Super_Paulie

Length wise I'm only looking at 2m on the horizontal until I hit the outer wall. Might do that and get BC sign off before I build my deck...

During a refurb I just can't see the point. I did think about these though for the bedroom, like a light switch either side of the bed as we haven't decided on the final bed position yet. In the end I just decided to go with a wireless ZigBee switch that controls a smart relay at the actual switch.

Evening you fine people. Not sure if this should be in this or ventilation, but here goes. The external ventilation from my downdraft hob. Would it be acceptable to bring the vent out under my bifold doors and thus under wooden decking (not built yet) I can't really see a way to get it up a wall as the rear of the house is pretty much all door...

not an expert by any means, but if it was my roof i wouldnt have any issues throwing a few 20mm holes along the centre line in advance of the insulation.

I have 2x SS5 and they are borderline silent on "normal" mode. I also got a SS7 which was noisy for me (tinnitus) so i replaced it with the SS5. Id imagine over time they will get noisy as they are at floor level and its basically a daft little fan which would dry out, get dirty etc but its nothing a bit of a dismantle and clean wouldnt sort out.

im doing the same thing on my 30's place, but on an internal exposed wall. I did various mixes and found out that by simply throwing a "1" of sharp sand gave me the aggregate look on the surface random enough to blend in.

i have a Sonoff at the switch and every bulb is a Tapo so can dim, change whites or any colour you fancy. Wont ever use it, but you know, "Smart stuff".

You can get talon covers in various colours. I got black ones to attempt to match the nickel valves, looked crap so went for the chrome version instead, much happier and just polished up the small amount of copper. Suggest you try that for a few quid first, and either polish the copper or use a matching chrome pipe snap cut to size?

I have exactly this in the original 1930s part of the house. It's what you think it is, a long wooden dowel that is nailed to wedges in the corners of brick work. I have exposed a wall and recreated the detail with the original method, see attached in an awful photo you can see the wedge top right. Brought back memories of painting that wall that blue/green and then 2 days later painting it back over again with something less sh1te.

😆 I looked at the post, realized i had no better alternative to what you had already done. Thought either a) hole in the bottom of the box to exposed air to atmosphere or b) silica gel in the box. Neither would work id imagine.

for what its worth i used these open frame jobs and seemed decent enough. House hasnt burned down yet, i just pushed the acoustic wool out of the way with the bulb frame. https://integral-led.com/en/catalog/node/evofire

I did not, was a right chew on. Did insulated on the heads where i could but the whole thing was a clart about and im glad its now over...

not too dissimilar to my own efforts. 50mm PIR between the battens, 120mm on top of the battens, 30mm pug. Absolutely no problem getting the house to 23 if i want it, but i just set the entire downstairs to be 21 during the day with a 20 night-time setback, house is always just nice and warm. The smaller front room is north facing, has a non-insulated bay window and a carpet, all of this means that room is no where near as comfortable as the extension 3 times the size of it. Carpet will be changed for low tog (already got the thermalstream underlay), its just whacked down until the rest of the house is done as its a walkway from my workshop (bedroom) to the new extension. It does short cycle when only the small loop is open, but im still to add more volume to the system (already have a 50l tank in the loft) in the bathroom and a hall rad which will help a tad, im not worried by it. The whole thing was a real laborious job but i just couldnt trust a fitter (in my price range) to do the job to the standards id have liked. And as for my new triple panel uber pricey radiators... never used.

35mm for me, consistency around all the new windows meant various depth reveal boards, 9mm, 12.5mm and 6mm Wedi-board to achieve it.

i was worried about the chemicals leeching into the plasterboard but it never happened and i am currently still alive so the air quality must be ok.

my local timber place only seems to stock battens and most timbers that are treated these days. Guess it'll last forever indoors.

i mean, wasnt/isnt the obvious answer to just cut a few boards if you want them to match up? probably why there werent any answers as its kinda self explanatory...

Id be tempted to remove a few rows of tiles to check it out from above. It's a shame they didn't do the insulation as good as they should as it looks a decent job otherwise. This is why I have trust issues with trades... I did ask my own insulation and foamed and taped absolutely everything as belt and braces, my roof level PIR is angled to meet the insulation in the cavity which I think you may be missing? Id get some of those tiles off to check it out as my place is never cold even though it's a 1930s.

yeah you can do them to the height of the existing. My BC officer said this in December 2023: "You are correct that the regulations, for new dwellings, would be for sockets to be placed at the height of 450mm. Given that you are replicating the existing arrangements, I would have no objections." For what its worth i did mine lower to match existing but in hindsight i wish i made them higher.

Who knows, id imagine so but I have no way to measure such a thing. I insulated the upright more to stop condensation behind the plasterboard. All I know is the house is 23° and the beam is warm to touch even though outside is -2°.

No idea how long it would have held up for, obviously I stopped after like 90 seconds as I think my point was proved. Was interesting though and as the beer had been removed from the box I simply had to drink it.

10mm PROCTOR Spacetherm® Silica Aerogel STRIPS - 2400mm x 280mm £35 Yeah i got my calculation of how much it needed and just kept going until the tin was empty, which was almost bang-on 3 coats. Each coat took around 6hrs to put on... Video incoming. Not a huge amount but it must have turned into something else when it burnt as it didnt even leave a mark on the inside of a very thin beer can box. No beer was harmed during the making of this video. Setting fire to things

probably sod all difference, but im always willing to try new tech and it seems to do the job i want it to.

i used Envirograf in the end, after Rawlins said i couldnt apply the paint myself. Jason at Enviro was extremely helpful all round, did the calculation for me, said i could paint it DIY and when i asked about the topcoat he said, and i quote "If you are going to use your own top coat Paul we advise doing a small test area first to ensure the top coat and intumescent is compatible." I did the test and it was fine so cracked on. For what its worth the topcoat I used ended up the same cost as a tin of paint from Enviro. Once done i got the certificate, gave that to BC with photos of the job and it was signed off. This was about 3 weeks ago and the whole painting process is something im trying to forget, but may never do so... I tested the intumescent on a carboard box with a blowtorch, this stuff actually works.

yeah, ground it clean, primed it, intumescent painted it and then eggshell over the top. Probably one of the most long-winded jobs ive ever done in my life as its over 8m long and exposed on 3 sides. Here is a pic of it after the intumescent.