MikeSharp01

There are standard metal fixings from Simpson Strong tie for this have a look here: https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/i-joist-hole-support/317 for I-joist there must be an equivalent for plain joists - found this one stateside: https://joistrepair.com/pages/applications

Could they not get straight battens / get the battens straight?

Is that the skeleton of a great crested newt I see in the bottom left of the picture? Good clean cut that.

Looks like wonderful project, time won't be something you will have lots of but finding enough for a blog is rewarding and perhaps useful - wish I had / was done /doing one.

Take a look at Kytun they have quite a range but I struggled to get them in black recently.

Probably 'oven ready' like so many other plans - targets are one thing delivering them seems not to be an issue - the target is the target - I will only be in power for a short time, I will speak great words and leave it to the next bunch to make the hard choices, after all nobody will vote to be taxed to the hilt so we can de-carbonise will they?

Evil genius types tend not to have tiny minds - the clue is in the word genius, but I appreciate the sentiment...

Do you think some evil genius is going around coating crossbow bolts with JKW spores and then loosing them off at the planters of people they find tiresome.

I have been getting the flashing together for the wall cladding and Kytun seem to have stopped, they sold me the last of their stock and were not expecting any more, making / supplying the dry verge below in black .. Any thoughts? Source: https://www.kytun.com/p/slate-dry-verge-alu-t1-18mm-blue_black/c01bb accessed 17.07.2021

You can probably bury them reliably with type 1 provided that they are somewhat spread out so the stone can get around them, if they are left piled up the voids will take a long time to fill and you will get holes appearing for a long time. If you cannot spread them out you need to do a good amount of crushing to prevent voids.

Hmmm sounds odd - did they explain their reasoning? Also 6cm / Meter = 1 / 17 while 1:60 is between the BR 1:40 and BR 1:80

+1

Are you looking to max out the SAP, (100+) or manage the SAP alongside other things? By which I mean, for instance, if you want any cooling from the ASHP then specifying one that is reversible can damage your SAP but will allow cooling, most are reversible after purchase, so no cooling for max SAP but after you move in you may feel you want it!

Welcome to THE forum for people like us - look forward to following the build and you will find plenty of help and support here - enjoy.

That does not look good. Your photos capture the problems. That is the wrong dry verge for those tiles it is for higher profile tiles than your flat ones - some might also argue that the colour is wrong but your choice. The gap at the bottom between the dry verge and the facia is not acceptable this should have an uplift to match the kickup of the lower tiles. The roof light fitting feels wrong as I thought that the tiles should go over the uplift, which is there to provide a channel and stop wind blown rain getting under the tiles which as things stand is an open channel. You can be sure of the fitting requirements by downloading the manufacturers detailing sheets. You also need to check that the flashing kit used matches the tiles - given the dry verge I wonder if it is correct - again you can check this with the manufacturers recommendations. The leadwork at the top looks very wrinkled and also looks like it has not be patinated evenly. I would ask the builder to get the dry very refitted and adjust the facia, show you, SHOW YOU THE DRAWINGS FROM THE MANUFACTURER, that the roof lights and flashing have been fitted in compliance with the manufacturers recommendations and get them to smooth out the lead and confirm patination.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us!

Absolutely - loads of it came up on the beach here, Whitstable, the case has been found against them and sentencing is due shortly. Sadly not an answer to the question but does give you a hint on how water companies think and that appears to mean they pay little attention to the little people. I suspect you will need to get your treatment plant in and if you are then up for the fight fill out the form. Uphill implies a pumping station so need to factor that in!

Yes, I set myself the 1/2 slate limit but it won't fit around the windows. That looks good but not sure it is quite our style and as they are fibre cement slates you will see the internal of the tile although I do have some paint I can use to sort that,

I am just getting ready to fit the vertical cladding, fibre cement slates (300x600), and am trying to work how how best to lay them out. The structure is the structure so we cannot move the walls / windows - windows I could close up by up to 40mm if I was really up for it! So what I need to understand is what is going to look best and how small a sliver of tile is acceptable. The dimensions on the drawing are to the inner faces of the Kytun dry verges that form the edges on all the verticals so I have about 10mm play either end to still be inside the dry verge. In an ideal world I would like to run the slates from the tall dimension but I may need to shuffle things - is that usual? Any thoughts gratefully accepted.

Feels slightly confused - two types of insulation seem to be in the game plan, you will need to know the areas of each buildup, but essentially your main insulation is just 140mm thick and that bit gives you a U value of something like 0.28 { U = 1 divided by (Thickness in m [0.14 in your case] divided by K value [.04 for your insul / 0.035 for the stuff the architect specified] ) } To get the whole wall you need to work it out for the whole buildup. In which case it is 1 / Sum of (Thicknesses / K values) Here is a sample calc for you to look at and there are myriad calculators out there for you to play with. https://www.thenbs.com/knowledge/what-is-a-u-value-heat-loss-thermal-mass-and-online-calculators-explained PS the U value of the thermawall specified is 0.22 on its own without the rest of the build up!

Welcome to THE forum for people like us? Don't fret about asking questions we mostly do that no matter how experienced the member as there is always a lot to learn.

+1 to that I have used literally 1000s of these in our build!

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! Sounds like an interesting project.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us!

Need to seal the two items below the 1/2" BSP threaded tube fits into the flange mount fitting and projects through the tiled wall where shower head then fits. Need to get a very good seal as once done access will mean taking the tiles off. And thoughts on how best to seal?