MikeSharp01

So not that much really!

Pretty vacant. Makes sense.

Pretty what?

Wonder why it wants to drop on your bit of Cornwall - just south of Zennor.

Does that include the salt blocks. We looked into it for here, millstone manor, and it was £100s per year so we decided against it although I plumbed for it so if needed we could do it.

Is that on everything except drinking water and what do you think the annual running cost is for your usage?

That's a big one! I am not sure I would want a machine that big any where near my build, too much risk of damage.

Brilliant post - thanks for taking the time to share. We are the same building it all ourselves and I don't want to employ anybody if I can help it. I did not do the roof slating as I have no head for heights, I built the roof from the inside, but everything else is just me with occasional help when I need someone on the other end of things. So I would like to have installed the windows and it may come to that if I cannot get a team I can trust to get it dead right first time and so your advice is timely.

How did you find doing it yourself? We are still trying to get the windows sorted, very tough getting it right and deciding to self fit / not self fit. A few questions if you are up for them: Why did you go for self fit. EG When the VAT on the windows will be about the cost of the fit and so the whole package will be zero rated and supply only won't, getting it right will be down to the installers. How did you verify the sizing / fitting clearances? How did you find getting the cill details correct? I guess as you fitted then yourself you also did the air tightness work. (Our installers don't want anything to do with the air tightness work to the extent they do not want to fit the tapes to the frames before they fit them so they can go on the outer of the frame not take up frame space.) How did this go? How did you move the windows around the site to get them to the lifting points if working on your own?

Cripes were you spending £700 a mouth on energy.

Thanks both, @Mr Punter it is a bit unusual but it is what the architect specified and I am hopeful that it will all work, the idea of the external PUR is to break all the cold bridges. I will do a condensation risk analysis and decide.

Our build has a false peak, a section of the west catslide roof oversails the east roof and forms a peak. The whole lot sits on 300mm I beams and the roof is covered with OSB, breather membrane (housewrap), 40mm of PUR, counter battens, tyvek, battens and slates. The peak does not have the 40mm insulation on on the face but the oversail does have it. The breather wraps over the peak, runs down the face and continues down the east roof. The challenge is what to do with the void in the peak - it is not ventilated although it is loosely connected, the OSB is not perfectly fitted in the gaps, to the 300mm insulation between the I-beams, see sketch. I can either fill it with thermo floc or not and I am not sure what the issues are either way. I am leaning towards filling it but as it is about 4m3 if I don't need it I will leave it. Any thoughts more than welcome.

Although it has its downsides, and has not been fully thought through I cannot see this not being a 'thing' very soon. I know that our infrastructure, GridCo if you will, are working on it and think that in the advent of EV ownership on a grand scale some sort of load shifting will be required. There are all sorts of opportunities and loads of challenges. EG keeping track of who owns what aspects of the systems, so you top your car up on overnight rate to 95% you take 10% (points) out for your home during the day and then grid co takes out a further 10% (points), you now have a 75% charge and want to go for a drive, you cannot charge fast at home so you toddle down to your local 'filling station' and pop the missing 20% in, how much of the charge should be paid for by you? Yes 10% the other bit is owed to you by gridCo!

Looks to me like you need to go for air tightness on the outside pane of the on the left when closed - that should be possible but will depend on the window design - perhaps something like sketch

Last time I looked 0.9mm was about a mm. Still, yesterday I lost 3 microns - took me all day with an inchworm, couple of nanometers at a time, to get it back.

I use a lazer!

Yes - they were left out together to stabilise, maybe one absorbed more sun than the other.

Get decent class 1 tapes and work with them. Here are two of mine, about 1mm out over 8m, against a non class one tape.

Guess the Sunamp must know when it is full! So you only need to measure outflow of energy and use that to determine top up regime / requirement.

Actually not heard you can get this with a normal hot water tank does Sunamp actually know how much is left? Interesting problem none the less. So you would need to know how much flow you had taken through and the temperature of it as it went through, it would still be somewhat error prone depending upon accuracy / resolution of the measuring devices.

If the installer is FENSA registered then they should be checking that the install meets the regs as they have their registration to consider, might be worth a lookup.

Very interesting read, not all the way yet but you have spotted the vampire warming load issue (P6) which we have been discussing / investigating here: others will be interested in your observations / highlighting of the issue.

Brilliant - Just goes to show what can be done if you put your mind to it - human ingenuity at its best!

Looking good though - progress one block at a time.

So the air round the rods has to be going slow enough not to pick up the particles / accelerate them so much that they miss the bucket and still get the total air flow needed through.