MikeSharp01

The time has come to put the PIR insulation, mainly 40mm thick, on the outside of our timber frame and I am looking for the best anchor system? The build up is I-Joist studs and rafters covered in 15mm OSB. The Insulation is on the outside of the sheathing and fixes directly to it. We can put the fixings on the Joist lines but as structural fixings for the cladding need to go on the joist lines I would prefer to use the sheathing as the anchor point for the PIR. The range looks vast - the hammer type anchors look to be for Brick / block substrates will they work into OSB? I have looked at "surelino" but our insulation is 40mm and the minimum looks to be 50mm although the fixing is only 35mm long. Any ideas / advice?

They can both invalidate it pre-decision and revoke the permission post decision if they find the application fraudulent during or after. We had a local issue where a developer claimed to have been living on the site, in what was essentially a tin shed, for the previous 10 years. It got through permission but a previous owner of the land spotted the diggers and wondered why they were clearing the site, investigated and told the council that there was never anybody living there, provided proof - they had owned it until 3 years before and so the council revoked the planning permission.

They can if they find the basis of the original validation was predicated on a falsehood! (IE somebody somewhere didn't tell the truth!)

Wow - he likes tricky detail challenges doesn't he - taking pipes out through the edges of glass and loads more.

I guess it needs to be as that is its reason for being but it does have, differs by country of adoption, some limits elsewhere to stop a person with a a 10 Hectare solar & wind farm building a single skin glass house. Which EU country's regs was the house you worked on aligned to? The N(ZEB) idea has been around since 2010 but the UK has not adopted it - mainly opting out of anything that might upset colleagues in the big housebuilders. You can read the starting point here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32010L0031&from=EN (Page 17) from there you need pick a country if you want details and Ireland is the easy one as theirs is in English and they are taking it seriously. We (me and my other half) are going for PH with a SAP of over 100 which should meet a theoretical N(ZEB) depending on how you feel about how good SAP actually is as a proxey for engergy efficiencey.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and other like minded types. I suppose that as long as you have thought through how the ridge will be done, IE which pattern of tile, or neither, will be the ridge be and how will it sit on the different tiles, and also assuming that there are no conservation area issues you should get away with it.

Welcome to THE forum. You are indeed in for one hell of a ride but the rewards, not the least of which is being part of this community, mostly outweigh the low points.

Welcome to THE forum. Those jumping jack compactors are really for trench bottoms, they compact a very narrow strip. You can use them all over but they are hard to control unless until you get into practice, have you started it up? As long as you don't set it too jump to high you should be fine but it will take longer that the type @ProDave is exhibiting above.

Welcome to THE Forum for self builders and like minded individuals.

Don't forget to look at the COP curve as you want best COP for the majority of your needs so trying to max out the COP for average heating day seems like a good approach to me. So although an 8.5Kw unit has stacks of grunt (Units not determinable) when you need it how much COP will it be (Pardon the pun) when running at 3Kw? Which it perhaps will be most of the time.

Across the floor or in a groove cut for it? Best is to put 20mm conduit through then you can pull individual 2.5mm cables in. The radius depends on how big for a 13A spur probably 40mm in SWA @ 2.5mm. Are you extending the ring or running a spur - you will need to approach them differently from a wiring regs point of view. With a spur I would fit a switched fuse local to the socket the cable is coming from on the ring, although not a requirement - you do have to match the current capacity of the protection device on the ring with the cable and 2.5mm SWA is rated at 36A or there abouts, its just another layer of protection as you don't have the two way loop of the ring to handle sudden high currents when someone later wires a whole load of other sockets of the one you are fitting! PS Welcome to THE forum.

The 45 degree rule & right to light is much discussed here so you should find some support. I think we turned it over last week: Have a look here:

Don't worry we all have our crosses to bear.

Welcome to the Forum for self builders, renovators and like minded individuals. Sewage treatment is well covered here but we do not have a separate section for old house renovation, perhaps we should? In the meantime you can tag things as you post them so people can find them. With over 5000 members there must be loads out their with similar interests.

I find fixing stuff to PB is such a pain that I need some sort of pattress to fix to.

We used 12mm Hardiebacker board, on 15mm OSB for the Garden room and will use the same in the main house shortly.

Yes but how - the basement will be air tight and need to be secure so is it louver's or some such?

Does the design include a specific stack or are you just using strategic roof windows as vents high up? How do you let the air in low down?

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for self builders and other like minded people! (I say like minded with a bit of a nod to our sanity....)

This is where they make their mistake I feel. All these systems should be open and not demand a central server connection. I am happy to share my data but on my terms. Here the RS485 interface is indeed worthwhile but I have a concern that we won't stop this IoT bulldozer. However many industrial users of IoT have exactly the same concerns as us diminutive users so I have a small hope while anybody who thinks you can buy a car that does not tell the manufacturer exactly where you are and what you are doing has got another think coming.

I think we all do, but as it is the only current platform and more secure IoT systems will more than likely build off it one is left with the challenge of creating security systems. We have discussed this here before but never really got to the very bottom of it. I am something of a fan of secure mesh networks of IoT but the security stuff continues. Any system connected to the WWW is susceptible in the end and I am definitely not a fan of the house protocols around the smart speaker systems and all their gadgets which hoover data and have too many security loop holes. As a nation, probably the people of all nations, we need to get control of our data from these systems although big tech would argue that we have nothing to fear - but if that were true....

If they have had the conservatory for 20 years then they will have a right to light, as I understand it, if there is an architect on the other side they will know this, perhaps thinking they can avoid issues by mentioning it now, or maybe even assume that you also know the implications. The planners don't need to enforce the right to light per se as it is a civil matter and you can either pay compensation for their loss - perhaps that is what they are hoping but you need to be sure of the facts. You have already looked at the 45 degree rule but have you applied it to the correct element and again IIRC it is not used to determine right to light calculations. Have a look here: http://www.123plans.co.uk/uploads/frontend/media/documents/rightstolight.pdf

I guess that is the bit I was wondering about. It feels much simpler to integrate with the house IoT if it is one of the things out of the box rather than via the house RS485 bus. I do agree on the tool chains issue, I now have tools, and special laptops, running tools going back to 1992 for some of the stuff here, EG the clock in our bell tower, no bell sadly, uses a PCB and micro controller board I designed in 1990 and only now am I thinking is it time to switch over to an ESP based module.

I have to do it with a microscope these days. Why didn't you choose an up spec micro controller module with all the interfaces and make the diverter controller portion shield pluggable? I guess processor speed might be an issue but there are some very fast boards out there.

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for selfbuilders. 150mm of insulation is OK if its PIR but anything else will need 300mm+ to get great energy saving and up there the average temperature is not in your favour. We are stick building with 300mm I-joists in Kent, fitted the last stud today!