MikeSharp01

How does that work then? You would need planning permission to undo a planning permission.

Which did you choose and is it wet / freeze proof?

Welcome to THE forum for self builders, be a pest we all are in our way but its a very collegiate pestilence and if you were building a tropical hot house you could do worse than start from where you are but it seems you have some good ideas and you know what / where the challenges are.

Looking really good - love the 3D mural.

Planning conditions dont have an infinite life IIRC, if they were then double glazing would be a problem as the original design had single glazing. So just lay out the splays and once you build and get Building control sign off perhaps you need not worry about what happens on the land. No one is entitled to a view after all. Also right of use is not the same as ownership so once you have been driving over a strip for a given period you gain the right to continue I believe.

Hmmm .. is there not a membrane that can cope with being wet & then frozen without loss of waterproofing? I must admit I had not come across this issue before so good to learn about it so I can avoid it.

Why are BC insisting on a ducted version? Sounds liken an odd request.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like minded individuals. Look forward to hearing more about your project. I envy stone masons as the skills they have are amazing and they create such permenance - needless to say I dont have your head for hieghts.

Sorry forgot the emoji it was a joke ? as in 100mm lumps of stone rather than 100mm layer of 10mm pea shingle.

Cripes 100mm gravel sounds like something out of the flint stones any left over would make a great rockery.

Agreed but both were at the same temperature here and they should expand and shrink almost the same as they are the same material and from the same manufacturer! I will of course have the slight challenge of what to check them against that is not itself affected by the heat.

Trouble is 1m is not really enough @jack has the right idea with the outside length - but how did they know their length was correct, However the issue is not an absolute one as unless you have access to lab conditions you are unlikely to be able to get good enough conditions to reference measure within 0.5 mm over distances greater than several meters.

Yes its normally used for setting out the croquet lawm at millstone manor. I have it here because its 50m amd allows me to do quick and, as you can see, dirty measurements over the full depth of the site.

I wish I had paid more attention in Metrology lectures way back in the 70s! So which of these is a class 1 tape then? Actually 2 of them are class one yet they do not agree over 8m at any rate. The third is a cheap plastic tape and it clearly under reads the other two - the essential question is which one is correct? The yellow one is my everyday tape but only 8m long as you can see. The thin white one is 20m but still class 1. The other cost me £7 in wicks a fews years back. So as a rule they are pretty useless when measuring is shared across different tapes. Conclusion - using 1 tape for everything so that all the errors will be consistent at least.

Dont forget that Ratty had a boat.

That link points at a 98 strips 12" long so quite a bit of caulk for £26.

Yep this will allow you yo keep warm in the upcoming ice age of course there might not be any power generation by then. Naturally ensuring you have a 10Kw supply will allow you to run on hell of a workshop / model railway / tanning salon / steel works / sound system / radio station in there until the time comes.

Yes it has perforations.

True if any water gets in there. If the breather membrane is outside it I am not sure how water can get there and any water that does will be dried out by the permiability of the structure will it not. As ever its the little details that frustrate. In the traditional case can water not get along between the two membranes if any splashes up there in a storm.

It is 40mm insulation but there 300mm on the inside and although it fixes to the 300mm sole plate that is split by 50mm of insulation ( the greeny / yellow lump) so it is well protected cold bridge wise. I do have a condensation worry but I figured that I could expect the whole mass of the trim to move slowley temp wise but I will review it again.

Thanks that is the traditional approach but I am not sure why - can you perhaps explain?

I need to now tidy up the DPM (Violet line) / DPC (Green line) on the outside of our frame. As I see it I have two options, see picture. I prefer the first (left hand) option as any splashing off the ground cannot get into the DPM/DPC as it is not accessible. Option 2 (right hand) feels more traditional but I am not sure it is as sound as the first in that the there seems to be a moisture path, by capillary action, between the two DPM/DPC layers. Any thoughts gratefully accepted as ever.

Quad glazed?

We didnt duct the ASHP pipes through the slab, felt like phaff, but decided to run them through and along inside the walls, timber I joists, so the insulation in the walls insulates the pipes.

And your definition of 'good' is....?