Super_Paulie

probably just keep an eye on it then and repair in the future if necessary. Fully expect it to crack at this point but onwards and upwards!

yeah its an absolute beast, 305x305. What can ya do, the engineers calculations came back with that and i aint gunna argue as we love it and everyone who sees it says how mad it is, a great talking point. Its marked "British Steel", id imagine it sat as surplus from a car park before it ended up in my house. Yeah it needs fire protecting, thats a christmas job. Anyways, so caulking the corners is not something to do? i'll just leave it then and caulk in the future when/if it cracks.

As I'm at the decorating stage, got a question for you guys. I have a hefty steel beam, with a small, maybe 2 inch section of plasterboard and skim above it and then the ceiling. Although this joint is fine currently, I'd imagine the house is still settling and thus the join will likely crack, no doubt as soon as I'm finished decorating. Would it be an advantage to mist coat, then go along the wall/ceiling join with decorators caulk before my final coats of paint? In my mind this will add a flexible joint in that section that will crack if it's just skim. Any opinions?

ive ordered some SBR so i'll go with that. Cheers guys.

You see, that's where I'm at. The internet was all this way or that way, and so far on here I've got the same. To be fair I painted my last wall and when I removed the tiles they came away like they weren't even attached in the first place. Not sure if that's a good or bad thing but I never experienced any issues in their lifetime. Really looking for a definitive answer on this, maybe run a poll?

Afternoon guys. My kitchen is ready to mist coat after a fortnight waiting for the fresh skim to dry. However, the middle third (above worktop but below wall units) is to be tiled across it's full length. I don't really want to leave bare plaster behind my units so I was going to mist them and then just whack some paint on to keep it nice and clean, but what about the section to be tiled? Should I just leave that bare plaster and then use something like SBR there? As usual, multiple conflicting advice online so buildhub to the rescue hopefully.

i did as Mike says, but i was moving 15mm. Sleeved in 22mm conduit, propped into place and then mortar back in. Also done the same job but used airtight expanding foam (FM330) as well as it was too awkward to get the mortar in without it being a mess and that has worked totally fine as well.

whatever happened to that gaff that was built on an old barge or tanker or something? the whole thing was an incredible watch.

i will move onto HA when i have finished building the place, but for now Google does what i need it to do (barely) like open the velux's and turn on lights that have no switches yet etc. All my Sonoff minis can be flashed to work locally, so when i have the time i'll move onwards and upwards.

I have pretty much every switch in my house running through Sonoff minis. So as well as potentially burning the house down im also sending everything I do to China. However they haven't let me down, work perfectly, and my bank balance remains at £0 so I haven't been robbed yet.

for what its worth, i have 100mm centres in a 30mm pug with Thermal Stream underlay but my original carpets and its average at best. That carpet will be going in the bin once i have finished the building work and getting something that is borderline invisible to get a quicker response. The back room with LVT is 4 times the size but heats up significantly quicker.

so you have flow but the Δt is 0... im not sure how that would be possible. Have you tried removing the actuators from those loops and just running them open to see if its actually flowing, is there any warmth at all?

for info i foamed in some PIR, levelled the sill with ply and looped the DPM over onto the ply and stapled it down, ready for a window board. Rightly or wrongly!

Hi guys. After some quick advice on one of my windows. I'm about to board the reveals, but the lower cill has no cavity closer like my other windows but it does have a DPM as a cavity tray going into the outside leaf. How am I meant to detail this, merely drop an insulated board over the top of the DPM? I can see outside brick under the frame of the window so not sure the best way to proceed. Cheers guys

thats weird, that never used to be the case at all. Still, good news on the sign off.

cant you just lash it with intumescent paint as it is and its job done? Rawlins will give you a certificate regardless of how well its been applied and that will be enough to satisfy BC.

Hi guys. Just about to plasterboard the extension ceiling but the trussed roof has joists that go in both directions. Am I better off keeping the direction of the boards the same, resulting in half the boards having just 1 screw line in the field (dead centre) and screwing in along the long edges? Or have the board change direction to keep my boarding screws mainly in the field. Hard to describe, here's a photo. The board going from right to left means the boards to the right in the photo will have the centre line at 600mm.

What Dave said. IP65 black junction box and extend the cables/connect the new light via Wago is probably what id do.

Plus I've had at least a few bird strikes into the doors and it's such a shock you literally nearly soil yourself. Also had a seagull actually fly in and walk around the kitchen.

sounds like youre bitter... just let it go, god speed.

agree to this. Was totally seduced by "Grand Designs" and went for double set of doors meaning the entire back end of the house cant be used for furniture at all. If i could go back id do what you suggest there for sure. Saying that, in summer its the absolute dogs danglies but summer is "blink and you'll miss it" here in the North East.

Would have 100% been more demanding to the builder to do what I had on the plans. I ended up with a lot missed off, things slightly out of place that had massive knock-ons, and just generally it was a bit shit. At the end of the day I was paying them to do a job, and it went on for that long I just wanted them gone but it's cost me months (years?) to work around the issues I was left with or rectify them.

Evening. I've added 100mm acoustic wool (SuperGlass) between the joists between the ground and first floor. The ground floor has UFH but upstairs has rads, which I hope to never use. Question is, is the 100mm enough to balance out the sound absorption and "slight" heat transfer I require? Deck is 22mm, ceiling is standard 12.5mm. Id rather not hear the missus stomping around to the latest Taylor Swift rubbish, but I don't want a bedroom that is absolutely baltic either. Any thoughts? Banana for scale. 🍌

could unscrew the actuator and see if it makes the noise when its not attached to the manifold? would at least tell you if its the actuator or the valve pin movement.

if you are going to remove your joists then go for it. If i could go back id remove all the joists and slab the entire thing, but its too late for me now.