Super_Paulie

They are black talon pipe collars, 2x15mm and a 10mm for the fridge feed. Just needed to take a slice off them to fit against the back of the cabinet. Pretty happy with it, and spent far too much time on it obviously.

Cheers guys, I've finished the job apart from cutting in the shelf. Bottle trap with separate stand pipe for the dishwasher and turns out I could also guide the 8mm fridge feed down through the 10mm pipe I already had in place which meant I could bring the 8mm feed straight into the cabinet manifold. Just need a few check valves for the tap flexi's. Cheers for all the input, onwards and upwards.

Id deffo try to have the cut edge the one that you dont see when opening the door, so hinge side, how often do you see that edge, almost never. I applied the heat edging before and it worked pretty good to be fair. My new doors are painted so it's stressful cutting the fillers, I just use a track saw with a 40t blade and then touch up paint along the raw edge if needed.

Pretty straightforward, just need to cut the standpipe to size. I ordered the "upgrade" you mentioned in a previous discussion which is compression elbow and a spigot for the top of the standpipe but the elbow has that flange inside and it won't go into the top so I assume I need a compression elbow-reducer to fit it. Other than that, I'm happy so far, cheers Nick. Edit. Actually just checked and the Floplast compression elbow doesn't have that internal flange like the McAlpine does.

are you saying like the attached @Nickfromwales, single check valves above the isolators with the flexi straight to them? i was really wanting to use these nice full bore Peglers for my isolation as the standard ones ive had the handle sheer off before with undesirable results, plus the Peglers look the nuts. In the attached i have one of those single check/washing machine valves you linked to, but i guess i could use a pegler and a single check here as well like the taps? As for the fridge, i already have a 5m 10mm pipe in place, which reduces to 8mm at the fridge so there is not a lot i can do about that as it is all under the floor already.

i was trying to keep everything over to the left hand side to keep the majority of the unit free of pipes. Probably a waste of time to be fair and like you say its just introducing more joints. The pipes coming in from underneath can be anywhere in the unit so im not restricted in that sense.

doing the work tonight i hope in my under sink, does anyone have any interesting ideas on how to make this more "elegant" or is this as good as it'll get? Do away with the drain cocks and just deal with a mouthful of water at maintenance time?

I used this recently on my stair stringer joining old to new and it seemed good. Same as any other 2 part id imagine but it sands easily within 20 minutes by hand and with an orbital after that, so it gets my recommendation.

Is that right. Hmm, my thinking is off here then. So basically I don't need any DCV's here?

My likely incorrect thinking is: - Tap could get dirty while cleaning, sending contaminated water back down into the mains. - Fridge water could contact something like meat or fish, going back through. (Unlikely) - Dishwasher, well I thought all appliances needed one. Happy to be told otherwise if my thinking is off.

While you're here Nick, any recommendations on a bottle trap that isn't sh1t3?

is this too many double check valves, am i going overboard on having them on the taps? Dishwasher feed needs one for sure, but what about the fridge water supply, that thing will be full of all sorts of left over kebabs etc. Any thoughts welcome.

I've been playing with my pipe this afternoon, and after that I thought I'd look at the plumbing under the sink. I've mocked this up with any old crap I could find in my plumbing box, so imagination is required. Then just a bottle trap at the end of this and Robert is my father's brother? @Nickfromwales

Guess I'll be cutting my shelf around a dirty great stand pipe but I'd prefer that to the gurgle I've lived with the past 2 decades.

I'm with you. Hard to visualise while enjoying the tones of Faithless at isle of white. Waste comes in, immediately a tee, one goes to a standpipe and the other to the bottle trap. Done plenty of pipework in my time but always used a combination trap. But now I'm open open living, this is what I need to be doing. Cheers Nick, as helpful as ever beyond the call of duty.

So would this suffice? Id be happier if I didn't need that upstand under there, more room in the cupboard for my dangerous chemicals. However I could do it if I were to sacrifice the shelf.

Interesting. So it's a separate trap basically. I'll see if I can fit that in, it's just a 600 unit with the exit far left maybe 300 up, sink dead center. Sounds like I need to play with my pipe tomorrow.

In my instance it's a dishwasher. I have a waste coming out directly from the wall so I have effectively got a straight pipe coming into the unit in the rear, back to front. Is the attached very crude image what you would suggest @Nickfromwales, with joining pipes obviously. Instead of the spigot I could make an upstand I guess but I wouldn't need that additional trap would I? Edit. Thinking about it this would syphon all the water from the trap wouldn't it as there is no air admittance.

Are you saying a bottle trap under the kitchen sink, with I guess a spigot before it for the dishwasher/washing machine? I'll be plumbing up this week and I will indeed stand united if I can. I'm partial to a nice but of pipe action, so I'm hoping to not do a lash up.

Yeah I'm gonna scrap the idea. Seems like something I'll end up having to maintain for the rest of my life. Cheers for the opinions friends 👍🏻

Cheers Nick, point understood from the resident expert. 👍🏻

Has anyone used or got experience of in-cabinet lighting? As I'm fitting the kitchen it seems like it might be an interesting project where an led activates from a small switch that flips when the door opens. Love to hear if anyone has done the above and how they did it. Off the top of my head a fused spur to the driver into say a wago box which then goes to every cabinet with a small gauge cable. A normally closed switch between the driver and the LED.

agree with that. My Google doorbell was/is battery, lasted about 2 weeks. "No problem" the missus said, just charge it. Easy for her to say, but it was me having to remove it every fortnight for the next 10+ years and that sounded hideous so i sent cables to it before plastering, job done.

do you have any images of how you do it Nick, any that you are proud of showing off? kitchen arrives this week so i need to plumb up and i was going to use a combination trap but if i can avoid it I will do.

Id just draw my line on and rip that without a fence but yeah you could make a fence or get a track.