MikeSharp01

Yep this link sort of explains - well the PDF does. https://www.promat.co.uk/en/products/promaseal-expansion-joint

How thick is the i strip and is it encased in plastic. They expand a good deal. Iirc the size of the gap and the width of the seal are controlled by the fire rating. The smaller you get the gap the longer the rating for a given width broadly, a few mm should not be a problem.

Yep interesting link - as you imply money for old rope.

Anything to stop you topping up the collecting tank from the main would cut out the dual pipework? You could break the direct connection by having a valve that dumps mains water into the gutter although that might fall foul, pardon the pun, of a hose pipe ban.

Yep, must have several 1000 about the house, do you remember these? Probably got a few of these about the place as well.... (Pic source: http://www.columbia.edu/cu/computinghistory/media.html )

I know this but the standard rack is also very deep, although I agree you can get them with less depth, as they want to accomodate all the gubins behind and in front if the devices and then add a door. I have several shoe stands that are more than wide and deep enough for the job.

Don't go 19" rack it is far to big this switch has 26 ports, includes PoE, and is only 8" deep so with 4" of cable room out front you need no more than 1' depth. If you are up for it you could terminate all your cat5/6 cables to a plug and then do away with the patch panel as well but that is relatively tedious. However before you go putting loads of CAT6 everywhere you might like to wonder how it is that 200 students can be happily watching youtube in the refectory (never happens in lectures you understand) in a world without wires using the amazing eduroam!

Once set up a 5m length should take around 60 seconds through a table saw. Around 80mm per second through the saw. At 600mm verticle centers that length is more than 2 m2 of wall.

I wonder how many of them get issued a year? Bet most people don't even realise there are conditions on their home especially if they are a few owners down the line from the planning permission.

How does that work then? You would need planning permission to undo a planning permission.

Which did you choose and is it wet / freeze proof?

Welcome to THE forum for self builders, be a pest we all are in our way but its a very collegiate pestilence and if you were building a tropical hot house you could do worse than start from where you are but it seems you have some good ideas and you know what / where the challenges are.

Looking really good - love the 3D mural.

Planning conditions dont have an infinite life IIRC, if they were then double glazing would be a problem as the original design had single glazing. So just lay out the splays and once you build and get Building control sign off perhaps you need not worry about what happens on the land. No one is entitled to a view after all. Also right of use is not the same as ownership so once you have been driving over a strip for a given period you gain the right to continue I believe.

Hmmm .. is there not a membrane that can cope with being wet & then frozen without loss of waterproofing? I must admit I had not come across this issue before so good to learn about it so I can avoid it.

Why are BC insisting on a ducted version? Sounds liken an odd request.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like minded individuals. Look forward to hearing more about your project. I envy stone masons as the skills they have are amazing and they create such permenance - needless to say I dont have your head for hieghts.

Sorry forgot the emoji it was a joke ? as in 100mm lumps of stone rather than 100mm layer of 10mm pea shingle.

Cripes 100mm gravel sounds like something out of the flint stones any left over would make a great rockery.

Agreed but both were at the same temperature here and they should expand and shrink almost the same as they are the same material and from the same manufacturer! I will of course have the slight challenge of what to check them against that is not itself affected by the heat.

Trouble is 1m is not really enough @jack has the right idea with the outside length - but how did they know their length was correct, However the issue is not an absolute one as unless you have access to lab conditions you are unlikely to be able to get good enough conditions to reference measure within 0.5 mm over distances greater than several meters.

Yes its normally used for setting out the croquet lawm at millstone manor. I have it here because its 50m amd allows me to do quick and, as you can see, dirty measurements over the full depth of the site.

I wish I had paid more attention in Metrology lectures way back in the 70s! So which of these is a class 1 tape then? Actually 2 of them are class one yet they do not agree over 8m at any rate. The third is a cheap plastic tape and it clearly under reads the other two - the essential question is which one is correct? The yellow one is my everyday tape but only 8m long as you can see. The thin white one is 20m but still class 1. The other cost me £7 in wicks a fews years back. So as a rule they are pretty useless when measuring is shared across different tapes. Conclusion - using 1 tape for everything so that all the errors will be consistent at least.

Dont forget that Ratty had a boat.

That link points at a 98 strips 12" long so quite a bit of caulk for £26.