MikeSharp01

Is there heat anywhere in any of those pipes?

If you are having an ASHP connect it direct to the UFH - if you get a reversible one you can cool the floors in the summer! You dont' need a battery or a buffer tank, although some have them but you do need to modulate the ASHP output so you need an inverter controlled one or you wont be able to tune for optimum COP.

We were concerned about commercial matters getting mixed up with the not for profit forum. I will dig out the thread and see what we said.

We have looked at this but it soon spiralled into quite a complex admin system. Given that each of us, 4000 members, is spending a couple of hundred K we are a big market.

Yes but grip the lower section above the tube with mole grips so you don't twist the pipe / damage the joint if the screws are very tight.

Welcome to THE forum.

I notice that the larger diggers now have rails round the engine housing so you can clamber over them in safety without a fall arrestor. Also worth noting that although it all feels like something of a pain the injury and death rates on construction sites is massively less per 100,000 workers than in the states so it must be doing some good. Wonder if this difference will figure in trade negotiations?

Interesting post. Taking the big picture view and using your 90% efficiency there are two issues. 1. The environment - everything we can do to conserve energy is going to be a help and if we pay directly now or indirectly later is common on both sides of the equation (and you can improve the 'now' situation using standard accounting approaches). @SteamyTea can probably do ths sums on the energy required to manufacture the MVHR but your solution has a tec solution as well for the most part again creating a common factor albeit perhaps of different quantums. 2. While I appreciate your view that you don't save much it is clear that this is probably due to more factors than your air tightness and, I hope we can agree that air tighness is not, draftproofing but also the amount of the losses due to the difference between the two and the effects of cold bridges etc taking heat you pay for and giving it to the environment for free. Heat which never sees the MVHR. I am confident that a few minutes with a package like Therm and section drawings of your property will show you how the heat is leaving the house without reference to the MVHR. All this said you may be right although I feel it is situation specific.

Do we need to make it longer?

Size of overal plot in our case. I guess it might make sense to use the build m2 but there are costs to the landscaping etc. Doing it on build size for our build and we get £700 ish / m2

Just worked out our plots land cost - in Whitstable at around £400 per m2.

Land we assume?

Looking great - bit away for us inspiring none the less.

I did all mine, 12mm, with a manual pipe bender and a new 120mm former. Not a problem to bend or to cut with long handle cutters and or the grinderette.

If you can keep it dry - you are right everything is in the detailing, and you don't set fire to it then it should last 100 years plus. Timber buildings can last 100s of years and many have.

Mean Trump or Johnson Nope = "stubbornly refusing to change one's opinion or course of action" I was using the latter meaning in that it, natural wood, can absolutely be relied upon to warp / twist / shrink / bend constantly until you get it in a controlled environment. You have to admire chippy types who understand the nature of wood to such an extent that they can cope with this as I find it frustrating.

Two reasons. Firstly I have always found natural timber very obdurate in that it never stays where you put it. It struck me that engineered timber got round this. Secondly I could not achieve the open spans we wanted in normal timber unless I wanted to go for very large sections.

We are doing it with I joists and I am not a time served chippy so it should be a breeze for someone who is.

Hard to see it all on a phone - looks good like the low wall betwern dinning area and sitting room. My comment is about the angled zone at the end of the kitchen with the window. I wonder if it is really useful and the shape feels awkward although I guess it is a feature and we don't all want to live in square buildings, maybe look at squaring it off and making it the same depth as the 1st floor to reduce complexity.

Good question - @Nebyou might find it valuable to see if you can get work that will leverage your interest there and add value at the end of your degree in terms of career. This can take may forms from just having it on your CV up to to giving you insights into your industry and enabling / supporting your ability to communicate widely across it and have understanding of people who you now work with from your graduate role. Win - win.

You are right concrete adds much more pressure but its all down to how well the external face is protected along with the the depth of water behind it and I did hedge a bit with 'might'.

On our build for the garden room I created two holes in the DPM, at the lowest points, to let the water out into the land drain and then sealed them up very carefully with some fearsome double sided mastic tape before we put the concrete in with full BC approval. We didn't need it for the main build as it didn't rain in the final weeks and we had a deep pocket we could pump out and then bale.

If it a passive raft you will need to keep the thing drained or you will end up with a swimming pool and it may well force the sides out.

The lower one is 10%+ better than the higher one.. So provided it is not 10% more expensive it would, all other things being equal - which they often aren't, be a better bet, if more than 10% more expensive the payback steps out a bit.

Yes it looks like a standard strip I think you can get from Screwfix.