MikeSharp01

Welcome to THE forum. You are indeed in for one hell of a ride but the rewards, not the least of which is being part of this community, mostly outweigh the low points.

Welcome to THE forum. Those jumping jack compactors are really for trench bottoms, they compact a very narrow strip. You can use them all over but they are hard to control unless until you get into practice, have you started it up? As long as you don't set it too jump to high you should be fine but it will take longer that the type @ProDave is exhibiting above.

Welcome to THE Forum for self builders and like minded individuals.

Don't forget to look at the COP curve as you want best COP for the majority of your needs so trying to max out the COP for average heating day seems like a good approach to me. So although an 8.5Kw unit has stacks of grunt (Units not determinable) when you need it how much COP will it be (Pardon the pun) when running at 3Kw? Which it perhaps will be most of the time.

Across the floor or in a groove cut for it? Best is to put 20mm conduit through then you can pull individual 2.5mm cables in. The radius depends on how big for a 13A spur probably 40mm in SWA @ 2.5mm. Are you extending the ring or running a spur - you will need to approach them differently from a wiring regs point of view. With a spur I would fit a switched fuse local to the socket the cable is coming from on the ring, although not a requirement - you do have to match the current capacity of the protection device on the ring with the cable and 2.5mm SWA is rated at 36A or there abouts, its just another layer of protection as you don't have the two way loop of the ring to handle sudden high currents when someone later wires a whole load of other sockets of the one you are fitting! PS Welcome to THE forum.

The 45 degree rule & right to light is much discussed here so you should find some support. I think we turned it over last week: Have a look here:

Don't worry we all have our crosses to bear.

Welcome to the Forum for self builders, renovators and like minded individuals. Sewage treatment is well covered here but we do not have a separate section for old house renovation, perhaps we should? In the meantime you can tag things as you post them so people can find them. With over 5000 members there must be loads out their with similar interests.

I find fixing stuff to PB is such a pain that I need some sort of pattress to fix to.

We used 12mm Hardiebacker board, on 15mm OSB for the Garden room and will use the same in the main house shortly.

Yes but how - the basement will be air tight and need to be secure so is it louver's or some such?

Does the design include a specific stack or are you just using strategic roof windows as vents high up? How do you let the air in low down?

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for self builders and other like minded people! (I say like minded with a bit of a nod to our sanity....)

This is where they make their mistake I feel. All these systems should be open and not demand a central server connection. I am happy to share my data but on my terms. Here the RS485 interface is indeed worthwhile but I have a concern that we won't stop this IoT bulldozer. However many industrial users of IoT have exactly the same concerns as us diminutive users so I have a small hope while anybody who thinks you can buy a car that does not tell the manufacturer exactly where you are and what you are doing has got another think coming.

I think we all do, but as it is the only current platform and more secure IoT systems will more than likely build off it one is left with the challenge of creating security systems. We have discussed this here before but never really got to the very bottom of it. I am something of a fan of secure mesh networks of IoT but the security stuff continues. Any system connected to the WWW is susceptible in the end and I am definitely not a fan of the house protocols around the smart speaker systems and all their gadgets which hoover data and have too many security loop holes. As a nation, probably the people of all nations, we need to get control of our data from these systems although big tech would argue that we have nothing to fear - but if that were true....

If they have had the conservatory for 20 years then they will have a right to light, as I understand it, if there is an architect on the other side they will know this, perhaps thinking they can avoid issues by mentioning it now, or maybe even assume that you also know the implications. The planners don't need to enforce the right to light per se as it is a civil matter and you can either pay compensation for their loss - perhaps that is what they are hoping but you need to be sure of the facts. You have already looked at the 45 degree rule but have you applied it to the correct element and again IIRC it is not used to determine right to light calculations. Have a look here: http://www.123plans.co.uk/uploads/frontend/media/documents/rightstolight.pdf

I guess that is the bit I was wondering about. It feels much simpler to integrate with the house IoT if it is one of the things out of the box rather than via the house RS485 bus. I do agree on the tool chains issue, I now have tools, and special laptops, running tools going back to 1992 for some of the stuff here, EG the clock in our bell tower, no bell sadly, uses a PCB and micro controller board I designed in 1990 and only now am I thinking is it time to switch over to an ESP based module.

I have to do it with a microscope these days. Why didn't you choose an up spec micro controller module with all the interfaces and make the diverter controller portion shield pluggable? I guess processor speed might be an issue but there are some very fast boards out there.

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for selfbuilders. 150mm of insulation is OK if its PIR but anything else will need 300mm+ to get great energy saving and up there the average temperature is not in your favour. We are stick building with 300mm I-joists in Kent, fitted the last stud today!

Is your ground higher or lower? You need to remember that they may also wish to build up to the fence line at some point.

Is the new wall in any way a retaining wall - this makes a difference. If the neighbour has only a building regs question then I would offer to get the BCO to set out the reason all is well so as to reassure them, if the BR things is a smoke screen for something else then you need to find out what the something else is before working out your strategy. Boundary disputes can go on and on so you might find a few searches of the Land Registry DB helps as your deeds may not show it but theirs, or someone else in the row, does.

Unless you are going for Passive house standards in which case you need a different metric, PHPP - n50≤0.6 ac/h, and even better air tightness. Sadly the conversion between PHPP units and SAP (Air Permeability - AP) units is not simple as one uses just the volume of the property to calculate total air changes per hour while the other uses the surface area as well, and is measured per m2 , to calculate the AP. if you know both volume and envelope area you can do the maths and compare the two values.

Do you already have planning permission or are you trying to get it? I think the latter but thought it would be worth checking. How long have the neighbours lived there with the conservatory? If it is longer than the right to light trigger period then you may have a problem if any part of the new build overshadows any window. Have you had a sun track plot done to show how the shadow moves as this will help you either prove your case or understand theirs? Neighbours have rights to light but not to the views. PS is the plan North South (IE the new build faces due south) - if so then you can see their issue. PPS infringing a right to light (must meet the criteria) can be VERY expensive as they can sue you for damages to their utility and enjoyment!

Oh er ?

Ok - so if the wisdom of crowds holds then, given the guesses to this point, we have an average of: £557.18, without factoring in the parking fines idea - that feels high. Assuming a fine of £35 (worst case for Brighton & Hove higher, see below) if you pay early and Mr P is not toying with us by giving us the clue that if you paid early it would be cheaper to pay the fines - and, by extension that it would be more expensive to pay the full fine, then the range, per bay, is between £75 (3 days lower rate) and £210 (3 days full fine higher.) However we have no idea how many vehicles will need parking although we have a variety of guesses at that above. So if three days / 3 bays then worst case £630 and best case £225 so after careful consideration and trying to get a best estimate I think I will go for £400! Parking fines from Bright & Hove web site. Level of charge Amount of charge Discount charge if paid within 14 days from the date of the issuing of the notice Higher £70 £35 Lower £50 £25 Bus lane £60 £30