Super_Paulie

i used a GoPro 7 in a custom made "birdhouse" with a solar panel, but i was only recording a still every half hour. Lasted my entire build, apart from one week at Christmas were i think it got too cold.

stainless downpipe would like quite fitting in that space i reckon.

Yep, confirmed with the man himself. I need a vent or extraction to a certain level, either on the wall venting out or within the hob, which is what I've gone for rather than a dMev. Just because they looked fancy and I wanted to try it.

My previous timber deck was looking tatty after 10 years on the coast and that's with oiling every year. It was made with new scaffold planks. Anyways that's not my concern at the moment. I've ordered a back draft flap and I'll put it in, can't see it doing any harm.

No MVHR. Need extraction for BC signoff and I've already got the venting hob. I'll extend the duct to the end of the deck when I've built it, but I'll only get 10 years from the deck at best anyways.

Just looking to order the bits I need tonight. Should I be looking to put a shutter or back draft flap on this? The vent will exist low down at the same height as the existing air bricks which will in turn be under a suspended wooden decking eventually.

i'll see if i can capture it in a recording. Doesnt bother me to be honest, its just a sound that id never heard before with an open-ended standpipe.

be money well spent.

hi gang. Im starting the work on my kitchen island this week, more specifically the downdraft hob. As my floor is suspended, (UFH in biscuit on 170mm PIR) i have left an opening where the hob is to go so i can bring the ducting up into the cabinet from the outside wall. Its a 2m straight run from the double airbrick so i can simply pass a 2m 220x90 duct through from outside, my joists go in the right direction, no biggy. But it just dawned on me that this duct should be insulated as it will be pulling hot air down into the cold void below the insulation. Am i overthinking this or should i be looking to insulate the rectangular duct? if its at a slight dowanward angle away from the entry point under the cabinet then would it matter that there is condensation? - should i insulate the ducting somehow? https://domusventilation.co.uk/catalog_products/megaduct-220x90-insulation-1m/ - should i be putting a shutter or butterfly inline somewhere to stop backdraft into my warm house? Be interested in what other people have done here.

it really seems like its complicating matters and losing space for no real gain. It'll work for sure, but id prefer the space not be lost behind a cabinet and the socket in a neighbouring unit, its pretty standard stuff. Good luck to ya.

i took guidance from @Nickfromwales so i dunno, any thoughts Nick? i assume when the machine discharges its airtight in the standpipe so has to push that air out. Only noticed it when its on the drying cycle, cant confirm it does the same on the washing cycle so im guessing its pushing hot air through the waste. Can easily remove the spigot and just push the hose in, but id like to understand. When it exists the cabinet it goes directly into the stack.

i couldnt get a plug behind my machines unless they are way down at floor level, my machines are like 5mm from the wall when pushed home.

as you have the 2 appliances side-by-side you are going to still have to remove the hoses if you need to pull one out, so its not a huge difference to have to pull the plug out as well as the hoses. Id personally have the 2 single sockets under the sink. If you are worried about pulling the plugs for whatever reason then cut the plugs off and hard-wire to 2x FCU's and then all you have to pull through will be a skinny cable. As for the plumbing i went a standpipe with a sealed top per appliance. Seems to work just as well as an open top one to be fair but there are no chances of any leaks from an overflow. I have noticed it makes an "air bomb" noise when emptying into the trap, but im happy with it. If this is a utility room then id probably just put both hoses into spigots from the sink and close the door. Im open-plan, so need it quiet.

id swap it for anything. 3 years in and im goosed.

I've got a situation where I need to add a socket for a warming drawer half way up a tall unit. My original ring final wiring into the neighbouring "normal height" cabinet is only long enough to go into a single low socket, so I'd have to spur from this. However... The cabinet plumbing now doesn't allow me to get a socket in there at all, so my question is: Would you add a Wago/Wago box underneath the plinth to keep the ring intact and spur from this up to the warming drawer? I assume this is more legit then having a daft socket underneath the cabinets.

Sod it, everything else is new in here so what's another 500 notes. Cheers guys, unplugged and ready to go to dishy heaven.

Installing my kitchen today, noticed a smell of "heat". Traced it to the dishwasher (7 yeah old) plug, which was red hot and pliable. Opened it up and the fuse holder was melted. So I cut the plug off, new one on, tried again. Red hot again. Opened up the socket, nothing to see, looked normal. Ran it again from a different socket, red hot again. Never noticed it before, do these just run hot, seems abnormal. Should I just bite the bullet and bin it off, wasn't expensive. Just took delivery today of all my Neff ovens, they were expensive 🤦🏻‍♂️

I'm actually a 3D print professional at the uni 😆. It's easier to pay £5 for 2 from Screwfix

Sorted. Not 100% happy with it but needs must as I just didn't have the legs on the cables or any way to move the waste, both put in 2 years ago in "preparation"... I don't have shares in Pipesnug, but I think they are great as a grommet to tidy up edges when going through a cabinet. Second image for context, just needs the oak effect back installed.

PIR for me, foamed and aluminium tape all round, supported on full length battens screwed to the joists. I have UFH in mix on top but the floor is never cold at any time, on or off. Like above I tapered the board at the air bricks if I needed to.

That's what I'll do. Photo incoming to close the project off. 👍🏻

ive put a single plug on the ring in the neighboring unit. Single socket so nothing else can be plugged in the other side, its solely for that individual appliance. I defo wouldnt use a double socket for 2 thirsty devices at the same time. You could split the ring where it is and add in a cable between the new 2 single sockets. If the cable isnt long enough then you could use an unswitched socket directly behind the appliance and that switch running from an isolator elsewhere convenient. Thats what i was going to do, but turns out the cupboard next door was always applicable for me.

bringing the thread back on track, any preferred options on this conundrum?

yeah, tis. Its free-floating at the moment as there is nothing to stop it going up and down within the talon clips as its not connected to the incoming feed underneath yet 😁

it goes off to the fridge freezer. That was just a place holder, its actually a blue pipe now, but its the 8mm going through the 10mm id already ran. Fridge 3/4 to 8mm reducer doesnt thread on the check valve straight either, seems to follow the pitch of the thread but its water tight.