Super_Paulie

Thanks everyone, job done with a 2mm gap. I opened up the strike plate to give me a bit of wiggle room when it comes to adjusting it after painting. Once the glue has gone off I can get the filler over the nails sanded and the edges I assume caulked, need to look into that one. Cheers folks.

Thanks folks. Yeah it's the gap between the stop and the door I'm meaning, I have the gaps around the door all sorted at 2mm. So some of you guys say 3/4mm for paint, others 2mm 😆

Anyone got any tips on attaching the individual door stops to the linings? I've got the doors hung, the linings are all filled and sanded ready for paint but I've got to get the stops on first. As I'm painting the frames (not the doors) should I be leaving like 2mm all round to accommodate that additional thickness, and should that be more like 3mm at the hinge side? Planning on Zinsser BIN then my topcoat.

always love a "done in" photo mid-build.

Stone Plastic Composite. Probably all the same stuff.

im south facing with 2 sets of bifolds and its been fine. Mine is SPC for what its worth, but its ok so far.

Yep, love that @Tetrarch, great effort.

im still not sure what i really need, do i need it to be that flexible? The SPES seems to have the best of both worlds.

i was planning on using tile adhesive for the tray, as the welsh plumber @Nickfromwales recommends, with CT1 around the sides. So should i be going for the SPES gear all round?

I always left an expansion gap. One can assume with UFH and the south sun beating down it's gonna move. I left it maybe 5, 8mm from the edge of the doors and put a trim over it with the trim attached to the doors rather than the floor so it can expand underneath it without bucking. The rest was just a gap that you can't see once I'd added skirting. I did ponder having a sunken mat as well but ultimately couldn't be arsed with the hassle. My plan was the same as above with a trim from the mat well and then over the edge onto the floor with the LVT edge covered by this, I guess like an upside down L shape. Like I say I didn't go for it, so couldn't really advise on that one.

Yeah I've done it. I used a block and mallet on the short sides to put that home and an offcut and mallet to bring the long side into the tongue/groove. It's a fairly satisfying project I found. Easy to cut with a straight edge and a Stanley knife, just score it and snap, jobs a good un. With the UFH I often hear the odd click of a length popping out slightly I assume, but it hasn't been a problem so far and I'm 18 months in. Also dropped SWMBO's favourite ceramic ice bucket on it which exploded into a million bits but the LVT was undamaged. What I found a pain, especially in a big room, was trying to keep the pattern random. So a plank with as many individual designs as possible is a bonus, I was always fighting it trying to randomise it. Worked out nice though I thought.

tiles to primed plywood, shower tray to primed plywood and tiles to jackoboard.

whats the difference between these 2 then? "Standard set flexible" vs "Flexible Standard set". Ha'way man UltraTile, make it a bit more feckin obvious. Should i go for SPES because id imagine that stands for sommat important.

Looks like I'll be going with something similar. How do you feel about the hose going through the niche, that might drive me wild so might have to offset the niche instead.

Can't happen. It's in a corner with an external wall one side and stud wall the other, where "everything" will be. But the door is hinged right next to controls so that should avoid the cold splash issue by opening the door wide to turn on the controls.

Interested in opinions and experience tis all!

Me and SWMBO have had a few Proseccos and we're unable to agree on the best layout for our shower enclosure. See attached, really interested in opinions as we've never actually had a shower before unless in hotels... For reference, she's the shorter line on the left and I'm the longer line on the right. She needs to wash her hair, and shower and NOT wash her hair. I don't have that issue (bald). Entry is on the right, so controls on that side make sense to turn on without getting soaked in cold water. We need a niche of sorts as the enclosure is quite tight, 900x800 and we're hoping to not have a riser bar but if needs must. The smaller square up a height is a secondary location for the shower wand thing. We may have a young'un at some point also. At this stage, everything is still on the table as all I have so far is the ibox. Suggestions, design choices, opinions welcome 😁

I've got 2 plumbed in plinth heaters that fire across my 8m doors from either side. They are connected to my radiator circuit so rarely used, but when they are on the heat they chuck out is pretty impressive. I only put them in as I was dubious on UFH performance so just ran the plumbing before I locked my floor in. Turns out I shouldn't have worried, but I'd bought em, plumbed em, made sense to just whack them in at that point. I've got 2 Smiths SS5.

Would you go SBR over say Ultra Pro Primer Nick? I'll be doing my floor tiling job in the near future so I'm interested as I'm about to order my supplies.

annoyingly i didnt take any photos of that, but it was pretty easy. Im no expert plasterer and i was able to do it. When i had my opening i used CT1 on the tabs above the plasterboard before screwing up from below, then i used plasterboard adhesive around the gap between the boards and the valve itself. Scrim tape over that gap and skim over it all when doing the lot. Mist coat the ceiling, tidy up the edges to make round with some filler if needed and 2 coats of contract. Sand that back to flat then topcoat (Zinsser Permawhite) and its done. There is no bead on it, you just fly over the gap to the inner rim and deal with tidying that up after. It was pretty easy to make round as plaster/filler/contract matt sands back easily compared to the valve material which has more resistance, it wasnt a problem to make it perfectly round by just going round with sandpaper. I have to say it looks perfect and im well impressed, even after a chunk snapped off in screwup i was able to glue that back on and its flawless now once skimmed and painted. The magnet that keeps it on is crazy strong as well, bit tricky to take on and off to access the flow control but i cant see me changing that from fully open. I can recommend these, and im glad i pushed the boat out for it. Ive been looking at it non-stop the last few days, its a thing of beauty.

Can't you just skim it again? Put some extra-time in if the hit is too big. Speedskim and sponge float work for me as an amateur skimmer, followed by mist coat then 2 heavy coats of contract. Pole sand that back and its pretty much flawless, just takes time. If you use filler before paint you can never get that to flat back as the consistency is different between the mediums.

Done and done 🍺

😱 As the cover is plaster of paris I assume it's mega thirsty when I paint it. Just go with the same process, mist coat then the Permawhite over the top?

Bit quiet in here recently, so for your viewing pleasure... Still need to paint the lid but these things look the b*ll*cks.

i have my UFH in a suspended floor with 170mm PIR and a biscuit mix on top. Hassle to do but im very happy with the results. If i could go back in time id have just had a concrete slab poured for ease, id imagine it would have taken a third of the time to install with better results.