Super_Paulie

If you've ever stripped old walls then you'd be surprised how drafty it is through any gap between bricks on the inner wall. Id imagine there's wind howling round cavities so you've got to do your best to stop that, I tend to just rake out and repoint but I do use FM330 if it's easier to do so.

looks like a catnic to me? Id do what you suggest, PIR in there, foam it in and then cover with wool where you cant get to it. Probably not worth using thermalites if the lintel is supported which it surely is.

its a fair comment. But as i was lowering the ceiling already i didnt want to lower it further. In the scheme of things, 12mm probably would have made sod all difference, youre right.

Just to put this to bed, job done. Just need to foam it in and tape it up, which I can't do until we have chosen our light position. Cutting a board down it's depth is horrible, but it meant I got rid of the remaining 50mm stuff I've had hanging around for years. Cheers Nick, onto the next thing.

The amount of debris you can generate per sqM is insane. I did the vaulted side to gain back the space as it was curved top and bottom and like 80mm thick and filled with rusted mesh. Whole thing was brutal, won't be doing that again.

id have to take the plaster and lath off in places. I took it all off in the vaulted section and quite frankly im never doing that again in my life. Ive tested cutting the 50mm between 2 lengths of timber and i can reduce the depth, but the question is should i, as id be losing the foil on the "inner" side.

i'll see what we have around here, not sure i can fit any in my 2 seater though no matter how small i cut it... I assume the secondary foil layer on the back is as vital as the one on the front, so hacking 10mm off the 50mm i have is a no-go? I have like 4 full boards left over from all my build stuff that im just stuck with, would be useful to use it up here.

Annoyingly you can't get 40mm from the sheds, and delivery is mental costly from insulation specialists, especially for like 2 sheets only. I have some 50mm but don't think cutting that sideways would be very easy...

my bathroom ceiling (first floor) is a mess, looks like its been a separate toilet and bathroom at one point and then converted into a toilet, bathroom and corridor. Now its all 1 room the ceilings are all over the place so ive lowered it down with C16 to get me a level surface. Its got a loft above with fibreglass insulation between, plastering lath is still here, and its going to stay there as well as its manky above it. My question is, should i fill this newly created dropped-ceiling void with tight fitting PIR and tape the timbers for my vapor control? The C16 is 38mm but packed out in places, often adding 25mm here and there to compensate the old ceiling, its that wonky. I could get PIR in there but it will leave dips and voids above it in places, any thoughts on mixed materials as i could pack it with 25mm fibreglass and then 25mm PIR level with the new, lowered ceiling timbers. Ceiling has a vent with an inline fan in the loft existing through the roof, room is small, 2.5m sq.

its an awful job, if i could spray i would. I used Leyland Eggshell on my MDF skirts downstairs, applied with a brush then a roller over the top to smooth it out, pretty good but it was 3 coats over the factory applied primer before i was happy. However. I recently used Zinnser BIN on my stair stringers and found it great stuff, applied with a foam roller. I havent top coated yet as im still in and out doing work but quite frankly it could pass a a top coat, looks amazin. 2 coats of that and it turned my 1930s turd-brown stringers totally white. I will likely go over it with the leyland eggshell when im ready. See attached stringer and scribed cover in Zinsser BIN.

Just to confirm, that vinyl over the blown tiles worked for almost 2 years until I removed it this week 👍

Thought about it, then just added a smart relay to every light switch. Came in handy especially when we decided that we didn't want a pendant over a table, but already had the wiring in. Just told the software to do something else when the switch was thrown (dim spotlights lights 50%). "Sexy time switch"

My calculations are around 15m of 16mm, not a lot at all. Sure it'll be fine 🤞🏻

The boiler runs at 50, the return temp gets to 40 ish before it hits the cycle. I was planning on using a valve on the bathroom bypass to control the bathroom UF. I have another bypass rad in the hall which is always open.

I'm off planning on running mine from the return on the bathroom rad/one of the bypass rads. Just snake the return under the floor on its way back to the boiler from the UF system.

6mm it is, cheers 👍 Tyneside? How dare you, I'm a Sunderland lad. 6 easy points, we have a beach etc. Love a stottie like it had to be said, add in a saveloy with pease puddin and you've nailed it.

Just about to order my sub floor for this, @Nickfromwales would you recommend 6, 9 or 12mm ply over the 22mm P5? Got my spreader plates at the ready.

Behind the walls or inside the cavity?

straight up (or down) from the edge/corner within 150mm zone and then horizontal to the switch. Then repointed. ?

Could be a fake wall I guess. Or could have ran the cable along the mortar lines and then repointed? It would still be within wiring zones by the looks of it. I went the conduit route myself.

i leave it maybe 4 or 5 minutes before pushing to wall. Needs bracing until it goes off, i tend it leave it braced for as long as possible, 30 minutes or more, sometimes with a mechanical fix as well. With Insta i found that it went solid a lot quicker as well. I mean im as happy as i can be in that the boards are still attached to the walls... Id use Insta over the Soudabond if it wasnt so pricey.

I used Soudabond for my whole place. Only difference from Insta seems to be it takes longer to "skin over". I used Insta when I couldn't get my usual stuff and was caught out as I left it 5 minutes like the souda and it had almost gone off.

i hope its not against the law to keep the window film on, all my upstairs UPVC still has it on 2 years later... 🤣

I just made them myself, I work in the design field so have access to laser cutters and what not.

i had about 10mm under my beam to the lower end of the joist, so i just packed the beam with wool and then PIR and aerogel underneath it and flew standard plasterboard over it, BC was happy with it. If i didnt have that depth id probably look at either doubling up the plasterboard on the ceiling (not a bad idea) but leave it short at the beam for insulation or batten out the entire ceiling to get that depth. That beam was stone cold before i did the above so quite the thermal bridge. On my upright encased in the cavity i sealed it up around the edges with airtight foam and tape and then glued aerogel to it. When i foamed my boards on i had enough of a void behind them to just fly over the aergel. I havent tried my thermal camera on it but i'll have a look later i think but so far no issues.