MikeSharp01

Looks great and, in the end good news on the Windows.

Makes perfect sense when you put it that way. Making a small DC-DC converter would be no mean feat. Alternatively just get a cluster of small LEDS and drop the voltage with them in series - we did this with PWM brightness on roadside type approved LED vms signs in the 1990s worked a treat. Not one LED failed in 10 years of operation.

Make your own by popping down to Maplins, getting an ultrabright white LED, work out a suitable resistor, unsolder the base of that bulb to remove the glass and fit the LED and resistor onto / into the holder - bingo.

How significantly?

All the better to receive notifications from buildhub. (Sent from my gigabit connection - 512Kbps is gigabit/annum isn't it, inside the M25 - if they can't deliver it here - where I believe the retired MD of a BT company lives in the village, I am not sure what message it sends to the rest of the country. We have been offered it - £8k per household. I will stick with my wet string connection.)

Ah - now it all makes so much more sense.

Welcome to THE forum. We went a good way down the road with GBS on our build. In the end they were a bit to 'chunky' but the price wss good and the service they gave through design and the competitive quote process was excellent.

Sorry - have to say it - something of an anticlimax - which is not an excuse for anything further from the group norm - whatever that is.

Got this far and still have not clicked the link - self control or what - I will await pulling the duvet over my head later and find out what it is all about - great day.

Have an answer for you @Russell griffiths but thought I would keep it to myself until my curious is satiated over the bad language post. No - only joking - Look for 3D game environment building apps these are free and most allow you to fit / project materials on surfaces. Have a look here: http://mashable.com/2008/07/10/tools-for-3d-creation/#o68NrEunJuqu

Planners are just human but in the end the only way to find out is give them a call, or just stick it on an NMA form and wait for them to reject it or not.

+1 it is after all just a house not an oil refinery!

Had to read all this to find that the whole reason for reading it does not yet exist! Surreal or what

You might simplfy life a bit by removing the soil pipe through the roof and using an Air Admittance Valve inside the building if acceptable to Building Control.

Welcome to THE forum @Joss we are in Kent - building in Whitstable. If you can joining the two insulation sections is always a good move - no cold bridges. Need a sketch to make full sense of the internal (I assume) insulation on the back of the Ashlar walls - how good is the finish on these wall - are you in danger of loosing a great dressed stone feature?

+ a little joist above the door with a block an tackle to lift the flour sacks up to the roof space.

I still feel it is to, all intents and purposes, an open loop because the party will be over before the slab detects the party people but they will have been well cooked in their own body heat - I think Nyquist would have had something to say about this whole problem - well the aliasing and sampling bit anyway. This heating issue is one we all have, or will get it once the house is finished. Without an air temperature sensor, after all the actual thing you are trying to control, you won't be able to bring any third party system into operation to help with the rapid rise in air temperature - EG pull the MVHR into summer bypass & boost mode to deal with the at least the worst of the air temperature rise while the slab catches on. Even then you will need a watchdog on your system to ensure that the heat being removed by the MVHR, and unceremoniously dumped out of the vent, is not being made by a runaway UFH. Lovely and complicated!

I guess if everything is perfect then your logic feels sound, other than it is rather an open loop - suppose you have a party and fifty people turn up? So it also look to me like you have answered your own question with a yes, its just where the control is happening that is the crucial point I suspect.

Tend to agree on the EU but not sure if some people in the UK don't hope for a bonfire of regulation post Brexit. Agree we mat be taking to US centric a view though.

Welcome to THE forum David. Always need advice round here on H&S stuff so that will be useful - the buildhub tends to be a self help group and advertising directly is frowned upon but contributing is not. Lets hope the business flies all the same - a new venture is always a sweet / sour experience but generally what does not kill you makes you stonger - back to H&S then, sorry.

The US regulator has shifted the status of regulation around the internet out of neutral. This has the potential of profound implications I am not sure I can see any upsides for the 'little people' - somebody has said that regulating the internet, so keeping it neutral, is on a par with regulating water quality and Tim Berners Lee thinks thus: Q: Are there any internet-related laws in the United States or the UK that you think need to be scrapped? A: My concern is in America maybe, having been in a leading position really on the internet for a long time that with (the loss of) net neutrality it will…not really be an open internet. I talked a good bit to start-ups in Washington a couple days ago, and they were concerned that if the net neutrality goes away they will…have to negotiate it [their service] and have it unblocked by each ISP (Internet Service Provider). That will be impossible and very transient. Whereas if they had started their service in the UK or Europe…you just launch a new website. And you don’t have to worry about it being blocked by different ISPs. Their Obama-era regulations – rules about net neutrality – were very valuable in the U.S. and we should try to preserve them. (Source: HERE , 15.12.2017) I wonder how the hub feels about it?

As I don't need hundreds I will get the Farnell jobie and have a play with it. I can use my pico scope and laptop to log it and wait for a frosty day.

I am having a 'discussion' with our BR supplier about what sign offs are included, what I can certify myself to their satisfaction and what I have to seek elsewhere. I guess its about having all the paperwork completed before sign off. I have my list but I am not sure it is complete so thought I would put it out there by way of checking: Windows install - so do not need installation by FENSA certified team. Electrical install - so I do not need electrical sign off by electrician (as it happens I will get this done by my brother-in-law) but for completeness it is included here. Gas install - don't think this is ever in the BR peoples scope as needs gas safe qualification. Oil fueled install - I don't have one but it is here for completeness. Solid fuel install - I don't have one but it is here for completeness. Pressure vessel (UVC etc) install - so I don't need a plumber to sign it off. Water install from meter. - not sure there are any regs here but just in case. Sewerage connection - so I don't need involve the water company, other than inform them. Waste water and general plumbing, flows & trap sucking ect - always assumed this was part of the sign off by BR anyway but could be wrong! Ventilation system balance - so I can do it myself. Ventilation system compliance - always assumed this was part of the sign off by BR anyway but could be wrong! Air tightness - So, assuming I can trace the pressure and airflow sensors to national standard, I don't need a third party to do this. Sound insulation - not sure even how to test this but can't be rocket science, can it? So I don't need a specialist again. CO2 Energy Performance certificate - I wanted to do these but as I needed the pre-build one quickly I have already paid for this and the final one. Water use certificate - I wanted to do these but as I needed the pre-build one quickly I have already paid for this and the final one. What have I missed - probably something glaring!

Yes the Maloo is not melow and the stag - provided it keeps going is far cooler!

PAD stone is only needed if the load is not supportable on the material as it is, your SE will probably have specified a solution for this (or should have) which may be just brick work or a pad stone - if you have no calculations for the beam's loading on the bricks it would make sense to get it checked, particularly if you are going to move it althoguh it looks about right to my eye, and counting brlocks its 7.5 blocks wide which is 3.75 blocks to the centre and it looks about there to me.