Super_Paulie

Can't happen. It's in a corner with an external wall one side and stud wall the other, where "everything" will be. But the door is hinged right next to controls so that should avoid the cold splash issue by opening the door wide to turn on the controls.

Interested in opinions and experience tis all!

Me and SWMBO have had a few Proseccos and we're unable to agree on the best layout for our shower enclosure. See attached, really interested in opinions as we've never actually had a shower before unless in hotels... For reference, she's the shorter line on the left and I'm the longer line on the right. She needs to wash her hair, and shower and NOT wash her hair. I don't have that issue (bald). Entry is on the right, so controls on that side make sense to turn on without getting soaked in cold water. We need a niche of sorts as the enclosure is quite tight, 900x800 and we're hoping to not have a riser bar but if needs must. The smaller square up a height is a secondary location for the shower wand thing. We may have a young'un at some point also. At this stage, everything is still on the table as all I have so far is the ibox. Suggestions, design choices, opinions welcome 😁

I've got 2 plumbed in plinth heaters that fire across my 8m doors from either side. They are connected to my radiator circuit so rarely used, but when they are on the heat they chuck out is pretty impressive. I only put them in as I was dubious on UFH performance so just ran the plumbing before I locked my floor in. Turns out I shouldn't have worried, but I'd bought em, plumbed em, made sense to just whack them in at that point. I've got 2 Smiths SS5.

Would you go SBR over say Ultra Pro Primer Nick? I'll be doing my floor tiling job in the near future so I'm interested as I'm about to order my supplies.

annoyingly i didnt take any photos of that, but it was pretty easy. Im no expert plasterer and i was able to do it. When i had my opening i used CT1 on the tabs above the plasterboard before screwing up from below, then i used plasterboard adhesive around the gap between the boards and the valve itself. Scrim tape over that gap and skim over it all when doing the lot. Mist coat the ceiling, tidy up the edges to make round with some filler if needed and 2 coats of contract. Sand that back to flat then topcoat (Zinsser Permawhite) and its done. There is no bead on it, you just fly over the gap to the inner rim and deal with tidying that up after. It was pretty easy to make round as plaster/filler/contract matt sands back easily compared to the valve material which has more resistance, it wasnt a problem to make it perfectly round by just going round with sandpaper. I have to say it looks perfect and im well impressed, even after a chunk snapped off in screwup i was able to glue that back on and its flawless now once skimmed and painted. The magnet that keeps it on is crazy strong as well, bit tricky to take on and off to access the flow control but i cant see me changing that from fully open. I can recommend these, and im glad i pushed the boat out for it. Ive been looking at it non-stop the last few days, its a thing of beauty.

Can't you just skim it again? Put some extra-time in if the hit is too big. Speedskim and sponge float work for me as an amateur skimmer, followed by mist coat then 2 heavy coats of contract. Pole sand that back and its pretty much flawless, just takes time. If you use filler before paint you can never get that to flat back as the consistency is different between the mediums.

Done and done 🍺

😱 As the cover is plaster of paris I assume it's mega thirsty when I paint it. Just go with the same process, mist coat then the Permawhite over the top?

Bit quiet in here recently, so for your viewing pleasure... Still need to paint the lid but these things look the b*ll*cks.

i have my UFH in a suspended floor with 170mm PIR and a biscuit mix on top. Hassle to do but im very happy with the results. If i could go back in time id have just had a concrete slab poured for ease, id imagine it would have taken a third of the time to install with better results.

i pole sanded my ceilings and walls and quite often i dab on a bit of thick contract where there may be a little nick or divot and then just flat that back once dry. I find that works way better than any filler and it sands like its not even there with a sanding sponge. Ok thats what i'll do in the bathroom as well then, then cover in Diamon or more likely the Zinsser. I did my plastering in the bathroom as its only small so im ok to smother that in contract to fill it bits i may have left a bit rough. Cheers lads.

Id only be using contact matt for it's filling and sanding qualities, that'd be ok as an undercoat in the bathroom, right?

I'll be painting my bathroom ceiling this weekend and I'm after a few opinions. After plastering everywhere in my place I usually mist coat with contract matt and then a heavy coat of contract to act as a type of filler-paint, filling in small imperfections that I get in my admittedly just above average skim. I then sand this back before my final 2 coats of vinyl, a technique I got from @Nickfromwales and it's worked great for me. My question is, what's everyone's favourite bathroom ceiling paint, I've been looking at Zinsser Permawhite. And will I be ok to do my usual contract matt-pole sander-topcoat technique in the bathroom?

pretty sure my post was dropped onto threaded bar on a pad extending from the founds, or at the very least you could just resin bolt them in. Ive had a look and have no photos of it going in, the builders just did it all. You'll have to go back to your SE surely to see how thats meant to go in, as mine was drawn in by them. It is a thermal bridge as its in the cavity and into the inside but its insulated behind it obviously and a strip of aerogel over it on the inside and the thermal camera doesnt pick it up now its all boarded.

i used 50mm as the 75mm you can only get from insulation merchants really in bulk. Centre of the stud, plenty of room for pipe or cable drops. Its great stuff like has to be said, i love working with it in comparison to any other type of insulation. Cut slightly oversize with an old bread knife, whack it in and its self supporting. Easy to cut around boxes or reduce its thickness around services. It works a treat as well it really does.

i run mine at 42 at the manifold. Any lower and its short cycle city from my combi which is at 50.

Thanks gents, Screwfix beckons.

Just about to rough fit my iBox2. The manual states the connection is RP 1/2, is that just a normal half inch fitting? Never heard of anything labelled RP before so just thought I'd check what you guys with experience think.

Your rest bend will have the rubber seal on the inside with the stack as the male section going into it. Even if it did degrade you'll still be totally fine I'm sure. 👍🏻

I've got an internal rest bend that would be pretty much impossible to get to without major surgery. Frankly I haven't given it a second thought, works just fine. I guess you/I could rod it from the nearest outlet, which I have as a dishwasher just above the rest. Can't see how it would ever crack to be honest.

For what it's worth, the majority of my bench height sockets have both A and C. The one on my island is a high power one so can charge the laptop up while sat at it. Use them most days and if it ever becomes obsolete id just change them to whatever comes out next. USB-D 🤷🏼‍♂️

Me as well. SWMBO wanted the vanity as clear as possible as the room is so small. So I plan on having this within the wall, with a window opening. Vanity over the top with the rear cut out so I can access. Sounds ok in theory.

Cheers guys, I've finished the job. I plan to shutter around the timber for something to tile up to, and then clad around this in edged material like the backer board. So it's an in-wall manifold, if you like. Had to get creative to connect to the incoming mains, but it's all holding pressure. For now!

I wash my face in cold water anyways Nick! Great, saved me a few quid and more importantly saved the space for my manifold. I did put checks on my kitchen sink mixer, I guess that wasn't worth it but the job is done and I ain't going back to it. Was easy to attach the tap flexis too I guess.