Super_Paulie

Just making work for myself ain't I. Seen online that people double up the board but I guess that's more for sound reduction from the flush and waste. Deffo need plywood in some capacity to hold the wall hung unit, which I currently don't have so can't position it up.

Basin will be on top of the wall hung vanity, sat on top of a worktop though.

Any thoughts on this. I was going to just plywood over this before tiling so I've got strength for fixing wall mounted units. But I could also recess the plywood between each stud and then MR board over the top of that. Any benefits or just making work for myself?

Like Nick says, is what I did. Those bolt from each side things that came with DIY kitchens I simply didn't use, just screws behind the hinges or if I couldn't do that I just counter sunk and used the colour coded stickers.

I've got the thumb turner on my porch inside composite door. No letterbox so it was a no-brainer. Never lock the "front door" to the porch as we get deliveries to it all the time, but that's a normal key lock each side.

Best tool in the box when you're in a scrape. I've got a corded one but also a battery one at work which is significantly easier to use without the daft cable. For reference I've used it loads this week to cut waste pipes, plasterboard cut outs, small adjustments to timber, floorboard removal and sanding. Really is a "multi" device.

PVA eh? Any problems with it being above the shower though and reactivating? I guess not once it's been plastered and painted but thought I'd ask.

Probably the same as all the others I'd imagine.

Like the cyanide based stuff? Might get a tube of Gorilla Glue, seems well thought of.

Bit of a kick in the balls, when I was screwing up my plaster in grill it cracked a bit of. Not a chance I'm buying another for £70 a go, so what adhesive is best for this to stick the bit back in before I scrim tape and multi over the ceiling? CT1? plasterboard adhesive? 1 step forward, 2 back as per.

Looking at the recent reviews of that knauff adhesive, it's all 1 star, they may have changed the formula. That combined with the non primed boards I think I was on a hiding to nothing. It's like an immovable object now with the tile adhesive and I've foamed the gaps between. Even so, I'm going to mechanically fix with screws. Makes me wonder why they recommend stainless screws though when they will be getting coated with tanking anyways, surely they'll spend the rest of their lives dry as a bone.

Much better this time. Used some rapid set and did 2 boards at a time, seems solid now fingers crossed.

Just about to get some tile adhesive instead, sure it'll be stickier! I'll SBR the boards as well when I'm back in. No biggy, learning curve innit, appreciate all the help.

And adding number 3 to this! When I went to remove the spacers between the boards they just came straight off... The boards just didn't take to the knauff plasterboard adhesive. I guess I'll go tile adhesive and try again.

Ok, boards are on. Just need to do the mechanical fix and foam the gaps as above. Two questions have arisen though. 1. Does it matter if the screws are stainless, they'll be getting tanked over anyways? 2. I've got FM330 in the gun, but I'm thinking I should be maybe using something more sticky between the gaps like Insta Stick?

Id imagine the would make the trap in the basin gurgle as it creates a vacuum when the machine discharges and will pull water from the basin bottle. Change the bottle for a trap with an AAV built in? Or whack in a 40mm branch with the AAV on one side?

Great find, cheers Crispy. I was planning on dabbing rather than full fix but I guess it won't be far off once it's compressed anyways.

Each appliance is on its own waste so no AAV. Standpipe just to create the traps.

I think it was this.

How many you reckon is needed on a 1200x600 WEDI panel into the brick? Searched the entire internet and can't find the answer...

I am that plumber. During my renovations I had my washer on a hose that was about 5m long, absolutely no problem for like 3 years. Obviously not best practice but it certainly worked.

Why can't everything just be moved under the sink? Don't think I've ever seen any plumbing, water or waste behind the actual machines. Yes you lose the cupboard space, but so be it. My machines have a recessed section at the bottom so pipes can travel past it without interfering with the space. For what it's worth I did that in 2 places on the opposite sides of the room in my gaff, no regrets.

Onto the next one! Turns out the 20m of 16mm pipe I had left didn't give me enough to get under the shower tray but hey ho. Used the huge notches the previous owner made in my joists to pass though rather than add in my own. 25mm acoustic insulation, 75mm PIR then 50mm rockwool under the spreader plates. Dabbing the insulated tile backer boards onto the external wall next 💪🏻

Sorted, thanks Nick and everyone. Time to get the walls boarded.

Let's go!