MikeSharp01

Then it all comes down to rate of delivery for DHW, there are electric combi boilers but the rate they deliver is pitiful - this one delivers 12L/M and needs a three phase supply, we need some massive kit that can deliver 20L/min at 50 deg C. You will have the potential current from the batteries - the average EV is many 10s of KW so not a problem energy wise it is down to getting it into the water fast enough.

Well it must be huge - we did our garden room through Howdens and it came in at 4k including appliances + fitting.

We used AFT (Advanced Foundation Technology) they did all the SE stuff on the slab based on what the structural SE said the loads were. It was not in Scotland but I know they work all over and his design got BC sign off.

Yes that is also an option - as I say if you cannot measure it you cannot control it.

Yep hot air rises so if you control it at the bottom it will affect the top but you probably need both and one right at the top of the house. The slab is the largest mass so controlling its temperature will use a big proportion of energy so you need to be in control of that as if things get out of hand there, heat wise, everything can go pear shaped and comfort on the floor is a key factor. You need one right at the top of the house to manage the accumulation of heat, open / close roof lights etc. Broadly the general rule that: 'if you cannot measure it you cannot control it' is in play here.

MVHR is more than air quality it also recovers heat and if you have the windows open in the winter you might find that feature valuable - unless you have pots of money and don't mind the challenge extra heating give the planet.

That's a long time to hold it in - constipation or what.

Yep, but I may leave it as it adds colour and this thread explains - if @PeterW is baffled then we may need it as evidence.

Nope - that's a bug by the looks of it - I didn't put it there.

How did the sticker get into my post?

Did the tiler keep the outcut - why not just grout it back in and call it a talking point

Can you still get into the floor? I used some lengths of UFH tube back to the plant room and fitted one of THESE DS18B20 probes in each which are; bog standard, very cheap and easy to interface to. (I had to cross calibrate them before I fitted them - I think @Jeremy Harris describes how you do this in one of his blogs.)

There seem to be a load of solutions out there to this. Really to make it most effective you need to have a system that can use the house parameters, decrement delay etc, and then can get ahead of the weather by however many hours you need in all the various circumstances. You can get an API, I have been playing with this one, feed for the weather forecast in your area but just spotting the sunlight and temperature in the right places should do it. We have several south facing windows and I have put temp probe pockets in the slab 1.5m back from the windows so if it starts to get ahead of the UFH I can react to the additional heat coming in either by adjusting the circulation to this zone or take the heat to other zones. I also intend to put a sun sensor on the roof although I could get some of the data about sun from the solar array it is not 360deg. The API is very clever, you could use the hourly rain forecast to close roof lights before it starts raining - when the roof lights close (cows lay down) it is going to rain.

Hi Rob. Two members I am aware of, there are probably others, have Genvex MVHR systems - @Jeremy Harris and @PeterStarck hopefully they will be able to help. I also wonder why you would need to oil a fan, most such systems have life sealed bearings. Most MVHR system have summer bypass modes so you still get the ventilation but don't recover the heat. If you are happy to have open windows then you may get away with turning it off but also if you have an ultra airtight home you may degrade the air quality without the MVHR running and the windows closed.

Will you be using a separator membrane underneath the tiles, in which case the tiles can / should have an expansion gap around the edges? There is no problem with the cuts I can see although is the underlying concrete gets stressed (bent) then it should crack along the cut lines because it is thinnest there - this is not a problem and unless your concrete was reinforced massively this is a natural thing anyway.

Whatever boarding you choose you will need to get a good fan in there to extract the smells but also help to keep moisture at bay as @Ferdinand says. I seems to me than unless you are going for a full wet room tanking might not be value for money as good tiling, and the multipanel approach, sealed well to the floor / tray / bath are good enough even in the shower area. We use seam sealed Wedi board throughout our wet room here at Millstone manor, 20 years now no problems, and Hardie backer on our builds garden room wet room - no problems although that has had very intermittent use so far.

Hi and welcome. You don't need a percolation test unless the BC wants to see one in relation to to soak aways. I did my own and because it is well know that where we are is basically clay the result was no measurable percolation. We ended up feeding rainwater to the local ditch which is allowed if you get permission from the local water company.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like Minded individuals. Whereabouts in Stirling are you building, spent a chunk of my not so misspent youth as it turned out, chasing after a girl at the Uni there, been married now for 35 years still think of the place fondly and often drop by when visiting friends in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Fife...

Welcome to the forum - you may nee a good Structural Engineer to make sure you don't do anything that undermines the upper structure.

Looking very good - Remind us what that was? I thought there was a fix for it

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like minded individuals.

Yes it has to be in plastic - Calor have a specification for the pipework and all the fittings - they tell you how much to leave at each end for connection by an approved installer at the house end (the final regulator) and at the tank end where they connect to and push it through a protective pipe up to the tank itself - they don't like joins. We had to do this when we moved our tank here at millstone manor and ran the pipework around the extension.

Are you close to the sea?

If one slip coupler not long enough then use two with a length of pipe between

You wold need to make a section that filled the piston ring cut otherwise you would have a hole. My idea was really to seal around the face of joint if there was a leak though a previous glue job.