24v. The window themselves are 240v but that obviously goes to a transformer in the head of the window which you cant see. I didnt see any options to have these controlled "hard-wired" so to speak, and i did look into it at the time as it made more sense from a reliability standpoint. However the remote button has worked fine but i usually just ask google to open them for me.

actually, ive told you a load of boll0cks there. I used full "normal blocks" in the main wall and then used therms* above "flat" as they bridge the cavity and into the old roof space. I wanted that additional thermal protection at the top, plus they support no weight. *it was the skanky Wickes alternative as i coudlnt get therms the same day. Edges like razor blades.

I use air blocks or thermalites when I build most internal walls. Easier to manage, weigh next to nothing, can be cut with a saw. Added bonus of increased insulation values, what's not to like.

id just cut and splice with Wago if they are hard to get at. I have mine connected with Wagos in an easy to get at box, but thats just me. Could just whack a plug on the end of the it and test with the mains if you think they are totally dead?

the pins are on the manifold, the Salus' just wind down against it. Id just remove one and then see what the state of play is with the pin with some pliers first. Then call for heat and see if the salus responds while its in your hand?

I use a little PIR sensor connected to an led driver and then an led for at the top of my stairs. Only activates in darkness so comes on if I need to go to the loo at night, otherwise it just stays off. Pretty sure that would work for you.

My velux came with joints that you can rotate against themselves so you could just take the angle of the roof and then immediately bend it downwards. I guess you'd get a glimmer of sky, probably not very good to look at though with all the mounting hardware. I can see a slither of sky though mine but then the frosted cover hides that, and all the bird sh1t on the window itself.

Is OB1 just CT1 then, it's cheaper but I've never heard of anyone using it.

i used it to finish an internal brick wall i was leaving exposed as well. Ground off the majority, fill in the blanks and then a diluted brick acid over the lot. Came up like new. I did it on brick slips and that pulled a load of colour out of them though, you live and learn.

ive used this to clean my mixer and it works just fine. Link

whack a bit of 9mm plasterboard up with foam and then just paint it?

Draw your line then go at it with the SDS chisel each side. Easy really and it's neat enough, done it plenty of times in block.

my go-to, plus it smells sensational.

FM330 is my go to. Used it all around the entire perimeter and everywhere there is a gap in anything basically. Good stuff.

I drilled my own drain hole and tested the theory, sure enough any water getting between the cill and door then drained from this hole into the main cill that has drainage on the lip. I can only assume these holes were meant to be drilled by the installer, who for some reason didn't. I then siliconed all along the front edge. Filled the ends and put the caps back on. Fingers crossed this time.